Brian

Bummer. I just bought this pack: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1003354-REG I'd also take a flashlight and look to see if there are any bent pins in either the reader or camera.

I'm personally clinging onto Mavericks as long as I can. Honestly, unless you have a brand new iMac, you aren't missing that much. There are some programs that require Yosemite or later, but those are few and in between. Of course, no OS is immune from being outdated and replaced, but for now...stick with Mavericks. If by some miracle the PS black boxes issue is resolved, I will let everyone know and make a big stink about it.

Nope. Problems still exist. If you are on Mavericks, stay there. If you have the urge to upgrade, don't. Unless you enjoy hating life.

Give this page a read. I'm thinking "Solution B" is going to fix things. PS doesn't like your drivers and you'll need to check to see if there are any updated ones on Asus' website for your model.

I'm going to be cheeky on this one. This is what I did: http://bfy.tw/5ck4

The only pitfall is if there are any leftover bits or if you have a special photo that you know it's location in LR, but have no idea where it is on your HD. I'd open LR, give is a once over. If you see something important, right on the image and select "Show in Finder."

Here is Adobe's instructions on how to remove LR on a Mac: https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom/kb/manually-remove-lightroom.html#main_Remove_Lightroom_on_Mac_OS

It's a SWEET Display. I'm kinda sad that it has been discontinued.

I'd remove that Win 7 emulator 1st, and make sure you backup your important data on another HD. The majority of issues with Windows 10 Upgrades have to do with video drivers. So I'd look to see if there are any new drivers for your video card, download them and have them ready to install if needed. (Put the driver on the EHD with your backed up files.)

Refurbed monitors should be ok, provided they come with some sort of manufacturers' warranty. I don't like refurbished equipment that comes with a store's warranty, it's so easy to have a warranty claim denied. I mispoke earlier. Use the DVI port with the U2412m. New 2412 displays come with a (white) DVI-D cable.

If I had to choose between a Canon 5D Mark II and a 6D, it's a 60/40 split towards the 6D. The 6D is newer tech, but is an entry level FF body. I don't like spending $1400 on an "Entry Level" ANYTHING. It's meant to be outgrown. That said, since you are more of a hobbyist, it might fit your needs. The benefit to FF is the amount of coverage that the sensor records. Since its physically larger, more "stuff" is photographed. It has a wider angle of view and has a more natural 35mm look to it. There isn't a AOV change, so a 50mm lens acts like a normal wall-around lens, instead of a portrait lens. For that look on a FF body, you'll need a 85mm lens. In addition noise is easier to deal with, but crop bodies have come along way in that dept. I also personally feel that FF sensors produce a "cleaner" look to my eyes. Photos are more natural looking and less digital. But this is my own opinion.

The 70D isn't well regarded. You are better off with a 7D Your problem is like shopping for a tripod. There are three choices, Lightweight, Cheap, or Sturdy. Pick Two. Likewise, you want a lens that's portable, lightweight and has a fixed aperture. Pick Two. i understand wanting fixed aperture. All of my current zoom lenses that I used are f/2.8 and there is a difference. Another lens came to mind. How about picking up a used Canon EF-S 17-55 f/2.8? That is the "24-70" for crop bodies. The only downside is that it's a lens that is meant for crop bodies ONLY. On the upside, it's similar to the Canon 16-35 f/4's focal range and has f/2.8 at your disposal. KEH has a "Like New" 17-55 for $619: https://www.keh.com/shop/canon-ef-s-17-55-f-2-8-is-usm-standard-zoom-lens.html

If you are going to stay with a crop body, I'd get this one: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/351542-USA That said, this lens is more of an investment: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1051475-USA The problem with crop bodies and is you lose the "wide," due to the angle of view change. Your 24-70 acts like a 38mm - 112mm lens would on a FF body. Believe it or not, 24mm is "wide," you just need a FF body to take advantage of it. 16mm acts more like 25.6mm on a crop body, after the Angle of View Change So two choices: Lens or FF Body. I personally recommend a 5D Mark III if you were to upgrade. Since size might be an issue, and you might stick with a crop body, the 10-22 is in your future. If you do upgrade to FF, you already have a "Wide" lens, the 24-70.

I'd get the Dell U2412m Display and purchase a DisplayPort cable. The U2412m has a DisplayPort option on it.

I think the 2415 is just the current incarnation of the 2412. I've seen the U2412m in person at a photographer friend's house. It's AWESOME.

The U2412m display is an excellent choice, but has been discontinued by Dell. (It's a few years old.) So if you find one at a good price, I'd buy it. The other UltraSharps are also good. Just make sure the display is IPS Based and either is a Matte Screen or at the very least, a Matte Coating. You really want to avoid glossy screens. I wouldn't worry about the CIE 1976 color gamut. Or anything else other than sRGB. People obsess over the "Wide Gamuts" because they think it's better. In a sense, it is...but not in a real-world sense. Photographers who spend extra on a wide-gamut monitor and obsess over colors, only to hand over a disc / Thumbdrive of images, that will be displayed on the client's crappy screen...are kidding themselves. Same thing goes for those photographers who think AdobeRGB is the only way to go, but when they print their photographs, the labs that they use print using only sRGB colors, so prinrs don't always match the screen. Before you buy a monitor, what kinda of ports are on your video card? Also, a 16:9 is the same shape (aspect ratio) as a normal flat screen TV. (Oh, before anyone asks, NO...it is not a good idea to use your flatscreen as a monitor to edit on! Anyway, the 16:10 are a little bigger on the top and bottom. There is just more surface area. Honestly, 16:9 is fine. So is 16:10, but since you play games, I'd lean towards the 16:9 displays.

From the "What Specs to Look For" thread: What you are looking for is: i5 or i7 CPU 8GB RAM at a Minimum / 16GB RAM or more Preferred 1TB HD at a Minimum / 2TB or larger Preferred Dedicated Video Card with its own Video Memory. 2GB or 4GB of Video Memory is fine. Windows 7 64-bit Pro Edition OR Windows 10

That looks good. I'd buy it.

Just look at the technical specs of the Dell XPS 8900 and find a similar system.

Oh, I will need another photo of the right rear side (I wanna see the switches.)

Now back to Back Button Focusing. In my humble opinion, BBF is a technique, just like any other. I am of the opinion that one should learn proper technique and improve all aspects of your craft, not just use BBF because some website / photographer told you it was the "secret" to getting good photos. So let's get real for a moment. There isn't a damn "S-E-C-R-E-T" to sharp photos!! It's proper technique. Period. It's hand and elbow position. It's breathing patterns and thinking before you put that camera up to your eyeball. It's a whole way of thinking and doing. Sometimes, it's using a Tripod or Mono-pod. I feel so bad for the digital only shooters. I came from film. I didn't have 51 AF points. I had one...and manual focus at that. So you had to approach things differently. Now it's "Let me take 75 photos of my LUNCH!!! Just because..." Great Technique is being PROACTIVE. Unfortunately, people are usually reactive, and when it doesn't work well, they seem to find that the "Magical BBF Technique" is the solution to their problems!! I know, so-and-so swears by it and you wanna be just like her. (Not you personally, Krista. I'm speaking to the members who read these posts/rants of mine.) My point is does anyone ever stop to think that they are being lied to?!?! Seriously. I know several photographers who will push El-Cheapo Lights or Alien Bees and fail to mention that they use $2200 Profoto Lights and 7 Foot Modifiers. "All you need is a Bee and a Softbox to be like me!!" Buy my Workshop!! Buy my Wares!! You too can be an Amazeballz 'Tog like ME!!! For only $299.99...you can learn to turn on your camera! But wait, for an extra $200 you can learn how to click the shutter button AND change your Aperture!! C'mon Moms!!! Build confidence in shooting in Manual!! For only $300!! (OK, I'm ranting and need to real myself in. LOL!!) My point is, I think its a good idea to have you learn to use your camera without BBF. The first step is having your camera setup properly. So have you read your manual? What are your current settings, starting from A1?

The problem you are describing is the nature of FX. The AF points are not spread out like on a DX body. The reason? It's because the DX sensor is physically smaller. The AF point positions are relatively the same, it's just the FX sensor is physically larger so that the AF Point Markers in the viewfinder tend to cluster in the center. BBF is not the end-all-and-be-all of what people make it to be. It doesn't always work. *GASP* For some people, it works for them and they can produce great photos with it. Most of the time, it's just the "Herd" that follows the #Amazeballz Photographer at CutesyNamePhotography who swears by it,or the Blogger who wants easy traffic driven to their website. "Hmm...I don't have anything to post! I know, I will do an article on the "Secret to Sharp Photos!! Back Button Focusing!!!" More on the BBF below... Bomber...until you have shot with a camera that does 7-8fps or more, you won't really have an idea of what I'm talking about. Since you are shooting portraits and seniors and not sports, you probably won't miss it. Here is a D4s, in machine gun mode. Each one of those clicks is a photograph. Compare that to the click-click-click-click-click of the D810. LOL!! Cameras like the D4s and D5 and even the older D4 / D3s are much faster. They think "quicker" because they are designed to be. Just like a fighter jet. It just shoots and shoots and shoots. That said, for what you are shooting...you do not need a D4s or D5 camera. I shoot Sports in addition to Weddings and Portraits. So for me, my needs are different.

If a 27" Display is too big for you, the the Dell UltraSharp U2414H is also a good choice.

I like both. Good choices. The ONLY thing that you would need to buy is a mouse. That one that comes with the Dell is terrible for photo-editing. You would want a nice mouse. Which one? Head to a store that has them on display and give them a test drive. This is personal experience type of thing and one I can't decide for you. What feels comfy in my hands may not in yours. I will tell you that Microsoft and Logitech are good brands to start with.

In all honesty, that Dell at Best Buy is a pretty decent deal. Spec-wise you wouldn't have to upgrade anything right away. As far as viruses, they are sooo 1990's. People don't get viruses anymore, the term "Virus" is like saying, "...I got stung by a Bee." Hmm...did the person get truly stung by a Bee or was it a Wasp? Nowadays, people get Malware, Trojans, Keyloggers, Ransomeware and other nasty things, not true Viruses. To get the best protection, you need the paid versions of software. I like the paid version of Malwarebytes that does real-time monitoring. I also like the paid version of AVG. I've also heard of good things about Kaspersky and it really plays well with Windows 10. Keep in mind, this is just a layer of protection, no software is fool-proof, but it's better than having nothing.