Brian

I also had another thought besides the camera settings, still which need to be rechecked. It is possible a bent pin in a card reader could have screwed up your card. The end result is more than likely going to be the same, but there might be another ingredient in this whole mess. In fact, the most vulnerable time for a CF card is when you insert and remove the card. A bent or shorted pin in either the camera or reader (or second body) can really screw up your day. I actually remember reading about a Wedding Photographer who had a bent pin in her primary camera, which blew the card. Since she was busy shooting a Wedding, she picked up her backup body and moved the card over from her primary. Well guess what? The now faulty card shorted out her 2nd body. Two dead cameras during a gig within a span of 5 min. Fortunately, her 2nd had a spare camera. My point is, you really need to be aware of the state your cards are in. Especially CF Media. Assume nothing. Even if the card worked fine the last 10 times.

It leaves you seriously screwed. It sounds like you do not have your D810 setup properly. Perhaps you are shooting RAW + JPEG and the JPEG files might be assigned to the SD slot. I would seriously take a look at your Nikon D810 Manual and read it cover to cover. #KNOWYOURGEAR #NOEXCUSES #YESITISBORING A: Only if you have it setup that way. By default, the CF card is written to first. So in your case, you want the SD card to be Primary and the CF to be Secondary. Then you choose Overflow from the Secondary Slot Function Option to have the files be written to the CF card once the SD card is filled. But you N-E-E-D to designate the SD slot as Primary first!! These options are in the Shooting Menu. Now, before you shoot ANY gig, YOU NEED TO FORMAT BOTH OF YOUR CARDS IN CAMERA. The filesystem needs to be setup on BOTH CARDS or else things won't be written to the cards properly. Never-ever format CF/SD cards in your computer. >>> Those images will go *POOF* when the camera's buffer dumps the images onto a un-formatted card. <<< It is not good practice to shoot multiple gigs on the same cards, unless it's back to back sessions at the same place. Even then that practice is questionable. In reality, one shoot = one set of cards. Now I'm sure you are saying, "...but that's expensive." So are lawyer's fees if you get sued. Trust me, extra CF / SD cards are cheaper than legal fees. So before we continue, how is your camera's menus setup? How is your image recording set? What bit depth is your RAW files set to? Are they compressed or un-compressed? What is your JPEG recording options set to? You want "Optimal Quality" for "JPEG FIne." Yes, you will be shooting in RAW, but it's a good idea to set your JPEG quality just in-case your fat-finger something and you accidentally shoot a session in JPEG. Trust me, it's happened before. Usually followed by a panicked post from a member here. So I'm here to help. Let's get you straightened out. In addition, what brand of CF / SD cards are you using?

Ditch the card. The Promaster brand is really scrapping the bottom of the barrel. Inside the CF Card, is a little tiny computer chip which then designates to where the data files end up. In this case, it's image files. If that little CPU chip screws up, your image files are screwed up. It honestly sounds like you were able to get the JPEG Preview files that are contained with in the RAW files. I'm thinking the images were being written to on a faulty card and there is no way in getting the RAW files back. Fortunately, Sandisk is running a sale on their "Professional Grade" line of cards: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1000363-REG/sandisk_sdcfxps_064g_a46_64gb_extreme_pro_compact.html I personally only by Sandisk Extreme and Sandisk Extreme Pro cards. It's just not worth it cheaping out on the most important part of the camera...the friggin' cards! You can get a 32GB card for $50.

Unless you are into Overclocking and playing games, you are splitting hairs. The Gigabyte Motherboard is a solid one, but if you want to get a faster motherboard and faster RAM, that's going to raise the prices about $500 just for the motherboard. Plus there is other stuff to tweak. We could easily blow another $1500 on components. Or more. I understand what you are asking, you want a "SuperFast Computer with Fireballs painted on the sides." I get it. The problem with that is you are missing one thing: Manufacturers buy stuff in bulk, which lowers the costs. The local guy / gal that's going to build you a system, they really don't buy in bulk. The components that they choose usually accomplish a few things: Are Reliable, so they don't have to fix / support things Are Cheap/Inexpensive, to keep their COGS low. That motherboard is around $75 or so. It's a good motherboard, but it's not a $800 motherboard with superfast RAM, overclocked CPU and liquid cooling. What I would do is upgrade the SSD drive from 250GB to at least 512GB, or better yet... get a 1TB SSD. I would not put anything less than a 512GB / 500GB in today's computers and really recommend that you get that 1TB. Now, some folks might say, "...but you just put the OS on the SSD and maybe your main programs and put everything else on the D: Drive..." I'd say that's true. The problem is the individual end-user. They are so used to going, "next-next-next...ok...standard install...nextnextnext, ok..finish" that everything just ends up on the C: (SSD) drive. It will become a mess at some point. With a SSD / Traditional HD setup, you have to be ANAL on what goes where. You must be proactive. You must choose "Custom" install and select the D: drive for stuff. Plus, with all of the updates for Windows and various programs getting larger all the time, 250GB is just "Too Small" these days. At a MINIMUM, you want a 512GB SSD Main Drive or 500GB Traditional HD. You can never have too much HD space. I seriously recommend the 1TB drive I linked to. I'm no fan of Seagate Hard Drives. The only HDs that have failed or physically blown components on me are Seagate Drives. I like the Western Digital Caviar Black line of Hard Drives. I've owned several drives over the years and have never had a problem. They run fast, are reliable and run cool. I would avoid the "WD Caviar Green Drives" like the plague. They are cheap pieces of junk. I'd get two of these and configure them in a RAID1: WD Caviar Black 7200 RPM Drive - 4TB Video Card: I'd upgrade to a 4GB model. Adobe's products are using video RAM for a performance boost these days, so it's better to get a decent video card. The one that's chosen is fine, I'd just get the 4GB model. I wouldn't go blowing a $1000 on a insanely fast video card, Adobe's products probably won't take advantage of the architecture that make it so fast. You aren't playing some sort of video game that a huge refresh rate with the highest detail setting. You want something that Adobe's software will play nice with. Finally, I would get 32GB of RAM and be done with it. While 16GB is good to have these days, like HD capacity, you can never have too much.

The other think you have to keep in mind, is you don't always put the AF point on your daughter's eye when she is that far away. You see, as far as your camera is concerned, there is a teeny-tiny bit of contrast swing (her eye) surrounded by a pinkish blob, (her face.) So your camera will take a best educated guess on focusing. For this shot, this is the wrong lens to use. Stopping down would have helped a smidge and maybe putting the AF point on her left arm could have helped, but nothing to write home about. The end result would still be the roughly the same. Wrong lens choice.

All kidding aside, the PC that is listed in the chart is a very nice one. It's "better" than the Dell XPS 8900 that I normally recommend. You see, what is "Great" now is already outdated. Within 6 months, something even better will come out. So I don't get excited by technology that much, because it's constantly evolving. Manufactures do not want you holding onto a computer for 5-7 years. They want you in the market sooner rather than later. So they keep pumping stuff out model after model. By the time you have done your research and saved up enough money and finally made a decision, that model you were going to buy has been replaced...and not always by something better. So if it were me, I'd get the one you were quoted and purchase a Dell Ultrasharp Monitor.

Enjoy your purchase!!

I just got to thinking, what would be a "Great" off the shelf computer that is already built? Alienware comes to mind. I'd look at the Alienware Area 51 line and would start with the $2099 model. Be sure to include a keyboard and mouse, since they are extra. High-end computers are targeted towards people who have no problems dropping a few hundred on a mouse and keyboard, so they don't come standard. http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-area51-r2/pd?oc=dpcw02s&model_id=alienware-area51-r2#overrides=dpcw02s:4~W8AWENG;12~AWLMMG1

If you want great, we can do great. I configured a "Awesome" computer...and stopped at $2700. Final cost was around $3600. Of course, you'll have to put it together yourself. Off the shelf computers aren't great. They are fine. They will get the job done. PS doesn't need a lot of horsepower. It won't take advantage of the architecture of a "Great" computer. You are just blowing money and trying to show off if you went that route. Just like PS runs slower on a Mac Pro vs a fast iMac. Now if you are editing video, that's a different story. So take my specs that I have laid out and use them as a baseline. Find a computer that has triple the specs and has awesome reviews.

Dell XPS 8900

Yep! Most lenses fall apart if the subject is more than 20 feet away. This is normal. Everyone talks about minimum focusing distance, but not maximum focusing distance, which is usually between 15-20+ feet. One of my most used lenses is the Nikon 17-55 f/2.8. It's the "24-70" for crop bodies. Anyway, when the subject is between 5 feet and 15 feet away, they are tack sharp. 16-20 feet away, they are "OK Sharp...gonna have to do stuff in PS later." 20 Feet or more...forget it. I'm reaching for my 70-200 and using compression to my advantage. I do know that Sigma has released firmware updates for the various ART lenses which helped some with focusing issues. You need the Sigma USB Dock in order to do the firmware update. That said, I don't think it applies here. This just boils down to good 'ol #KNOWINGYOURGEAR and when to use the lens...and when not to. Now if you are going to be doing photos like this and want to crop in severely, to get the detail that you want, you are buying a Nikon D810 or one of the Canon 50MP cameras. However, before blowing thousands on a camera body, can I interest you in spending that money on a 70-200 f/2.8 lens? That will do more for you than a new camera body. To give you an example, I was about the same distance away as you were when I took this shot with my 70-200 f/2.8 VR II:

Yes I'd get a Dell Ultrasharp instead.

Oh, I NEVER buy those extended warranty things, unless it's AppleCare. They almost never want to fix things and are pure profit for the resellers.

Phew!!! That's ok!! Nikon will touch it. Make a copy of your proof of purchase (receipt) and contact Nikon. Even though it's out of warranty, it's still good to include a copy. BTW, Nikon DOES NOT want it sent in the camera's box. So find a plain box and wrap it well in bubble-wrap. (Remember, Fra-Gil-Aye is Swahili for "Drop Me.") Visit Nikon's Website to schedule a repair and to print out the necessary paperwork and address card. Nikon will give you a quote before proceeding with any repairs. For the problem description, just tell the what you told me in the above comment. Hope it isn't too expensive. I'm thinking around $350 to fix. Let me know if I'm close.

Both seem fine. The only brand I would avoid is Samsung. They make great displays, but are a real pain to get calibrated. Those LG ones you linked to seem to be ok.

Computer is fine. Samsung displays are a real pain in the ass when it comes to calibration. I'd skip the Samsung Display and get the computer.

Does it come with a IPS Display Panel?

There are two repair centers in the US. States East of the Mississippi River sent their equipment to NY. West of the Mississippi get sent to CA.

How does one know if it's "Grey Market?" - Price is a lot less than the "Normal" price that you see at various retailers. The reason is, like Apple, Nikon controls the minimum prices for the "legit" stuff. So the price on Amazon, B&H, Adorama should be about the same, $3299.99 $3299.95, $3295.00, etc. If you see a "New" D810 for $2499, or $1999...you aren't getting a deal. You are getting suckered. - The reseller will boast about its own warranty service and play down the standard 12 Month Nikon Warranty. "Have peace of mind with a 36 Month warranty from ___________!!" - The camera will be listed with the word "Import" or "Grey/Gray Market" next to it online. Of course, this is from a reputable dealer. - Too good to be true pricing. A D810 retails for $3299 and goes on sale for around $2799, $2796.95, etc. So if you see one being sold as new for $1499, that's a dead give-away. Some shady retailers will go as far as to charge you $1200 for a D810, then charge extra for the batteries, charger, manual, camera strap, and then force you to buy a overpriced memory card and accessory bundle. Combine that with a unknown warranty place that won't honor claims, and you will learn an expensive lesson. In the end, you end up paying the full amount, or even more than if you just bought it outright at an authorized dealer.

Sounds like you bought a Gray / Grey Market item. Which means that the camera didn't follow normal import channels and DOES NOT come with a Nikon Warranty. In fact, NikonUSA WILL NOT TOUCH IT IF SENT INTO REPAIR, EVEN IF IT'S OUT OF WARRANTY! So if it is a Grey Market item, it becomes a paperweight if it breaks and the place that you bought it from wont repair it. Did you get a NikonUSA warranty card in the box? Hopefully you did. The next step I would take is to call Nikon and give them the Serial Number to see if they will touch it. I'd hate for you to pay shipping only to have it sent immediately back to you.

Unless you want to hate life, do not get a all-in-one touch screen for photo editing. For a decent editing computer that will last you around 5+ years, expect the final cost to be between $1000-$1500 for everything. If you are looking only to spend $500 total, expect to be replacing that system in about 18-24 months.

The "Hardware Stuff" of Ask Damien is covered here in the "Ask Brian" section here in the new forums. You found the right place to post this. Thanks for the head's up.

It occurred to me that having something like an iPad to do in person sales is something to consider. Or am I wrong? What Apps or Software do you use? What do you use hardware-wise? IPad? Laptop? Big display on a wall in your studio? I'm curious!

Using a iPad and doing in person sales is something to consider. I'm going to create a thread in the Land of Misfits for others to chime in.

That might be your problem. Check the settings. Make sure you tell it that you are burning (data) files and not photos. The software could be screwing things up and making it so that only a DVD player will read the disk. Check to see if there is any documentation and if so, give it a read. Or... ...if that software is still fighting you, I'd take a hard look at Nero 2016 Classic. ($44.99) Nero has been around forever and the 2016 version is Windows 10 compatible. More often than not, the default software that comes with the computer is pure crap, which doesn't work well. EDIT: I just re-read the last comment. It sounds like you are using the Windows Default process of writing to a disc. I'd seriously stop doing that and get Nero to help you. Time is money and happy clients are a good thing. For $45, it's an easy to fix situation. You have no control on what Windows does or how it burns the discs. Now I'm sure you are asking, "Why does this only happen to a few customers, but not all of them? I really don't feel like forking out $45 if I don't have to..." This is the problem with only providing disc media. Discs that you burn don't always work in certain drives. I've run across Computer DVD drives that HATE a particular brand and simply won't work. Other times they only can be read in a true DVD player. It really varies and it's not something you can predict. So my recommendation is to use true burning software and see if that helps. Also, I personally only recommend Verbatim and Sony Discs. The Memorex Discs that you can find everywhere are pure pieces of shit. I used to have constant problems with Memorex's media, from bad discs to customers not being able to read the damn things. When I switched to Verbatim, my problems went away. In addition, I have to be Captain Obvious on this one... You know what works 100% of the time... The media that enables a customer to view images without any extra technology and is guaranteed to work as long as you have a light source? A PRINTED PHOTOGRAPH!!!! *GASP!!!!* I know, everybody wants a damn disc. They only want images to post on Facebook for #Hashtags & #Humblebrags. I get it. But if you want to have ZERO problems with your customers being able to see their images, prints are the way to go.