Damien Symonds

Terrific. There are two possible answers to your question. 1. Find a more suitable hand from another shot, and put it in there. This could be easy, or insanely hard, depending on what hands you can find. 2. Google "Puppet Warp Tutorial". It's designed for exactly this purpose. However, it'll be a bit of a learning curve, so allow lots of time. (In fact, before you even start, ask yourself if it's worth all the time it will take. How important is this to you? If you go for Option 2, make sure you do it on a duplicate of the background layer, because you'll need to clone out the original hand. Read this article to see what I mean. The cloning will need to be very careful, because it will be painfully obvious if you don't line up the fabric texture properly.

And you've fixed the problem?

Great. Have you fixed the colour space problem?

Which version of Photoshop do you have?

Oh gee, you have a much more serious problem than a wayward hand. Please follow this troubleshooter ALL the way to its conclusion: https://www.damiensymonds.net/art_tscs000.html

That's the second time you've posted this, and it's STILL wrong. Please try again. Be better than this. https://www.damiensymonds.net/2014/11/the-bldy-adjustment-brush.html

https://www.damiensymonds.net/art_tscs000.html

Yeah, you got it. Lovely.

You really should. Your Spyder3 could fall over any day now (of course, it might also last another two years, but that's a gamble I, personally, would not take.)

There still seems to be a hard patch of shadow under her chin.

You'll never get the Spyder5 so cheap. I beg you to consider it. How new/old is your screen?

Make sure you follow the Flow Chart carefully.

Do your raw processing as normal, then save the resulting photo as a jpeg to upload for me here.

Ok, let me know when you've got the calibration problems sorted out.

This is my hasty play with the method described above:

Regarding the darkening, I guess there would be a million ways of doing it. I suggest trying this: Add a Gradient Map layer, plain black-to-white. Clip it to the kids layer. This will mean they're in black-and-white, but the city is still in colour. Change the GM layer's blend mode to "Multiply". This will turn them back to colour, but a lot darker. Paint low-opacity black on the mask of the GM layer, to return some of the original brightness where you want the light to be striking the kids. Then add a black Solid Color layer, and also clip it to the layers below. Invert its mask to hide it. Paint with low-opacity white where you want the kids to be darkened.

Oh crap, your city photo is still Adobe RGB.

Ok, adjust to fix that as you re-process the raw file. Then, could you post the two photos (city and kids) separately for me so I can experiment with the darkening you need?

Ok, but the calibration you've just done has had a different outcome, yes? Because you said it no longer matches your prints? That being the case, do you know what has changed with this calibration?

Great. And is that cape still safe? Not clipped?

Yes, jpeg is what you need to upload a photo to the internet. That's not in question.

Calibrate every four weeks? To a print-matching result?

Yes, that problem. Follow the troubleshooter all the way to its conclusion.

I'm not concerned about how you saved it. I'm concerned how you edited it.

Ok, see what you think of this Levels layer: Red 0/0.75/255 and 75/255 Green 0/0.90/255 and 45/255 Blue 0/1.15/255 and 25/255