Damien Symonds

Look, until we have a basis for judgement, we can't tell what your prints should look like. We're flying blind here. Please order those prints. Is this the screen you get when you hit the "Print Settings" button?

I have always said this is a foolish course of action, and you're beginning to see why. Printing your own is an expensive, frustrating hassle. I wish you'd asked me before pursuing this. You HAVE to have a set of prints from a pro lab. Without them, you can't calibrate your screen. Prints from your own printer are NOT sufficient for checking screen calibration. Plus, you have absolutely no idea if your home printer is printing correctly without reference pro lab prints. Please order them immediately, and we'll continue this conversation once they arrive. Or, make the break now. Sell your printer to some other sucker, and rid yourself of this burden. Print at a lab, and get on with your business.

Oh, just one more question - your images print file when you send them to a pro lab?

Good. Welcome back to the real world. Please don't use that Export shit again. Now, back on topic. May I see a screenshot of your print settings window? The reason you can't find a straight answer to this is it's a complex issue. Do you have a specific profile for your printer/paper combination?

It's the same box. PLEASE stop using Export. Just use Save As like everyone else. Show me a screenshot of that.

Oh, gosh. WHY? Yes, correct. You must never uncheck that box, anywhere, ever. Oh, ok, gotcha.

First, a couple of questions arising from your screenshot ... Why are you showing me the "Export" window? For what purpose are you using that function? Why is the image showing as "Layer 0" in the Layers panel? Did this happen after you cropped? If so, it seems like you might have "Delete Cropped Pixels" unchecked in your crop tool options bar?

Can you tell me more about this?

Preview isn't colour-managed. Ignore it. Only browse your images with Bridge.

Oh crap, I forgot about the moire. Ok, there's another step we have to do. Underneath the D&B layer, add another Channel Mixer layer: R 0, +100, 0, 0 G 0, +105, 0, 0 B 0, +100, 0, +10 Make the mask black, then gently paint onto the moire areas.

Now that you have both screens calibrated, can you open a photo on both screens, then take a photo for me? So I can see the difference?

You can do anything you like

Thanks. Yes, White LED should be the correct settings, so it can't be that. With your recalibrations, have you now got the brightness exactly right? What luminance target have you calibrated to?

Just looks like a screensaver ... Can you do this? https://www.damiensymonds.net/thread1.html

On the manufacturer's website, I guess?

May I have a link to the specs of your screen?

No, choose what is appropriate for your screen. White LED is most likely correct, unless your screen is an older model?

You might need to try Method 2, if you haven't already done so.

On the first page, the luminance target. https://www.damiensymonds.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/08i1dp08.gif

@JenLewis?

How did you go?

Did he like it?

Give it a shot, and let me know. Remember there will be different instructions to follow.

Bummer. What about when you calibrate the laptop screen? Does the problem exist there too? (I'm trying to ascertain if the calibrator is faulty.)

Check your sorting. It sounds like you're not on Filename. No, sorry. This is a funny thing that Elements does, but PS can't. Elements automatically opens all images at full screen; where as Photoshop automatically at the next nearest standard zoom (66.67%, 50%, 33.33%, 25%, 16.7%, etc) below full screen. It has nothing to do with Bridge or ACR, by the way. It's the same if you're coming from LR.