Jump to content

Damien Symonds

Administrator
  • Posts

    204,739
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3,151

Everything posted by Damien Symonds

  1. This is a really tricky job. Take your time with it. I can't wait to hear about your progress.
  2. It's not easy, that's for sure. I'll show you the file, then try to explain the steps ... Download the PSD The strategy is to fix the easier (camera right) eye first, then copy that over to the other one. So first, I duplicated the Background layer and liquified the wayward lash down. Then added a mask to that layer to meld it in as best as possible. Then added the two layers of the Handyman Method, and very patiently worked to put the natural eye crease back in, and generally make everything look plausible. This took ages, don't rush it. Once I was completely happy with that eye, I added a new combined layer above all the other layers, by hitting Ctrl Alt Shift E. Then I flipped that layer horizontally, and converted it to a Smart Object. Then rotated and moved it until it roughly lined up where I wanted it. Then added a mask, and masked it in. That copied section was a bit too dark, so I clipped the Levels layer to modify it a bit.
  3. Bummer. What works for one is unlikely to work for all the others. Anyway, how does this look?
  4. That's great, thanks. Roughly how many photos do you have to fix with this problem? Oh crap, I just noticed a much worse problem than eyelashes. Please follow this troubleshooter all the way to the end.
  5. Sorry to be a stickler for this, but I really need the 100% crop exactly per the instructions. So I can be sure I'm seeing pixel for pixel.
  6. Hi Miranda, may I see a 100% crop so I can see the problem up close?
  7. Ok, so these are the instructions you're following? Including completely exhausting the troubleshooting section?
  8. Also, you've previously mentioned a new Mac. Will that be for editing?
  9. Ok, great. Remind me which Spyder you have? Oh, and what make/model of screen?
  10. This is really vital. We can't move forward until we have an answer to this. Either something is different recently, or nothing is different and your prints have always been dark and cool. Which is it?
  11. I need clarification on this. Are you saying your screen has changed recently, or not?
  12. Has anything changed with your computer recently? New hard drive, new graphics card, new screen, anything like that?
  13. Let's not do anything crazy just because of one recent print batch. Do you have any of the older prints still around? If they still compare to the screen the way they always did, we can assume this was just a bad print batch, and you can legitimately demand a reprint. However, if the screen is now wildly different from the older prints as well, it's a different matter.
  14. Hi Rochelle, No, even though the web is the interface for this particular procedure, the files aren't "for web", as such. They're for print. So you would save them as high quality jpegs (suggest level 10) using "Save As" in the usual way. Or Image Processor. I urge you not to wait any longer to take the Sharpening Class. You'll cry real tears when you see how much better your printed stuff could have been.
  15. Because it's least disruptive to the tonal range capabilities of the screen. In short, it reduces the risk of banding. Forcing an artificial white point can induce the risk of banding. On some screens it's not a problem, but on others it really can be a problem.
  16. Let's not worry about that until the raw processing is done. Can you post in the Raw Class for me?
×
×
  • Create New...