Damien Symonds

I've heard good things about Digital Works, yes. http://www.damiensymonds.net/lab-reviews

Great. The instructions will guide you through choosing the right setting.

Usually "Standard" is pretty good on those screens. Which calibrator do you have?

If you simply type "ears" in the search bar on my site, it should come up.

Personally, I tend to use my mouse with Bridge anyway, because I find a mouse easier to right-click with.

I'm so sorry, that's a bit out of my league

Oh, yay! I doubt it What's it doing?

I do intend to write a Channel Mixer class, yes. But it's not imminent. I'll be lynched if the Skin Class isn't the next one I write.

Yes, definitely worth trying.

Thanks. In Control Panel\All Control Panel Items\Display\Screen Resolution which screen is the primary (1) display?

Hi Lisa, may I see it close up?

I don't know the answer either, but I urge you not to use a brush for this purpose. Always use the custom shape tool, and find the butterfly in there.

And just so I'm perfectly straight with all this ... When your desktop monitor isn't plugged in, and you're using your laptop screen, all three programs (Bridge, ACR and Photoshop) look the same. Am I right so far? What about when the desktop monitor is plugged in? Do all three programs still look the same on the laptop screen? Or does the problem of difference suddenly appear? The problem of difference is evident on the desktop screen whenever it's plugged in. Yes?

That's very comon. So, which one matches your pro lab prints?

I urge you to consider renewing the Raw Class. The new updated information is SO much more comprehensive than before.

The trick is to put the layer in a group, then add a mask to the group: Does that make sense? That way, you keep the gradient untouched, and do your brush work separately. In some cases, it's better to do the brush work on the layer mask, and the gradient on the group mask. The more you play with this method, the more you'll develop the instinct for what's best.

No, there is a clever trick, but it's not that. Give me a minute, I'll show you ...

Ok, this is really promising. I'm confident that once you have a permanent good light solution for your room, you'll love the results.

Yes, good point. Calibration is a vital aspect of colour questions like this.

Vibrance (and Saturation) don't ever change colour. They just exaggerate what's there. If you're using Vibrance and seeing this problem, it means your white balance is wrong. PLEASE consider the Raw Class. It will change your life, I promise.

Well, replace the bulbs with brighter whiter ones, I assume.

Yes, that's right. But then you said that your prints look different in natural light to what they do in your room light. That means your room light isn't good enough.

Your room has to BE natural light. Or the equivalent of natural light, that is. So this seems that your room is not well lit after all?

No, that's utter BS. No way does it match your prints with the brightness way up.

Then your screen will be much too bright, yes?