Damien Symonds

Where are you seeing this?

I don't understand what you don't understand? Did you read my article?

It's certainly not perfect, but it should prevent people from looking too closely at that area, and I figure that's all that's important.

Try this ... a Channel Mixer adjustment layer, with these values: Red 0, +95, 0 Green 0, +110, 0 Blue 0, +45, 0 Then invert the mask to hide the adjustment, then paint on gently with a low-opacity white brush.

Using a gradient layer to add some fake beams of light. Download the file here.

Actually, I'm a fan of LG screens. I've only used a couple of them, but I found them to be very good. That one looks good.

Well, you'll need photos of water from other pools, I figure. Either look through your own library of photos, or go to some stock websites to see if they have suitable ones.

http://www.damiensymonds.net/2012/01/light-around-your-computer.html

They are one way, yes.

Have you browsed the files in here? There are some gradients there. Or it's possibly you actually mean Gradient Maps?

No, there should be no difference from paper to screen. Either your screen is still too bright, or your room lighting is too dim.

Why not? What's wrong with them? What are their pixel dimensions?

Remind me which calibrator you have?

Sorry, I need a better explanation. Fill in these blanks: "My screen is __________ (colder/warmer) and ________________ (brighter/darker) than my prints"

http://www.damiensymonds.net/2015/08/about-jpeg-file-size.html Because there's not much detail in them. It's perfectly natural.

Gosh, that's odd. You might need to do this. Then calibrate again.

Ignore the before and after. Go to Photoshop now, and compare the screen to your pro lab prints.

And were you able to achieve each of those?

Normal gamut, White LED.

Can you check to make doubly sure that your print files are sRGB?

And what white luminance target did you set for the Munki? 100?

Can you visibly see the screen's brightness changing when you adjust it, though?

Of course there is. Either the Spyder5Elite or the X-Rite i1Display Pro are more powerful. But I am worried about this. I'd hate to see you buy a more expensive calibrator, only to find the same problems. It just sounds like a poor screen to me.

Have you checked that you have the very latest version of the converter? It's version 9.4.

Right.