Damien Symonds

Are you using this?

Yep, that's excellent. Really perfect. So there's no mystery here. You simply need to mask your sky layer a LOT more accurately along the roof line.

Yeah, no, that's useless. You HAVE to get the print.

No, that's not what Christina asked. We need to know the pixel dimensions.

No, that's the opposite of what I asked for

Copied and flipped the other eye, and rotated it into place. Then masked it. Then added a dodge and burn layer to make the shadowing look (hopefully) realistic.

Ok, that's excellent. Can you, for a moment, turn off the new sky layer, and show me how the photo looks with only that Levels layer turned on?

Ok, how about this?

No yelling here. Is the Levels layer for making the old sky white?

May I see a screenshot showing your layers panel?

How big is the brush you're cloning with? It should be at least as big as two baby toes.

Ok, then definitely re-read the Layers & Masks Class. I recently added a whole new module about this.

Have you read these? I beg you to consider my Layers & Masks Class. It's very cheap, and very comprehensive, and will teach you everything you need to know about this.

Oh gosh, don't try to clone precisely!!!!!! Use a big brush. http://www.damiensymonds.net/2010/10/role-of-masks-when-cloning.html

The blur looks good, but yes, definitely needs noise. Or take noise out of the other one, of course.

No, no, no, it's vitally important to NOT use soft-proofing in Photoshop at this stage, while you're testing labs. Leave it alone. http://www.damiensymonds.net/2014/07/proof-setup-working-cmyk-not-really.html

That's right, and the new updated content is SO much better than before.

Would you like to show us? I've got a bucket ready.

Great! That's good news. Darn. That's really bad news. As you've discovered, the Munki doesn't give you any latitude on the red-green axis. It's one place where the SpyderElite is superior the X-Rites. You might need to fiddle manually. However, I wouldn't do so until you've had the same photos printed at another lab.

Whoa. This is REALLY bad. Never make raw edits on tiff files.

By the way, when you click with the eyedropper, the word "Greens" is likely to change to "Yellows 2". That's ok.

Ooh. Ah. The grass is not your greatest problem here. Please refresh, I beg you.

Is the brightness accurate now?

Sure, just add a Hue/Saturation layer and go to "Greens". Then choose the little white eyedropper from the Hue/Sat panel, and click on some prominent green in your photo. Then it's merely a matter of fiddling with the three sliders to your (grotesque) taste. +40/+40/+65 looks completely hideous, so it's probably exactly what you want.

For.the.love.of.God. Have you, or have you not, followed my instructions? Not skimmed them, followed them? Every.single.word.