Brian

I'm also not a fan of Tamron lenses. I realize you are probably stuck with it, so I'd rent a D750 and a Nikon 24-70 f/2.8 combo to see the difference between the Tamron & Nikon.

Yeah, read the fabulous manual. Let's go with that. You just figured out your problem. In order for your camera to lock focus, there needs to be enough contrast swing for it to lock on. So if you are 20 feet away, trying to focus on a eyeball, you are going to blow focus. Period. Likewise, when you get closer and your subject's eye (or whatever you are trying to lock onto,) focus will be much easier for the camera's AF sensors to lock on. In addition, lenses have a minimum focusing distance, which means how close your subject can be to the lens, but there is a MAXIMUM DISTANCE that never gets talked about. Right now, one of my most used lenses is the Nikon 17-55 f/2.8 DX. It's the "24-70" for crop bodies. If my subject is between 5-10 feet away, my images are "tack sharp." Between 10-15 feet, they are "sharp." 16-20 feet it's "meh, fix it in PS sharp." 20 feet or more, "don't bother clicking the button, or reach for the 70-200." So it sounds like you need to re-think your approach to certain situations. I wish you could simply point the camera at something, click the button, and it's in focus. LOL! It doesn't always work that way. For large groups, 3 to 4 rows deep, chances are, I'm going to be 15+ feet away, just to get everyone in the shot. So I will stop down to f/8, or possibly f/11. Then I will pick something on the front row, somewhere in the center. It could be a jacket or someone's face that has dark hair, something for the AF sensor to lock on. As you said, something that fills the AF point. A eyeball isn't going to do it. To top things off, you are dealing with the angle of view change that comes with crop sensors. So a 24-70 lens performs more like a 36-105 equivalent. It's really not "wide" on a crop sensor. That's why a 17-55 f/2.8 is better on a crop body. Since you are shooting with a 24-70 lens, you might want to rent a D750 and give it a spin. Bonus: High ISO will be at at your disposal, which will help with crappy lighting.

Wow...That's Eizo. That's $2000 just for the monitor. Or more. I'd get the Dell U2715H as well. Enjoy your purchase.

If you are going for more hardcore things like video games and such, or editing video, then I would add more stuff to look for on the list. Since it's just photos, the basic 4 points I usually refer to will be sufficient.

Either the Dell U2715H or Dell U2415H is fine.

Read the above comment. I don't type this stuff out for my health. Or look at the specs for the Dell XPS 8900 and find something similar. Bottom Line: You are looking for a low-end gaming machine. Whether it's a Desktop or Laptop.

The Dell Line of monitors has been refreshed, so I'm going to have to look at them. What hasn't changed on what to look for is: IPS-Based Display. Matte Coating or Matte Display. HDMI / DVI / DisplayPort for the port type. AVOID using the 15-pin D-SUB / VGA port. That port is meant for tube displays, not fancy flatscreens.

Crashplan is a whole other thing. We might have to create a new thread and I'll move it to the Land of Misfits for others to chime in. I have zero experience with Crashplan.

Creating a new catalog will lose your LR settings for each file. Yes. But in reality, those edits are only applied when to export from LR. That's one of the big problems with LR catalogs. If the Catalog corrupts itself, all that labeling and edits with the sliders are lost. So, what you might want to do is export those files that you go keep going back to and export them as .psd files in a special folder. Or create presets based on those edits.

No special software. Just good 'ol copy and paste. Step 1: Let's get that WD configured for RAID 1 and formatted for use with the Mac.

I'm wondering if Apple's previewer is trying to render the D810 files at 100%. Apple's image programs (iPhoto and now Photos,) never worked really well. A D810 file-sizes might be too large for the Previewer program. So again, let's try ViewNX or a similar program before forking out money for a whole computer. Oh, every new 27" iMac is 5K. You don't have a choice in the matter.

Let's try using Nikon's viewer, ViewNX, which is free and see what happens. The 27" iMacs have a access panel that allows end users to install RAM without voiding their warranty. That said, if you screw up installing your RAM, Apple won't cover the repairs under warranty. (Duh!) However, I've never had a member screw up to the point they have broken anything. Even Moms that have 4 year olds "helping." It's not a big deal. The second thing I want to bring up is if Apple finds out you have 3rd party RAM (e.g. Crucial, Kingston, etc.) they will blame every single stinking problem on the RAM. Mouse battery died? Oh it's the Crucial RAM. Computer won't power on? Oh, it's the Crucial RAM. Even though the surge protector was switched off, it was the Crucial RAM that cast a magic spell on you forcing to turn off the surge protector. Of course, I'm being a little silly, but I'm serious about Apple blaming everything on 3rd party RAM, which is complete BS. So if you ever talk to Apple, just keep your mouth shut. No, Apple RAM isn't magical or better. Just extremely overpriced.

A low-end gaming laptop. Just like a desktop. I5 or i7 CPU 8GB RAM at a Minimum 16 GB Preferred. A 1TB HD This is the kicker: A separate and dedicated video card with its own memory. Adobe's products are using the Graphics Processor for a performance boost. So integrated video is not what you want these days. Most of these type of laptops are around the $1200 mark, give or take.

I still do not recommend using a laptop for photo-editing. Because that laptop and it's high price-tag will be "Too Slow" in about 2-3 years. There are two major components, a IPS based screen, and enough horsepower to run Photoshop and store photos and a dedicated video card with its own video memory. Just like a desktop. Since it's portable, the price is higher. You are paying for convenience. You could get a decent desktop for 1/3 of the price.

Since there aren't a whole lotta threads in Ask Brian 2.0, it's easy to find stuff. Just look for the laptops threads. You'll see them.

A friend of mine (non-photographer) just got a ASUS ROG Laptop. It is a SWEET LAPTOP with a GORGEOUS DISPLAY. I think Damien has one himself. If I were to buy a laptop, that'd be the one I'd get.

Here, buy this laptop. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1183445-REG/asus_g752vt_dh72_i7_6700hq_16gb_1tb_128_windows_10_64_970m_17_3.html Seriously, take a look at the specs. That's what you want. While you are at it, buy one of these: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/650472-REG/Acratech_6005R_Viewing_Angle_Gauge_Red.html

Yeah, it's in my head. I haven't written it down. Some members have paid me to log into their Macs and do things for them. I have been toying around with a "Macintosh Class" for awhile. We could also network the two Macs together, but that's a whole process and one I'm not willing to tell you how to do for free. It's techy-nerd-type-stuff. We are going to create a new one. I know you don't want to hear it, but instead of trying to link every single file and folder, all 140,000 of them, it's just faster and easier to create a new catalog. Do you really want LR to find 140,000 files? Because it's not going to do it on its own, you are gonna have to click them. That would take hours, possibly a week or two. Honestly, it's just better to start fresh and import the photos that you want / need. It already sounds like you have a data-management process / file-structure in place, so we will stick with that. If you caved in and used Bridge, as Damien recommends, this whole thing would be a non-issue. Hell to the NO!! See above.

I actually use LR, but am slowly moving away from it. Damien is persistent. I agree 110%. Large LR catalogs have a habit of corrupting, randomly. So that photographer that hasn't had one problem with a million photos in his LR catalog will convince you that there isn't a problem and just go ahead and do it. Which in my opinion, is like playing roulette. I have personally never transferred large amounts photos in LR, I've always done this outside of LR. Too risky. LR catalogs have enough problems as it is. So since you are asking me, I would do this outside of LR. The downside is LR gets really cranky when it can't find things. OMG does it b-i-t-c-h. Honestly, do you really need all of those photos in LR? Think about it. After you delivered the photos to the client from 3+ years ago, are you seriously going to dive back in and re-edit them? Most of the time, you will have your latest sessions and maybe your "Greatest HIts" photos. The others just sit there, just taking up space. What you should do is turn on the EHD icons on your desktop, and that's in the Finder Preferences Menu. Right now I'm on my Work's laptop, so I can't do screen shots. I will post them later. Basically what you want to do is COPY the photos from one HD to the other. You NEVER-EVER-EVER want to MOVE the photos. The reason is, when you move files and folders, you are deleting the photos from the source folder as it copies them. If something happens and there is a glitch during the data transfer, there is a very good possibility that the photos will go "Poof," which is bad and causes tears. When you copy, you aren't deleting anything, as the source files remain intact. If something screws up, you can cancel the data transfer and start all over again. I myself used to be one of those guys that always moved files. What could happen? I'm a computer guy, I know what I'm doing!!! LOL!! Ummm....yeah. I ate Crow, not sure if it tasted more like Chicken or Turkey. I hadn't had a single problem in 20+ years...until that one data move cost a customer 100 non-replaceable files. (Which turned out to be corrupted .pdf files on the destop, but we didn't know that until we tried to transfer things.) Learned my lesson on that one. OK, before we start moving anything, let's get that WD drive setup as a RAID 1 and make sure things are happy. THEN we will start dorking around with your photos. Sound Good? But to answer your question, yes...you are correct. We will do a mass copy to the new EHD then load LR on your new iMac (You can have two licensed copies running with Adobe's products.) When the LR is installed and the photos are transferred, we can re-import things. I'm also sure there are presets and other stuff to move over. This whole process is a bit of a pain, and is tedious. This stuff isn't fun, but it is a way to start over fresh. I would also download the latest LR CC 2015 and PS CC 2015. El Capitan has known issues with Adobe's products, and the LR / PS CC 2015 versions have the greatest chance of being updated to fix bugs.

Good point!! Comfy Chair is a requirement. You want your arse to feel as though it's being coddled by angels. Those type of chairs aren't cheap. Minimum $500.

Another thought... Say your husband is fast and edits 30-50 photos per hour. Ok. Then we are talking money. Quicker turn-around means higher profit. But then since he is a newbie, it's really easy to become sloppy. Especially when chasing the dollar. My advice: He should take Damien's classes and edit your shoots. Start there. Eventually he will "know" when to branch out to others...probably in about 2+ years.

I can tell you that looking at the same person in a few hundred photos becomes mind-numbing. I don't care how beautiful the person might be, cloning out that wart on her eyelid in each photo...ugh. Or smoothing skin / zapping zits / looking at pores sometimes turns my stomach, especially if you are editing something like a wedding. I personally hope that strapless gowns go out of style. Because having to liquify fat rolls and armpits on a bride 500+ times...oh let's not go there. Most people aren't beautiful. They are average looking and never think to have their makeup professionally done. "My Sister / Cousin Friend will do it!! She's watched a lot of YouTube videos and is passionate!!" Uh-huh. Good luck with fixing those mistakes / spray on tan in each and every photo. Think long and hard before diving into the trenches of retouch-up work.

It would be in both of your interests for him to take all of Damien's classes, then spend time on editing (and learning how to edit) your photos. Being consistent and proficient takes time and experience, often years. While Damien's classes are excellent, by no means will you take them and be an instant expert, taking on editing, restoration work and the like. Basically if you have to ask...chances are the answer is "No." There are no shortcuts. I don't care what website or workshop giver tells you. Damien has been doing this stuff for a long time, I think 20+ years. Yes, there is a market, but it's an investment of time. Even if you edit a photo for 3-5 min, after a few hundred / few thousand photos, that time adds up. Let's say 4 minutes per photo... that's 15 photos per hour @ $1.00 a photo. So $15.00 per hour. You have 600 photos from a wedding to edit. That's 40 hours at $15/hr, or $600. $600 for 40 hours of work. You can make more working a part time job. LOL! Oh, let's not forget taxes and things like equipment to buy and electric / internet bills to pay for. So take 40% out of that $600. So you are left with $360, conversationally speaking. Now take into consideration that photo edit / restoration work is piece-work. There will be times when you are overwhelmed and other times you are dead. Combine this with a full time job and it becomes a major time-suck. But wait! I will charge $3 per photo!! I will make more!! Uh-huh. Tell that to the photographer who charges $2000 for a wedding that you want $1800 to edit. They will look at you as if you are nuts. Oh, the more profit you make, the more you pay in taxes.

RTFM. I gave you page numbers in my comment above. But I really think it's the stupid BBF that's tripping you up. We also need to check to see if you are on Focus Priority.

Stop with the blasted back-button focusing!!! It is not the end all and be all technique that it's made out to be!!! It really only works if you shut off the shutter release button from focusing. Honestly, start using the shutter button to focus. Learn good technique. Yes, I know of all the blog posts and forums that claim it's the most Amazeballz thing you can do to nail focus and blah-blah-blah. The truth is, it works for some, but not all. AF-C is meant to continually focus when the shutter button is pressed half way. You really should be on AF-S (Single) when you BBF. If your subject moves, your focus will be off. If you are BBF and recomposing, you will have a few inches for your head to move, or else your subject will be out of focus. If you have the shutter button's ability to focus turned off and you only have a rear button allowing your camera to focus, then it will only focus when you press the rear button. Which for me will be a pain, literally. As I would likely poke myself in the eye. In addition, you need to set your Focus menu setting to "Focus Priority" instead of the default "Release Priority." When you set the camera to Focus Priority, it will only take a photo that the camera thinks that it's in focus. Release means it snaps the photo regardless. So let's start using the shutter button going forward, just to see what happens.