Brian

The WD 10TB is Partitioned correctly. I’m wondering if it’s some sort of Permissions issue with Photoshop / Bridge. I will need to get back to my computer to get you screenshots.

I just watched an install video for the M1 & M2 Macs using Paragon and Ventura. There are so many steps you need to do in order for it to work correctly AND it is imperative that you are using the absolute latest version. I could share the video and can't stop you from using Paragon, but in reality... We need to get Paragon off your computer and your external drives Mac Partitioned / Formatted.

Also, your macOS Ventura is out of date! They are up to version 13.4. Please upgrade your macOS! System Preferences >> Software Update: I'm for being Conservative and holding off on Operating System Updates, but there comes a point where you can cause WAY more problems by not updating; if you get too far behind, bad things can happen when you are forced to upgrade. Usually, people blame the OS Updates for their issues, but it reality, their computers are a complete mess and are unstable without them realizing it. Then the update stirs up existing problems.

I'm thinking this is the issue. Ventura has problems with HDs and older Paragon Software. Paragon and Ventura do not like one another. I keep seeing threads mentioning Paragon & macOS Ventura and weird stuff happening. Ventura does not like reading exFAT Drives or even dealing with NTFS Partitions with ones created by Paragon. Can you do a "Get Info" on that WD External Drive and post a screenshot? Hell, I'd like to know how your G-Drive is Partitioned. Do a Get Info on all external drives and post the screen shots. I'm thinking the easiest fix is for you to get that new G-Drive, BUT! We need to verify the Partition Type before you put any files on it. After we get the new EHD, and move files over, we need to delete Paragon from your computer.

Hook up the display to the HDMI Port. Hit the Fn Key + F8 to toggle between the internal and external display.

I answered your question in the original thread yesterday. Did you miss it? Click this:

After you get Big Sur installed, I would HIGHLY recommend purchasing CleanMyMac X to get rid of junk on your computer. You really don't want to go more than 75%-80% full on ANY Hard Drive, Internal OR External, when it comes to a Macintosh. If you fill your HDs, your performance takes a huge hit. Also, the more crap (files and folders) you have stored on your Mac Desktop, the slower the damn thing runs. So make sure your Desktop doesn't have 1000's of files on it. If it does, move them to a folder inside one of your Hard Drives.

Fantastic. Thanks for posting here. This is how you update to Big Sur and this REQUIRES SAFARI TO ACCOMPLISH. No other browser will work. Period. No Chrome, Firefox, Edge, whatever. It MUST be Safari only!! Copy and Paste the following URL into Safari: macappstores://apps.apple.com/app/macos-big-sur/id1526878132?mt=12 Or, click this Get Big Sur link in Safari. That link should open the App Store and take you to the Big Sur Download Page" It should Say macOS Big Sur at the top. Click the "Get" button, download the installer file, and go through the motions. I will warn you, this file is about 1GB in size and I would not have anything else open while you download this. No Netflix or Spotify or Facebook or E-mail. No 50 Tabs open in a Browser either, I don't care if they are all important. When it comes to a OS Upgrade, it should be you, your computer, and the OS Installer. That's it. Keep in mind that this is a OS Upgrade, so I'd check the software that you normally use to see if there are ANY updates that fix compatibility issues with Big Sur. There is one thing that has me concerned...your 16GB of RAM. What Make/Model/Screen Size is your Mac Desktop?

Nope. Not from Microsoft. So you have a couple of choices. Buy a physical copy from New Egg, and I would just get Windows 10 Pro and be done with it. Or go to one of those questionable sites and roll the dice...

Please keep in n mind that my default instructions were meant for Traditional Hard Drives, so you will see Mac OS Extended (Journaled) throughout the instructions. If you formatted things with the APFS Filesystem, that will appear in place of the Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) I need to write new instructions soon.

Part 2 Now the fun begins! Let's get that new Hard Drive prepped for use on the Macintosh!! Click your Applications Folder, then open Disk Utilities. Head to Applications Menu >> Utilities >> Disk Utilities. This is where your Disk Utilities might look slightly different. Anyway, here is mine: While in your Disk Utilities Module, please make note of any additional Hard Drives listed in the left column. Pay special attention to the Hard Drives listed under the "External" Section. For this process, it is much safer to only have one EHD Mounted / Listed! Select your new HD that you want to change, make sure you select the correct one!! Then click "Partition" up at the top and click the two arrows on the right where it says "Format." Select Mac OS Extended (Journaled) for Traditional / Spinning Hard Drives. External HDs that will be used for Time Machine Backups or ones that will be used on other Macs that could possible have older Operating Systems, should use Mac OS (Journaled). This Partition Type is more universal and is the most flexible. Choose APFS for Flash Based Media Drives, such as SSD or m.2 Drives. Do NOT choose Case-sensitive in either case, the normal / simple one is perfectly fine: Give the new External HD a obvious name: The Format will either be Mac OS Extended (Journaled) or APFS, which is based on the situation that I talked about above. Traditional / Spinning HDs or Time Machine Drives: Use Mac OS Extended (Journaled) SSD / m.2 Drives: Use APFS. Then click Apply. A Pop-Up Box will appear asking permission, click Partition or OK, or Apply. Let Disk Utilities do its thing... When completed, you should see "Operation successful" at the bottom. Click Done. Now the new External Hard Drive should appear on your desktop. If you want to verify things, Right-Click and select "Get Info." You should see the name of the HD and the Partition Type being Mac OS Extended (Journaled): Now you should be able to move a simple file to the new drive as a test and be able to read that file. Edited April 22 by Brian

Here are the instructions on how to Partition / Format a Drive for use on the Mac. Part 1 The first thing I want you to do, if you haven't already, is turn on the feature that allows you to see HDs and other "Mounted Devices" on your Mac Desktop. Open the Finder. The easiest way is to click the Smiley Face on your DockBar: Then head to the Finder Menu and select Preferences: Once there put checks next to these items and change the bottom to "Macintosh HD" if you want: From there, just click the Red Circle in the upper left corner to apply the changes. After you make this change, things like the Macintosh HD, any External Drives, Memory Cards from Cameras that are in a Card Reader and even portable DVD Disks will all appear on the Mac Desktop. This makes accessing them a breeze and is one of the things that has always puzzled me on why this feature isn't turned on by default. For example:

You almost got things working. Can you head into Disk Utilities and head to the Erase Tab? From there you should be able to erase and choose the following: Please give your EHD a name. Call it WD My Passport 1TB or whatever. Since it's a SSD, select the APFS for the file system. Then click Erase. Now! If you want to use this drive on another machine OR use this drive for Time Machine, we need to choose something else, and that's done under the Partition Tab. You can't switch from a drive that is set to APFS and convert it to Mac OS Extended (Journaled) which is the other Partition Type that's used on a Mac.

Thanks for posting here. Before we begin, will this drive be used for Time Machine Backups or just regular backups? I really recommend having a separate and dedicated EHD for use with Time Machine. Also, will this EHD be used with other Mac Computers?

Age has nothing to do with things in this case, well it does to a certain degree. It boils down to "Buy it Right - Buy it Once." If you have noticed I generally recommend spending a little more up-front to get better / beefier hardware; this is intentional, which in turn helps you down the line as software starts to overtake hardware in performance. The problem is, you bought a "3 Door Honda Civic Hatchback" and now need to go off-roading / driving through running rivers in the mountains. Your Hatchback has no problems getting you from your house to the Grocery Store and back, but driving through mud and rocks? You need a 4-Wheel Drive Vehicle that is suited for that sort of thing. It's not the Hatchback's fault, even if it is only 3.5 years old. It's just not meant for that sort of thing. Technology moves fast. 3.5 years is a whole product generation. The other main issue is, to keep people hooked on the Subscription Plan from Adobe, they are forced into pushing out new modules and features. Since Video Cards are REALLY GOOD at crunching numbers (which is why they are used for crypto-mining,) and creating graphics is all numbers, it just makes sense for Software Developers to utilize Video Cards. As time goes on, when it comes to Adobe's products, is they are relying more and more on the Video Card! In fact, in 2023 and beyond, THE CHOICE OF VIDEO CARD IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN THE CHOICE OF CPU!! The days of PS of running for YEARS are over. With each and every major update, one must check their hardware against the new software. More often than not, unless you bought a video card that has at LEAST 8GB of Video RAM, you are rolling the proverbial dice on whether things will work properly or not. Photoshop is a Professional Program. It's just so widely used that people forget that. If you want "Consumer Grade," that's PS Elements. But even then you still need a decent Video Card.

Apple Studio Display. Get it with Standard Glass and the basic tilt stand. I also recommend buying AppleCare. Yes, it pains me to recommend a Display that is $1600. (Plus Tax & AppleCare.) Apple is intentional with this; if you want that "Apple Experience" you are used to, you are going to fork out the money for it. Even the LG Display that Apple helped develop is expensive at $1200 or so. Everyone that I've spoken with or reviewed the display say it's "OK," or "I should have spent the extra $300 and went with the Apple Display. The good news is, this Apple Studio Display will give you options down the line. You can now buy another MacBook Pro or even a tricked out Mac Mini in a few years. So instead of forking out $4600-$4800 on a new Mac setup, you can spread the cost over a few years. But it's still way more expensive for what it is and this is done on purpose. It's only money, right?

Yippee!!! I'm glad you got things working. I hate having to waste/spend money if I don't have to. Now, my remarks stand; your video card's days are numbered. Hopefully things will work as it should, but now is the time to start saving for a new something. Whether that's a new computer or updated video card. I would also be reluctant to upgrade to a whole new version of Photoshop going forward. Sure, incremental updates / bug fixes and such are perfectly fine, but going from PS 24 CC to PS 25 CC more than likely will cause issues in the future.

ACR, Photoshop and Bridge are all separate programs. Normally, it’s best to have everything at the same level, but with crappy programming and under-powered hardware, you might be forced to mix-and-match. Having different versions isn’t causing your problem, your underpowered video card is. With each and every update to Adobe’s software, the more the hardware requirements increase as well.

…and this is a Hail Mary Pass. If ACR still doesn’t like your Graphics Card, you are either buying a new card, replacing your computer or downgrading Photoshop, ACR, and Bridge to an older version that last worked. You will then never upgrade to a new version of PS. The days of running a modern copy of PS on a 5 year old computer are over. It’s only money, right?

Ok. ACR relies on the GPU in order to function. So it’s complaining that it feels left out from not being added to the High Performance list. I’m not at my computer right now, but you will need to find the ACR.exe file (or whatever it’s called,) and add it to the high performance list just like you did with Photoshop.exe.

Head to Device Manager. I want you to take a screenshot of your Video Cards and post things here. The Intel one should be disabled. Second, I found this on Adobe's Website: Basically, you need to go into the NVIDIA Control Panel and add Photoshop.exe and sniffer.exe into the Program Settings. Then you change the graphics processor to High Performance. Third, here is the list of various video cards and their performance with Photoshop. Even though Adobe states that a score of "2000 or better" is all you need, I call Bullshit. That's like Microsoft stating that Windows 10 only needs 4GB of RAM or Windows 7 only needed 2GB. You and I both know that's for Windows functioning only, not running any real software with those amounts of RAM. In short, your Video Card is getting towards the bottom of the list and with each and every update that you do with Photoshop CC, pushes the card to not being compatible. It seems that your GTX 1060Ti only has a score of around 4300 or so; the video cards that I recommend which are the RTX 3070 and 3080 Series have scores between 12,000 and 16,000. Big difference. Fourth, this is the sneaky thing with Dell and other manufacturers. Sure it's a NVIDIA Card, but it may not be one with 100% of the horsepower of true NVIDIA cards you buy off the shelf. This saves the manufacturers money, but you get screwed in the end when software starts complaining. So in reality, if you can't get the drivers to increase performance of the video card to make Photoshop happy, chances are you are looking at replacing the video card and possibly the power supply to support the new video card. It's up to you if you want to throw $1000 or so in doing this to your computer. I usually recommend a 850 Watt Power Supply to go with a NVIDIA RTX 3070, NVIDIA RTX 3070 Ti or NVIDIA RTX 3080.

See these ports, ON THE NVIDIA CARD? Lets hook up the Monitor there and see if you get any sort of video. You have been plugged into the wrong video port probably since you first hooked up the computer. As far as the error message, we will jump off that Bridge next. One thing at a time.

…and that is the reason it’s not working. You are using the built-in graphics card, which is the Intel one you just disabled. No wonder that port isn’t working, you shut it off ‘ya Wally! (That’s Australian for Dork.)

I don’t have Amazon Affiliate links, that might be Damien. Honestly? The only displays that look good on Apple’s Products are Apple’s stupidly overpriced displays. (About $1600). So try it and report back. Have realistic expectations and plan on it not giving you the “Apple Experience” that you are used to. It might be fine or it might suck. So when you get it use it right away and take advantage of any return policies if needed.

First things first, HOW is your external display connected? Can you take a photo with your smartphone and post it? I’m thinking things aren’t hooked up correctly. Let’s start there.