Copied and flipped the other eye, and rotated it into place. Then masked it.
Then added a dodge and burn layer to make the shadowing look (hopefully) realistic.
Have you read these?
I beg you to consider my Layers & Masks Class. It's very cheap, and very comprehensive, and will teach you everything you need to know about this.
No, no, no, it's vitally important to NOT use soft-proofing in Photoshop at this stage, while you're testing labs. Leave it alone.
http://www.damiensymonds.net/2014/07/proof-setup-working-cmyk-not-really.html
Great! That's good news.
Darn. That's really bad news. As you've discovered, the Munki doesn't give you any latitude on the red-green axis. It's one place where the SpyderElite is superior the X-Rites.
You might need to fiddle manually. However, I wouldn't do so until you've had the same photos printed at another lab.
Sure, just add a Hue/Saturation layer and go to "Greens". Then choose the little white eyedropper from the Hue/Sat panel, and click on some prominent green in your photo.
Then it's merely a matter of fiddling with the three sliders to your (grotesque) taste. +40/+40/+65 looks completely hideous, so it's probably exactly what you want.