Brian

Honest answer? I have no idea. I'm thinking it's your Video Card's Drivers that might be the culprit. You may want to see if there are any updates for it, but it looks like the last driver was dated in 2019, so it's been "Orphaned." That said, the NVIDIA GeForce GT 640 was a really low-end graphics card when it was new so you may not be able to get it working with a program that was made in 2022. If this is a laptop, you are looking at a new laptop. If this is a desktop, you are looking at a new video card and possible power supply upgrade. Either way, it's not going to be cheap.

Here is the RAM: 2020 27" iMac - Crucial RAM Upgrade Kit from B&H You can upgrade to 72GB for $250 or upgrade to 40GB for $125. What would I do? 40GB is "Fine," but if you are ever planning on upgrading to a camera that has 45MP or more, you'll want that 72GB (64GB Upgrade Kit.) Buy it Right, Buy it Once. You might regret $250 at this very moment, but in 5 years...you won't. Oh, I'd also still keep the existing Apple RAM, you will just move the existing RAM to the slots that are currently empty and install the Crucial RAM in the slots that the two 4GB sticks occupies. That's how I get 40GB and 72GB, we are keeping the existing RAM. Use a Thunderbolt Port to HDMI or DisplayPort Adapter. Here is one. Which adapter you purchase depends on what monitor you get. It's either going to be a USB-C to HDMI or DisplayPort in 2022/2023.

That CPU should support Intel Quicksync. But getting it to work seems to be a issue of it’s own. I’d still upgrade the GPU to the card you were thinking of.

That could be a problem. Not all Xeon CPUs are that great at Transcoding. Some are though. That said, yes the NVIDIA GTX 950 does support NVENC and NVDEC, so that will definitely help, just as long as your Plex Server Software is setup properly. Some info: https://help.livestream.com/hc/en-us/articles/360002071627-How-Do-I-Know-if-My-GPU-Supports-NVENC-and-NVDEC-

Plex Servers, I’m in the investigating phase of building my own. I thought about going with a Synology NAS, but haven’t pulled the trigger. I will more than likely build my own NAS at some point. Why? Spinning HDs in a cheap plastic enclosure are LOUD. So I will more than likely use a Micro Case and use FreeNAS or something. Post a new thread with your NAS question. Honestly? I’d stay where you are PS CC-wise, because if you do upgrade, you are definitely buying a new video card. speaksing of which, I’d go with a GTX 2060. Hopefully you can get one with 8GB of dedicated Video RAM, maybe 6GB. Basically, buy the biggest and the best you can afford.

Oops. Too many Mac Laptops. LOL!

Perfect!!! The only thing you need to do at this point, is to create a file-structure / directory tree / hierarchy that makes sense to you. Take this time to organize your folders so your files have a place to go to. The worst thing you could do right now is do a data dump and have crap all over the place. A file should take no more than 2-3 Minutes TOPS to find. Enjoy your purchase!

First, I'd return that drive. Something isn't right. It could be the G-Drive or even your Motherboard since we are now tapping into its full potential. Basically, you've had an existing problem that you never knew about and now it's too late to do anything about it. As far as using a TB3 port over a USB-C 3.0, that's more about throughput (speed) than anything. Thunderbolt 3's speed is 40Gbps vs 5Gbps. So using a Thunderbolt Port with an external is like using an internal drive, because TB3 is so much faster. This is what I want you to do: Exchange the Drive. If the new drive does the same thing, then you have a problem with that 2018 MacBook. In which case, I'd just use the USB-C Ports and get any important data off that old laptop, because that motherboard could also develop more problems and then you are screwed. I'm really thinking that 2018 Mac Laptop has issues, since your brand-new laptop works fine with the TB3 ports on the G-Drive. It "could" be a compatibility issue, but this is 2018 we are talking about, not a date like 2011. It should work.

Not sure about scanning your Cloud, it's plausible if a local copy is on your computer somewhere and the folders are synced. There is a program, called Gemini 2 or Gemini II from MacPaw. These are the same people who make "CleanMyMac X." I believe there is a Windows Version. More info: https://macpaw.com/gemini Now about deleting things one by one, you may not get around that entirely, but I'd try Gemini 2 and see if that does something for you.

If you are using the current version of PS CC, then it might be worth upgrading, since Photoshop uses the GPU for a performance boost. Especially for fancy things like Liquidfy and Content Aware, and some of the Lens Correction things, I believe. Now if Photoshop CC is really lagging and it's complaining about the Video Card and/or Video Drivers, it's something to pursue. Now should you? My opinion is mixed. When you upgrade your Video Card, there is a good chance that you will also need to upgrade the power supply. (Especially if you are only around 300 Watts or so for your power supply.) Plus, your Motherboard is kinda dated and your budget of $300 I'm concerned about; I just have a sneaky suspicion you are gonna blow right through that $300. The truth is, things are just more expensive across the board. I believe the NVIDIA 4000 series have finally hit the shelves, so a Card like a NVIDIA GTX 3070 8GB (My absolute favorite card, BTW,) prices should come down in the next few months. If you go the new PC Route, your budget needs to be closer to $3000. Of course, you can find deals now and should be able to get something around $2600 or so, but plan on a $3000 Budget in 2022/2023 for a new computer to be on the safe side. Bottom Line: I'd keep saving at this point.

First, head to the Finder and open it. Then once it's opened, click the Finder Menu and select "Preferences." Once the Preferences is opened, make sure "External Disks" is checked. (Or just set it up the way I have mine.) Click the Red Circle when completed. Now your Macintosh HD, and any External Hard Drive (and DVD, and Memory Card, etc) should appear on the desktop. Now simply plug-in the G-Drive, if it's a Thunderbolt Model, use the Thunderbolt Port on the PC. Likewise, if it's a USB Model, use a USB 3.0 Port. Basically we want to utilize the fastest port available on your computer. Chances are it's a 7200RPM Model, so you will have to plug it in as well. I'd hook the drive up to the computer, plug the power in, then flip the switch. Wait about 10 or so seconds and the drive should appear on the desktop. Select the EHD by left-clicking once, then right-click and select "Get Info." Post a screenshot of the results here in this thread. Or if you don't want to go through that trouble, what I'm really interested in, is the "Format" type of that drive. We want it to say "Mac OS Extended (Journaled)" If yours is setup that way, give the G-Drive a Name, I called mine "G-Drive 12TB," you can name yours to whatever you want, just make things easy and keep the name simple. If it says "Mac OS Extended (Journaled)," you are good-to-go. If ANYTHING else is there, like exFAT...then we need to do stuff. But I'm 99% sure you won't have to do anything.

Yeah, it’s just the specs that I saw. Always research before buying. If you are switching to Mac, Apple makes things very easy to migrate over. It’s just when you want to go back to Windows or use both platforms at the same time is when you run into trouble. Also, on the Mac side, expect to pay around $4300 for a Mac Laptop and $5200 for a Mac Desktop that’s “Good for Photo Editing.” Welcome to 2022 / 2023 pricing. It sucks to be in the market right now.

Here is my Donation Link: https://www.paypal.com/donate/?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=HVQ98TKLAZGVY&source=url

Ok. So are you staying Mac or going to Windows? Yes, the problem with computers today is we are still dealing with a chip shortage. It’s gotten better, but the issue is…if you see something, meets the requirements, no thinking it over-BUY IT! Chances are it will be gone in a few weeks being replaced by something else or nothing at all. Which puts you back to square one. Fun Times. Basically, you can take the above specs that I gave the green light on and find a similar configuration. It doesn’t have to be Dell. i also like the Digital Storm Lynx Line. Here is one for $1699 that is “Good for Photo Editing.” https://www.digitalstorm.com/configurator.asp?id=4387425 pair that with a decent IPS monitor and a current calibration tool, and you have a nice system for way less than $3000.

But the G Drive connects to your new MBP via Thunderbolt with no issues?

I found something interesting!! The Ports on the left of the 2016 MacBooks are different than the ones on the right. It seems that you want the laptop to be plugged in and use the TB Ports on the left with your G-Drive. The article just mentions a 13” MacBook, but I have a sneaky suspicion your Mac Book might fall under similar circumstances, especially if the power output is differs on the right side, 7.5W vs the Left Side, 15W. https://gadgets360.com/laptops/news/apple-says-not-all-thunderbolt-3-ports-on-the-13-inch-macbook-pro-2016-are-equally-fast-1586985 Let’s try hooking the G-Drive up to one of the TB3 Ports on the left side of that laptop and use the TB3 port on the G-Drive.

Ok, the Thunderbolt Ports on the G-Drive, there are two of them. They have a picture of a Lightning Bolt above them and are in the rectangular circle. There is a single USB-C port to the left. (I know…DUH!) This laptop. Is it your 2018 Mac Book or is it something else? What make/model/year? This is the one you have issues with? Or is it working? In reality, we want to use the TB port on the drive, (I use the left TB3 port and will use the Right TB3 Port to hook up to another TB3 drive,) and use a TB3 port on the computer for the fastest transfer speeds.

Take a photo of the back of the G-Drive, the ports on your laptop and post them here. I’m good, but not that good…I need to see.

That G-Drive has its own power. All 7200 RPM Drives need more power. The slower 5400 RPM drives can usually work without AC Adapters. I know people have love-affairs with laptops, but unfortunately, people tend to use them as desktop replacements. Combine that with Manufacturers cutting corners and you may not be able to use a hub, regardless what you buy because your laptop has limits. You’d think otherwise, because that’s logical, but USB-C is still kinda new on the scene (though it’s getting better) and hopefully manufacturers will start beefing up the USB-C ports, because there are variations of it. For example, your laptop might only want one device at a time hooked up to it, since the manufacturer cut corners and it doesn’t have enough power. You as a photographer might want to hook up a card reader and theee external HDs at the same time. There may not be any resources available to drive 4 devices. It should, but like I said, it doesn’t always work. I hate laptops.

Oh! I know what you did! You went from Thunderbolt on the computer to USB C on the drive. Yeah, don’t do that. 😄

To be honest, im surprised there aren’t more available. Plenty of USB 3.0 Powered Hubs, but no USB-C. If the hub is causing issues, don’t use it. (Obviously.) There is a lack of choices on this side of the world, but I found this one: Satechi 4-Port USB-C Hub – Data Transfer Only (No Charging/Video) – Compatible with 2021 MacBook Pro M1 Pro & Max, 2020 MacBook Air/Pro M1, 2021 iPad Pro M1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Satechi-4-Port-USB-C-Hub-Compatible/dp/B09BNXMHSL/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?crid=39GFEKE8AFPIF&keywords=satechi+usb+c+hub&qid=1662918231&sprefix=satechi+%2Caps%2C221&sr=8-18# Now, if you still have issues, I’m going to assume that your USB C port on your computer can’t handle multiple devices or doesn’t have enough power to support them. In which case you are looking at a new computer.

It’s possible. You could have issues with your older MacBook and the Thunderbolt ports. It wouldn’t surprise me. MacBooks…I’m not a fan, but people have this love-affair with them. I’d use the USB 3.0 ports on your older laptop. It will take longer to transfer data, but it should work. If you still have issues, I’m wondering if there is unknown issues with your older computer.

We don't have to do anything. The G-Drive is perfectly setup for use on your Mac. "Format: Mac OS Extended (Journaled)" is what you want. Each EHD, going forward, will be set to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) YOU DO NOT NEED PARAGON TO READ ANY WINDOWS DRIVE. THE MACOS WILL READ A WINDOWS DRIVE WITHOUT ISSUE, IT JUST WILL NOT WRITE TO IT! Paragon is required if you are reading / writing data for use on BOTH a Mac and a Windows Machine. Apple wants you to switch to a Mac from Windows, so they make it REALLY EASY TO. I feel you have done some over-thinking and that is causing issues (your "Paranoia" will be your un-doing. While it's fine to be Paranoid, not having things setup correctly and doing what you have been doing will eventually cause you to lose data!) Before we continue, I want you to do what you did above and let me know what FORMAT is for each of your externals. You don't have to do screen shots, just type the HD Name and what it is. We may have to copy a HD large enough to your new G-Drive 1st, eject it and then hook it up to the Windows Computer. At that point we will nuke the drive. Then start migrating your Windows files to it. After which, THAT drive will be hooked up to the Mac, without Paragon getting in the way. (I swear, that program works well most of the time, but it isn't bullet-proof.) Before we do anything I want to see how each of your drives is setup. If one doesn't read on the Mac, that's fine, move onto the next. Then I want you to create a list of which drives will mount on the Mac and which ones will only work with a Windows Computer. We need to take inventory before we attempt anything. Also, have sticky notes handy and put one on each drive so you can keep them straight. Give the EHD a name, and then write "Mac" "Win" or "Both." Then get back to me. PS: Get rid of Paragon! I want that program gone from your Mac!

I have no idea what you did. What model is this? What Mode are you in? Full Manual? Shutter Priority? I can't duplicate this on my camera. Are you in any Live View Mode?

Try the other drive on the TB3 port for a few days. If it doesn’t crash, contact G-Drive. It should have a year warranty at the very least. Fortunately you can get to the drive via USB to transfer your images to the new drive. Also, you can hook up the drive to the TB3 port again to produce the error message. Then snap a photo with your phone. You want as much evidence as possible and tell them it seems to be an issue with the TB3 port on the drive? It works fine via USB and you other G-Drive works fine on the TB3. Basically you just want them to swap out the drive. Some of them might have a 5 year warranty. Here is info: https://www.westerndigital.com/support/store/warranty-policy/g-technology Sandisk owns Western Digital, and WD owns G-Drive.