Brian

Alright. Who is trying to sell you this computer? Dell or a local shop? For this type of computer, it's much better suited for an office application, like a check-in desk at your Doctor's Office. It is not an editing machine or at least the one you are after. Before you buy anything, we need to figure out what your budget is. There are multiple components that determine speed, and the truth is, you get what you pay for. If you have a low-quality (slow) motherboard that creates a bottleneck, then it makes no difference if you have 32GB of RAM and a 7200RPM HD. As far as PC CC, I use the LR / PS that stays on my computer and who "Phone's Home" to the Adobe Mothership. At this point in the game, it's much better to get a computer with Windows 10 than one with Windows 7. Windows 7 is at the end-of-life and will no longer be updated on Jan 7, 2020. So with us approaching 2019, I'd say you are going to have to get Windows 10 sooner or later. Might as well jump in now. If you want Photoshop and Lightroom to load quickly, you will need a SSD drive and a fast motherboard to accomplish this. I just got a new fancy iMac, yes I can hear Damien cringing all the way over on the other side of the planet, but if I click on the PS icon on the deskbar, it loads in about 3-4 seconds. Of course, I'm not opening any files, just Photoshop. Let me see what happens when I load a file from my EHD... OK, still took about 3 seconds. Of course I have a fast 7200 RPM EHD connected via Thunderbolt 3 with an upgraded fancy 27" 2017 iMac. I'm off to get dinner. Be back soon. Let me know how much you want to spend, because at this point, I think you are wasting money.

You are talking about two different things. Coping / Moving Raw files back and forth is fine. Saving and opening your .PSD files is fine. Saving jpegs, reopening Jpegs, re-editing and then saving them, THAT can cause loss of quality. Honestly, you should trash your jpegs if you shoot Raw. Leave the .psd master files alone and save / export them as needed. Do the following: Import your .cr2 (Raw) files to your laptop to a "Current Project / Client Name" folder. If you have more than one card, create a sub-folder for each card. CF1, CF2, SD1, etc. Save the .psd files in a new sub-folder under the current project folder. I usually call mine "Edits" or "PSD files." Create a another folder called JPEG. Under that folder, create a sub-folder called "To Client" or "To Facebook," "To Instagram," whatever. This is where you store your JPEG files. Finish your project, deliver the images to the client, then delete the JPEG folder. Move the Current Project Folder that contains the .cr2 files / .psd files to your EHD. Keep in mind that it's better to copy and paste rather than cut and paste. If something were to go wrong during transfer, you could always cancel / start-over when copying. If you "cut" and paste and something bad were to happen, you could lose files. Yes, I have personally experienced this. Not fun. I never "Cut" anymore when moving something important, I always copy then paste. The neat part is, once you create your master .psd files, you can use Image Processor to open each .psd file, have it run a resizing action for FB / IG, etc. and then have it automatically save them into each JPEG sub-folder. I'm sure Damien has a better way, but this is how I do it.

Yes. It depends on how fast the EHD is, how full it is AND the interface that the EHD is using. If you have a full EHD, that's only 5400RPM and is using a USB 2.0 port...you are going to be waiting for things to load. That said, it looks like your laptop has a few USB 3.0 ports. It might be easier and cheaper to get a larger EHD, that's faster. You will need an external hard drive that's at least a 7200RPM model with USB 3.0, OR an external SSD with a USB 3.0 interface. Of course, SSD will be the fastest, but at a higher price-point per megabyte. The next question that I will get asked at this point is what EHD do I recommend. The truth is, they all suck. I like Western Digital's stuff over Seagate, but both are pretty equal these days quality-wise. I personally own G-Drives and they work really well, but tend to be expensive. This Sandisk SSD 1TB drive caught my eye, but it's only 1TB. Here is a USB 3.0 4TB G-Drive, that will need to be re-partitioned as a GPT disk and formatted as NTFS drive for use with a Windows computer. (It comes Mac formatted.)

I don't like the Dell Inspiron line. Either Desktops or Laptops. I'd go with the ASUS ROG laptop that you linked to. I also usually recommend the Dell Displays, as they seem to be easy to calibrate. I also like the Matte Screen and it's an IPS display. So that Dell TD5f1 is the one I'd go with. BenQ monitors can be a bit of a PITA.

Current Min Specs: Intel i7 or i9 16GB RAM / 32GB Preferred 500GB Main HD / 1TB Hard Drive Preferred A Dedicated Video Card with its own video memory. 4GB is fine, one that contains 8GB is better. Windows 10 / Windows 10 Pro Preferred The problem is going to be price. As Tariffs hit on devices being imported from China, and those costs are being transferred to consumers. I usually recommend the Dell XPS Desktop line, as they are pretty easy to get, but that $800 price point will be an issue. It might have to expand to $1000 or so. Here is a Dell XPS 8930 for $939.99. We would need to upgrade the RAM, but 8GB could get you started. You would also need a DisplayPort cable, which connects your monitor to the newer display ports on the back of the computer. Unfortunately, Monoprice is out of stock on the 6 foot cables, but should have them at the end of October. We could also go from DisplayPort to DVI-D, but before we get ahead of ourselves, we should pick the computer first, then get the correct cable. Either way we do not want to use a Traditional 15-pin VGA D-Sub connector / cable.

Free? No. I can recommend one, though. It’s called Gemini from MacPaw. Same company that makes Clean My Mac. It’s $13.96 for a single Mac License. https://macpaw.com/gemini So for the cost of an average Pizza, you can get a program that you are looking for.

The radioactive ones are lenses from like the 1950’s / 1960’s and even up to the middle 1970’s. If this was a modern lens, it’s shouldn't be an issue. There is a list floating around of Radioactive Lenses. One of the original Nikon 35mm f/1.4 lenses, the AIS version, way before AF-D and AF-S contained Thorium Elements, but that seems to be the one of the few. Kodak has a bunch of radioactive lenses. If it’s the AF “D” version, made from 1993 to present, you are fine. Like I said, look at the lens’ ID plate.

Yes. It needs to Autofocus using an internal motor. If it's 100% manual focusing, do not buy it. I swiped this screenshot from Ken Rockwell's site. The lens you should buy will have this ID Plate.

What year? That lens has been around for awhile. You want the "current" version. If the guy mentioned it was radioactive, then it probably was. Even though I don't recommend KR, here is some info on that lens: https://kenrockwell.com/nikon/200mm-micro.htm

That lens I just linked to, the AF Micro-Nikkor 200mm f/4D IF-ED was produced from 1993 to present is not radioactive. It's the much older versions that have those radioactive lens elements.

If I had to make an educated guess on the Macro Lens that Nikon will replace / update, it's the AF 200mm f/4 D Macro Lens. Of course this is just a rumor. NikonRumors.com will be the source of info for this possible rumored lens replacement. Oh here is a YouTube Video with a review of this lens.

1. Good choice. Keep in mind a 24-70 could also serve as a landscape lens. 2. Nikon is rumored to be coming out with a new macro with a focal length beyond 105. Probably 150-200. I would hold off for just a bit more. 3. A D500 with its angle of view change will help with reach. So will a D850 put in crop mode. So maybe me recommending a D850 isn’t off the table. Basically with a D850, you have two cameras built into one. See if your D750 has a DX Mode you might already have that reach without spending a dime. Granted, the edges of the sensor get turned off so you will have less MP, but even if we cut that in half, 12MP is completely do-able Dig through you manual and try a few test shots it’s digital, you can afford to experiment. 4. Realistic Expectations when it comes to noise. It’s more about nailing your exposure than anything. Photographing someone in crappy light isn’t going to make them look good, even if you have $10,000 in camera gear; crappy light is crappy light. If you make your camera struggle, you will see it in the photos. Also, the more pixels you cram into the same physical area on the sensor, the less likely the pixels can soak up light, which helps produce noise. Keep in mind there is a thing called sensor grain and that “noise” you might be seeing isn’t truly noise.

It's under the shooting menu, or camera icon. Look for "Long exposure NR" and "High ISO NR" or something along those lines. Both are set to OFF on my camera. I want to control noise reduction. G.A.S. or N.A.S. is a slippery slope. Honestly, for the current Lord of the Darkness is the Nikon D5, though a D850 isn't bad. Wanna spend $6500?

That light in that photo is really crappy. You aren't giving your camera a chance. That's typical. I should show you noise from my D200. Images "Fell Apart" at ISO 640. 800 was terrible and 1600 was unbearable with that camera. If you are looking for "clean" images at 4000 or 6400, like you would at 200 or 400, that's not the case. ISO 4000 is still 4000. This gives me an idea of a project. I see many people complain about noisy photos, they have no idea just how good modern equipment is. As for the photo, I don't see much noise. I see a soft photo and I'm not sure that is from noise reduction by you or the camera. I turn my camera's High ISO Automatic Noise Reduction to off, or set it really high, to apply like at 256000. (Which I'm never at.) I want to control my noise reduction, not have my camera guess on what is good for the photo.

I don’t like the 16-35. It has weird distortion at 16mm and 35 that cant fully be corrected in post. It’s crap at both ends, in my humble opinion. What is has going for it is you can mount filters and it’s cheaper than the 14-24. Honestly, I’d get a 18-35 FX lens over a 16-35. It’s sharper and is very economical. The main thing that people regret is paying such a high price tag of the 14-24, they never regret buying the lens itself. People have regretted buying the 16-35 and kick themselves for not buying a 14-24. Make sense? So I would get a 14-24, hands down and if the budget is tight, id get a 18-35, which is a surprisingly sharp little lens.

A used 14-24 in good / excellent shape should cost you around $1300. Give or take. Like $1250 - $1300. The lens sells around $1900 new.

IS II. Yes, it makes a difference. Get at least the IS II VERSION. I have a Motto, “Buy it Right - Buy it Once.” Canon just released the newest version, the IS III. If you are going to spend that amount of money, get the latest and greatest. Though the IS II is still a fine lens. Either way, make sure you get the IS II or IS III. With proper technique, it is possible to go down to 1/30th hand held and get decent images. The IS III is a newer stabilization system, and will serve you well with low-light sports photography I have a love affair with my 70-200 f/2.8 lens. Her name is Bertha. I plan on having that Lens for another 10 or so years. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1414599-REG The one thing I will warn you about 70-200 f/2.8 lenses, is that they are around 3lbs / 1.63 kilograms all by themselves. Pro-Grade f/2.8 Glass are usually heavy, though worth every penny.

I know what you are thinking. But I can use f/8 to take a photo, what do you mean it won't work? What happens is that you lose one stop of light when you mount the extender. Since the 70-300 is variable aperture lens, we take the f/5.6 aperture and deduct one stop and that's f/8. At that point, the widest aperture that you can go is f/8. You can go to f/11, f/16 and f/22, but not f/5.6, which is what your camera needs to autofocus as there isn't enough light for it at f/8. Even if you put the lens at 70mm to get f/4, it will automatically stop down to f/8 when you mount the extender. That's why you really want a f/2.8 lens or a f/4 lens with an extender and not a variable aperture one.

7D? Well, using the 1.4 Extender won't work on your camera. It's completely off the table since that body won't focus at f/8. So you could buy the 70-300 L, but there is no extra reach for you down the road. I'd still get the 100-400 L for wildlife. OR since you have a crop body, how about a 70-200 f/4 L lens? Since Gymnastics are usually indoors with crappy gym lighting having a fixed aperture helps greatly. What I mean is the 70-300 is a variable aperture lens, which automatically stops down to f/5.6 when you zoom to 300mm. With the 70-200 f/4, you choose what aperture you want and it stays there, regardless of the focal length. You could be at f/4 at 70mm, 150mm or 200mm. Same thing goes with the more expensive f/2.8 version. I caught this with a 70-200 f/2.8 way back when on my Nikon D300s, which is similar to your 7D. I was standing near 3rd base when I took this shot, which was at f/4: Also this shot was taken just beyond first base: Using a crop body's Angle of View change to your advantage is key. A 70-200 on a Canon 7D will act like a 112mm - 320mm lens.

Oh, if your router uses 10.0.0.1, just use 10.0.0.10 and 10.0.0.20 and still use 255.255.255.0 for the subnet address for both.

Having two computers on the same network segment / subnet is required. So both have to be on 192.168.xx.xx or 10.xx.xx.xx with a Subnet Mask of 255.255.255.0 (For a simple home network.) I'd match this up with your router IP scheme. It's going to start with 192 or 10. Your "Workgroup" name can be anything, but I'd leave it at the default, which is "Workgroup" for both. Then it's just a matter of sharing out folders and giving permissions on said folders. Example: Gateway / Your Router: 192.168.1.1 Computer A - Static IP address (Instead of Auto) IP: 192.168.1.10 Subnet: 255.255.255.0 Gateway: 192.168.1.1 DNS: Leave this set to automatically obtain Computer B - Static IP address (Instead of Auto) IP: 192.168.1.20 Subnet: 255.255.255.0 Gateway: 192.168.1.1 DNS: Leave this set to automatically obtain Then pick a folder to share out. We can call this folder "Transfer." For simplicity's sake, leave the "Everyone" Permissions intact. Then all you do is create a shortcut with the following path: Computer A's Folder \\192.168.1.10\Transfer. This is why it's important to have a static IP, it keeps things simple. Otherwise you'll have to use the computer's name to get to the folder and sometimes those names can be a bit of a pain to type each time.

Turn OFF all the hybrid sleeps. Hell, keep your computer running and just have it turn off the display. I don't understand this statement? I network Windows 7 and Windows 10 computers all the time. It's better to have the Windows "Pro" editions if you want to network things, but you should be able to setup a simple Workgroup network, thought that kind of thing I don't support around here.

I wouldn't use a 1.4 Teleconverter (Extender) on a 70-300. Image quality will take a big hit, and the aperture blades will automatically stop down to f/8 and that will require a body that can focus using f/8. Usually that's bodies like the Canon 1DX, though I have heard of other Canon bodies being able to AF with this combo. Oh, it will take the latest firmware on your camera body giving the best chance for the 70-300 and EF 1.4x combo to work. In reality, you want a lens that has a fixed aperture of f/2.8 to work the best with Teleconverters. Those fancy lenses aren't cheap and even they will suffer from some image quality hit. What type of sports are you shooting? Is it Little League with kids that you can be on the sidelines or are you up in the stands amongst people? Also, what type of body are you shooting with? A Crop Body? Full Frame? Because with a crop body, you get the benefit of the Angle of View Change, which a 70-300 will act like a 112mm - 480mm lens would on a full frame. Which isn't too bad. If you are on a Full Frame body, I'd recommend somethiing like the Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM Lens, heck I'd recommend that lens over a 70-300 for both a crop and full fame body. Most of my Canon friends who shoot Wildlife as a hobby, started out with a 70-300 (non L) on a crop body, and then ended up purchasing the 100-400mm L at some point. I've seen very good images come out of that lens. So in my humble opinion, I wouldn't bother with a 70-300L at $1349 and the 1.4 III Extender; I'd save up a little bit more and go straight to the 100-400mm L. At the end of things, you are only spending $221 more, BUT you aren't taking the Image Quality hit and you get to keep that one stop of light. Plus, I forgot to mention a Focus Speed performance hit with using a TC (Extender) which does make a BIG difference, especially with sports. In reality, a Extender / Teleconverter just isn't a good idea; unless you have $10,000+ lenses that are awesome to begin with that can take the IQ, Focus Speed and Stops of light loss.

Yeah, with the newer monitors and operating systems, it's better to have a newer calibration device. I'm currently using a ColorMunki on my new iMac, and I'm....meh...about what I'm seeing after calibration. (The new iMacs now have a wide-gamut screen.) I know there will be a new OS in the fall and X-Rite is doing a complete refresh of their calibration software (to make it 64-bit) so I might just wait. Hey @Damien Symonds, I'm wondering if "monitor profiles not sticking" threads are due to hibernation issues? Maybe we should start by recommending turning hibernation off first? Before dorking around with profiles and un-installing / re-installing?

Yes, it’s hibernation that is kicking out the calibrated profile. Hibernation creates a snapshot of what’s running on your computer and puts it into a big file. The idea is if you lose power, the hibernation file will reload and you will have a better chance of recovering on where you left off / lost power. The problem is, it’s not fool-proof and doesn’t always get everything, like monitor profiles. Especially if your monitor is listed as “Generic” in the Device Manager, well at least in my experience. Honestly, it would be better to turn off hibernation, delete the hibernation file to recover disk space and purchase a APC UPS (Surge Protector with a Battery) than to use hibernation.