Damien Symonds

I see nothing wrong here. Just normal raw noise. Easily removed in your software.

Yes, but that's only true if the designer's monitor is adhering to the international colour standards. That's where calibration comes in. Once the designer is calibrated, then they have ammunition in any arguments that inevitably arise about print quality. If a designer's screen isn't calibrated, and they get a print batch back from the printer, and the colours aren't what the designer wanted, they don't have a leg to stand on, you see? They don't know if the printer messed up, or if their own screen is wrong. Once they're calibrated, they can be confident that their screen is right; therefore they can take proactive steps to sort out the printing problem. This will usually involve correct use of CMYK profiles, but that's a conversation for a later time. I won't discuss that now.

Every workplace should have it. As long as they buy a top-line calibrator such as the X-Rite i1Display Pro, it can do as many computer as they need. This is an excellent idea, no drawbacks whatsoever.

Can you paint out the private parts before posting here?

May we see?

Well yeah, because I'm way outta ideas here, sorry.

That's right, nobody can.

Don't bother posting photos, it doesn't help a bit.

What do you mean by "got brighter"? When, exactly?

@kismet72, this is really really bad. You need to have at least 1/3rd free hard drive space at all times.

I'll be a hell of a lot less nervous once I know you are doing it. I shudder to think of all the damaged files you've already processed. Well, not processed.

it might have been this one?

Gee, it's supposed to be the least red of all the options. This is grim news.

Have you tried calibrating to 6500K? http://www.damiensymonds.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/13s4p08.gif

Never without at least doing this.

Can you describe the problem to me? In what way does the screen differ from the prints?

Make sure, though, that you only apply the filter just as strongly as you need, and no stronger. Applying the filter at the correct amount at 100% opacity gives different (and better) results than applying it overly strong at lower opacity.

No, it sounds like an excellent approach to me.

Sorry, Channel Mixer won't work here, because all the channels are damaged. The best I can suggest (and it's not particularly good) is Dust & Scratches filter at about 3/2, then the "Colour Fix" layer from the Handyman Method for the leftover bits of colour.

Hi Elke, what about the obstruction in the bottom left? Somebody's hair, I think? What's your plan for that?

Of course. Tools>Photoshop>Image Processor. I discussed Image Processor in this.

If the Quick Selection Tool works, that's great! (And surprising). For the times when it doesn't, this is the next fastest method. Just add a white Solid Color layer, invert the mask, then shift-paint around the edge and fill the rest with the paint bucket. Very fast.

Normal gamut and white LED.

Essentially, the D&S filter is a way of shortcutting the first part of this method. Now you can do the second part - the Hue/Saturation layer.

This is my usual go-to method for tan lines.