Damien Symonds

May I see a 100% crop of that area in your print file?

https://ask.damiensymonds.net/topic/131-read-this-first-posting-guidelines/

No, you definitely haven't. https://www.damiensymonds.net/trainingskin.html

What do you mean, help? Take the damn class, you mug!

There is a little, yes.

Oh @Jan Mac, this is SUCH a good question, and one I've struggled with myself. It begins by positioning the photo carefully enough when photographing to avoid glare and reflection as much as possible. But that is never the whole story. The second part of the story is in the editing, and it usually involves Channel Mixer. May I see one of your problematic images?

That's only a problem if you try to liquify too precisely. Make it nice and big. Download PSD

The first one looks similar enough, I reckon. It might work.

The neck area would be a simple enough Liquify job, but I'm calling "impossible" on the mouth closing, sorry.

Hi @kelkolkat, I'm not sure if it matters, but can you tell us where the original raw files are? I mean, are they on your internal hard drive?

My blue Solid Color layer was R9 G41 B115. On Soft Light blend mode as I said, and partially masked off the face.

Well ... how important is it? I reckon you could find any old indoor photo, darken it a lot, and mask it in there.

Not perfect, of course, but passable.

Big improvement, though. Well done.

Brilliant.

If it resizes to 700, that's because you made it 700 when you set it up. You'll need to re-do the process from the beginning if you want a new size.

Do you mean the watermarking one?

Looks excellent from here. Well done.

I hope you won't wait too much longer to join the Channel Mixer Class. It's SO useful.

Ok, great. Here's the PSD The order of doing things will need some explanation ... Do the Channel Mixer layer, but leave its mask entirely white (so it affects the whole photo). Add the Dodge & Burn layer and clip it to the CM layer, but don't actually do anything on it yet. Add the Hue/Sat layer and clip it as well. At this stage, the whole photo will be pink. Return to the D&B layer to do that work. Use a very low opacity brush and work gently and patiently, until it's all as smooth as you can make it. Finally, return to the CM layer and invert the mask to black, then paint on the mask just on the area where needed. Make sure it's a biggish soft brush that blends out nicely.

This is the best I can manage. The problem is still there, but much reduced I think. Is it good enough?

Ok, may I see a closer crop of the area?

Hi @newby, I urge you to abandon this idea. Printing your own photos is a really bad idea. It's expensive - not only to buy the printer and the materials, but also the VERY expensive calibrator you need to make your screen and prints match. Not to mention all the wasted money in all the mistakes you'll make while setting up. It's damn frustrating (because of the mistakes I just mentioned). Just do what all sensible photographers do. Find yourself a good lab. That way, you'll only need to buy a calibrator that does screens. The screen-only ones are MUCH cheaper than the screen-and-printer ones. https://www.damiensymonds.net/what2buy_cal.html http://www.damiensymonds.net/lab-reviews

Just to confirm we're on the same page, you're talking about this bit here?

Wonderful.