Damien Symonds

Gosh I love this forum. I was just coming back here to type "Can you tell me whether you have Photoshop or Elements?" (old habits die hard) but I don't need to! It's right there in the sidebar! Woohoo!

Have you tried prints from a second lab, just to be sure?

Do you already own the Spyder3Elite? If so, definitely try it and see. If you're thinking about buying a used Spyder3Elite, I'd be very wary.

Other people have been reporting this too. Can you try again now?

Hey, cool, I didn't know you could tag either!!! @Crystal Felton @Lara Crystal, from my understanding, Scrubby Zoom is closely tied to your graphics processor. If it's suddenly stopped working, that would seem to suggest your graphics card needs a driver update, or something like that.

Oh, I'm jealous!!!! I love my Epson V700. You'll love yours.

Hi Cath, try this: A levels layer, with the following values for the sliders: RGB channel: 0/1.25/240 Red channel: 0/1.20/255 Blue channel: 0/0.95/255 Then mask to the hand.

Hi Jodi, can you recall what Quality Level you chose when saving this jpeg file?

Gee, warmer than Millers? That's really concerning. Millers are already too warm, compared to the international colour standards. Do Musea give any advice about calibration targets on their website? I have to admit I've never heard of Musea before. By the way, please don't use soft-proofing when comparing prints for the purpose of assessing calibration.

Hi Alex, can you fill this out for me? And can you tell me a bit more about the bad behaviour? Do you mean they don't work, or only sometimes?

Well, if it happens again, let me know right away.

Hi Sarah, may I see your whole screen in the screenshot?

Hi Sue, yes, a properly clean-processed photo needs both good raw processing, and good Photoshop editing. Is it as simple as ... ... maybe, maybe not. Every photo is different. Some need a little, some need a lot. I'm not sure what you meant by this: What "I want" is for your photos to be the best they can be.

Was that it? I just realised that the relevant FAQ is actually in the "Photoshop help" section. I'm going to move your post there.

Sorry, what do you mean by "working in car only"?

Whenever somebody posts a question like this, I always hope that they have some kind of poorly-spec'd computer, so we can happily blame that. But in this case, your computer is plenty powerful, so this is most likely an El Capitan problem, sadly Are you noticing issues with Photoshop too?

Hi Sarah, you've chopped off the important bits of your screenshot, unfortunately. Usually this happens if your swatch (at the bottom of the toolbar) isn't exactly black. Press D then X to make sure it is. By the way, you have the dubious honour of being the first person to have asked a question which is already covered in the FAQs on this new forum

Can you fill this out for us?

I should have also added that you'll need to aggressively brighten the midtones of this photo, won't you, in order for it to look plausible on the white background. And heck, maybe desaturate it a little too.

I find the Shift key faster than the Pen Tool (although I am quite fast with the Pen Tool, because of my prepress background). Simply add a white Solid Color layer, invert its mask, then zoom in and paint around the outside of the bottle, utilising the Shift key as you go.

Some of the extra control you get can't actually be utilised on a laptop anyway. So it sounds like you might be ok with the mid-tier one?

Great! So the technical answer to your question is: The file should be 12000 x 9000 pixels.

Your first step is to find out what resolution the lab require/recommend. Most are 300ppi, but some differ.

Hi cooleybabe, you have the honour of the first ever post on the new forum! Yes, 4791x3194 is easily big enough to print at 40x30, or even larger, as long as the focus is good. But you must still upsize and sharpen. You can't just send that file to the lab and expect it to turn out great. You have to crop to the exact size and resolution required, then sharpen appropriately.

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