Damien Symonds

Yes, it's always been my feeling that the X-Rites are a bit easier to use than the Spyders.

Other people have reported this too. I've never been able to figure out why it does that to some people, I'm sorry. Ultimately, this is what matters. I'm glad you got a better result.

Yeah, maybe that's so. How many prints are you comparing in total? Also, how's the light in your room?

Any luck?

Sorry to harp on about this, but do you have this turned on?

Yes, they've always jumped. Relax.

No, it's right, but you didn't actually mention that you'd done it?

Hang on, did you add the levels layer over the top of all the other layers in the PSD, and check that way?

No, that's correct. Relax.

That should be high enough not to cause change. How were you checking for clipping?

You need to do this as soon as you launch the software. Don't wait until you get all the way to the placing-the-calibrator part.

Can you tell me the exact filename of the file, including the extension?

I'm sorry Eddie, this all starts with raw processing. You'll have to wait.

What quality level did you save the jpeg at?

This is all that matters. Numbers are meaningless. I think it looks good too.

These pieces look obviously stretched. I think it would look better if they looked like real puzzle piece shapes. And yes, the pen tool.

This is ridiculous. You're WAY off track here. Tell me about your room lighting, darn it.

How does it look to you?

Just the Patch Tool. It should be the work of seconds.

Please read the guidelines for this kind of question.

This might be a suitable candidate for Frequency Separation, though I'm not certain. Is it one of the things you've tried?

Do you have the physical photo in your possession? And if so, did you scan it yourself?

How did recalibration go?

6500K is correct. Tell me about your room lighting. Eizo's "printing" setting is literally for printing. That is, the commercial offset printing industry. NOT for photography.