Brian

Hey Shawn, another member posted this Dell XPS from Office Depot and is in sale: https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/4848446/Dell-XPS-8930-Desktop-PC-8th/ $799.99. I know you want more power and room, but for $800, it’s something to consider.

First of all, THANK YOU for reading the previous threads so I don’t have to repeat myself. Second, enjoy your purchase. That Dell XPS from Office Depot is fine.

You can Google $500 Gaming PCs, but they generally tend to have Intel i3 CPUs in them, which you do not want. At the very least, an Intel i5 will be fine. I did see this video card: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202278&cm_re=radeon_rx_580-_-14-202-278-_-Product You can get Display Port to DVI cables, so that's not a huge issue. I think Monoprice.com has them. Here is a decent Power Supply: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6ZP3R88416&cm_re=800_watt_power_supply-_-17-438-018-_-Product

You need a new motherboard with CPU, RAM, video card and most likely, a new power supply. In a nutshell, a whole computer. The new video card might have bigger power requirements and if you plan on adding more traditional HDs, that also has to be taken into account. I'm thinking 800 Watts for the P/S is a good number for you. Unfortunately, your budget is going to kill you. I've been in the market myself for a Windows 10 Pro Machine and I was planning on building one. (Need to brush up on my skills, it's been awhile since I've done this when I switched to Mac in 2009.) The problem is, each time I configure something, the price is $2000. Of course, I'm building a PC that should last 7+ years, and have expensive tastes, so I'm hitting that price-point which I don't want to spend. I want things to be cheaper. You could get something like a Dell XPS base-model for about $800 or so, but of course that doesn't include a decent video card. You might just want to upgrade your Power Supply and Video Card for now, then save up some more and get the motherboard, CPU and RAM next year. Oh, speaking of RAM, prices have been insanely high and they just came down a little bit. (About $20-$25 less than what they were a few months ago.) Oh, one more question, how is your computer case? Is it a generic one that takes all different kinds of motherboards and such? Or is this a store-bought PC that doesn't give you many mounting options?

One more thing. Since it’s crooked, I’m thinking you ar jamming your finger on the shutter button a bit too hard. LOL! I do it all the time. The other thing to check is what VR mode are you set to. It should be set to “On” and “Normal” for the Shutter Speed you were set to. If it’s the new 70-200 FL, VR normal should be chosen. Make sure it’s not set to “Action” or “Sport.”

Focus is fine. If they were moving, even slowly, it’s better to have the camera set to AF-C. It sounds like you shoot Nikon. Since you are worried about focus, set the A1 and A2 menus to “Focus Priority.” Meaning the camera will not take the photo unless it feels that things are in focus. Also, this is a zoom lens, and while your focus is fine...it’s not a prime lens. You aren’t going to get that wow factor or “...damn that’s sharp” feeling. You will need to tweak sharpness in PS.

Focus looks good. The eye is a tad sharper than the dress but not by much. Lenses are usually not at their best wide open. I'm never at f/2.8 on my 70-200, I've found that f/3.2 is more forgiving and I shoot mostly at f/4 if I want "SHARP." Keep in mind that not all focus points are the same. The better ones are known as "Cross Type" and the strongest AF Point is the center one. There needs to be enough contrast swing for the AF system to lock on. So standing 20-30 feet away zoomed in on someone's eyeball may not yield the best results. That is the limitation of a Phase-Based AF system and not the Photographer. As far as your camera is concerned, it has no idea it's an eyeball, and it needs to be sharp; it's just a darker spot against a bigger blob. Speaking of Photographer: If someone shoots with a 70-200 on a crop body, they will find that most, if not all photos are sharp @ f/2.8. When they upgrade to a full frame body, you do not produce the same results. There is a Angle of View Change between Crop and Full Frame. Since the Crop Sensor is physically smaller than a full frame one, it's only using the center-most portion of the lens, which is the best part of the lens. f/2.8 on a crop body is more like f/4 on a full frame camera; people just don't know how shallow f/2.8 is until you get a Full Frame Camera. Crop Bodies allow you to "F2.8-All-the-Things." ? So if you are finding that this photographer is blowing shots, I suggest that they should stop down slightly and see if things improve.

I like the Asus Republic of Gamers line when it comes to laptops for photo editing. Here is one that meets all my specs and has a Matte IPS display panel: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1398212-REG/asus_fx504ge_bs73_i7_8750h_8gb_1tb.html The only thing I don't like about that laptop is the 128GB SSD drive but it does have another traditional HD built in. At 128GB, you are really looking at Windows only, maybe install Photshop on the main drive, but configure the scratch drive to be on the D Drive / Second HD. Keep in mind, that finding a decent laptop these days is tough and it's getting tougher to find a good one. They are all crap, made from cheap plastic and are replaced so frequently. That link I posted in this thread is probably good for a week or so. Maybe a month before that laptop is "Discontinued." Anyway, I'd start with a Asus ROG laptop and work from there.

By doing that, you got 8 years out of your current setup! If you go cheaper, and less horsepower, you will end up replacing sooner rather than later. By going the cheaper route, you will end up spending more money in the same time period. For example, spend $800 now for a cheap setup instead of say a budget around $1200-ish. Then in four years, spend another $800. So within a 7-8 year time frame, you could spend $1200 or $1600. Something to think about. Plus figure in the hassle of transferring brushes, data, actions, e-mail, favorites, etc. from one computer to the other. Desktops will still give you the best bang for the buck. I personally do not recommend laptops for photo-editing but I got tired of arguing. To get a decent setup for a laptop for photo editing, your price-point should be around $1500. Your could get a desktop / monitor combo for hundreds less. What is the tough part about laptops is finding one with a IPS screen and they are built for portability and to conserve power. So unless you buy a gaming laptop to get more horsepower, the components of a $500 laptop won't be of optimum performance. That said, it also depends on what type of photos you take, what kind they are (single-frame vs multi-photo panoramas) and how many you edit at one time. For a person that edits one or two photos at a time will have different needs than someone who batches photos 50 at a time. So I guess the next step is telling me more about what your expectations are and you can poke around the what-to-buy threads here. In a nutshell at a minimum: Intel i7 or i5 CPU 16GB RAM (32GB Preferred) 1TB Main Hard Drive (The bigger the better) A video card that has its own dedicated video memory - 2GB Video RAM at a Minimum (8GB Preferred) Video Card that has a digital connector / port ( DVI [Good] - HDMI [Better] - DisplayPort [Best] ) Windows 10 IPS Display Panel with a Matte Coating or Matte Panel. 24" is a good size to start with.

Single point Auto Focus. Either in Continuous Focus Mode or Single Focus Mode. Meaning...you pick the AF point and the camera doesn’t argue / pick something different. With your Sony, even if you pick the AF point, if the camera finds something better to lock on (has more of a contrast swing) it will lock onto that, without you knowing. Hence the reason that the light over the Drummer’s head is in focus. Your Nikon lenses are ok but at 50mm and 28mm you are kinda limited. Give this a read: http://www.dslrbodies.com/lenses/lens-databases-for-nikon/thoms-recommended-lenses-2.html

Before buying anything.... Download the Sony A7iii manual and give it a read. If the focusing system is similar / has the same choices, then it doesn't do you any good by upgrading to a Sony A7iii. What Nikon FX Glass do you have? The D810 / D850 is quite demanding and requires the best glass to yield the best results. So let me know what lenses you plan on using/own.

You mean recently updated your Mac OS to Mojave? (iOS is for Phones and Tablets) If so, yes, grant it access. I think Apple has tightened security in which how Apps have access to the operating system and Adobe PS needs to be updated to play by the new rules. From what I've read, it is very important to make sure your Photoshop CC 2018 is the latest version before upgrading to Mojave. For now, there is work-around: Close Photoshop Open System Preferences / Click the Gear on your Dockbar Open Security and Privacy (Top Line - Towards the Right) Select the Privacy Tab Select Acceptability on the list in the left column Click the Pad Lock at the bottom of the left column to make changes. Enter your Admin Password when prompted Photoshop should be in the list, put a check in the checkbox next to it to allow access Click the Red Circle in the upper left corner to close the window and apply the changes Open Photoshop

Oh, if you do get a D700, pickup a couple of these: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1003355-REG

$648 for a “EX Rating” D700 https://www.keh.com/shop/nikon-d700-12-1-megapixel-digital-slr-camera-body-only.html The D700 is decent up to ISO 6400.

Your D90 is too old at this point. It falls apart above ISO 800. Not a good thing in clubs and concert venues The D850 is amazing, but raw files are HUGE due to the 45MP. Plus the D850 has been on back-order in the US forever. The D810 isn’t bad either. Either case, the technology is light years ahead of your D90. Nikon is trying to kill stock so the D810 has instant rebates. Keep in mind, there are lenses to buy, memory cards to buy, extra batteries and other odds and ends Heck, I’m thinking you could pickup a Used D700 from Keh.com. The D700 uses the same batteries and such as your D90 and all you would need is CF cards and full frame glass. D700 bodies go for about $800 right about now. Oh, if you are wondering about the D750, great sensor. Produces great images. Build quality is crap and it has had multiple recalls over the years. I really wish they would put a D750 sensor in a D810 body, but that’s not going to happen. Nikon is all Mirrorless Happy with their new Z-Line release.

Yeah, I'm thinking you need to either "Go-Big-or-Go-Home" with your current needs. It's one thing picking a $500 display and be happy with it, it's another thing wasting $500 and "...why did I not just spend the money on the better monitor and be done with it?!?!!" If you are shooting / editing professionally, I always recommend the professional tools. Sure, you can do things with less, but it's a whole lot easier when you have the right equipment. Take my Nikon D4s. Sure I could and have shoot weddings with my D300s, heck I started out with a Minolta X-370 film camera at 19 with my 1st Wedding. The D4s doesn't fight me and is always ready for the next shot. I would hate to go to a lower-end body, I'm spoiled now. There is a difference working with Pro-Grade Gear. Whatever you do, make sure you are using a DisplayPort or HDMI cable for you new display. To get the best contrast, color, sharpness you need a digital connection. Analog VGA (15 Pin D-Sub) just doesn't cut it. At the very least, use a DVI-D cable.

The Nikon D810, D850 are awesome for Concert Photography. I'm sure a Canon 5D Mark III and Canon 5D Mark IV are also decent.

Flexible Spot Lock On AF (Bottom One) is the one that gives you the most control. That said, the camera can still pick something easier to lock on. It doesn't seem to have a focus mode like what is on a Canon or Nikon body. In a nutshell, I'm not liking your choices.

Oh, if you are serious about video and shoot professionally, I would just buy a new iMac Pro. LMAO. Give this video a watch, plus I did a little digging, this is the curved LG Display that he uses for his Windows Rig: LG-38UC99-W. Granted, it's way more than you are looking for, but I'm thinking you should be looking at what is the best display for editing video, still image editing requires a lot less performance from your display.

Like I said before, I wouldn't buy either of those monitors that you linked to. I don't care if it's on F-Stoppers. The light-bleed seems to be a bit too high and it's not consistent. I think you need to search a bit more. 4K video is the normal for today and 8K is on the horizon. Followed by 16K and 32K over the next decade. If you are editing video, you really should set your sights on a decent display AND video card to support that display. $500-$700 seems to be typical for something decent, display-wise. Honestly, since you do edit video, I think two 24" displays might work a bit better for you. Manufactures today spit out more product and options than ever before. If you wait another couple of months, there will be a whole other batch of displays to choose from. Back in the day, I would typically recommend a Dell U2412m Display, it was a great monitor, I had friends in real life buy them and have used them. It was uniform and had no light bleed. Back in the day, it was a GREAT display. It was like a Canon 5D Mark II camera, it was fancy enough to get the job done, but was affordable. Now from what I've seen, things are just made cheaper across the board. Meaning, don't think that Eizo hasn't cut corners either. The phrase, "They don't make them like they used to..." is more true today than years before. It's all a crap-shoot. That's why I pay attention to the reviews that are either lower in stars or ones that have problems. (I discard the bad-reviews for DOA products. Of course they are going to give it 1-star, it was damaged / broken in shipping.) Like Damien, all I can advise you on is based on my personal experience and what our members report back on. I wish there was a display that was the "Magic Bullet;" meaning everyone buy this ____________ monitor it's amazing. I wish there was something better that I could recommend.

Oh, and let us know what you end up buying and what your experience is. The feedback that we get from the members is usually what gets us recommending stuff. I like suggesting equipment that either I have personal experience with or from several members raving about a certain piece of equipment. That's how I know that BenQ monitors can be a bit of a pain to calibrate; feedback in FB Ask Damien and posts / complaints from the members is what led to this statement/opinion.

The problem is, Damien and I aren't a Review Channel on YouTube. We don't get monitors sent to us for free to review. Honestly, I wouldn't buy either of those monitors you linked to. Yes...uniformity is what you are after and is the reason that we recommend IPS screens. They are supposed to be uniform, or at least have the best chance of uniformity, vs a TN Display Panel. BenQ Monitors are difficult to calibrate and the one you linked to comes with it's own software to calibrate it. I'm not so sure about being locked into a complete system like that; especially if you can't get your prints to match the screen. My advice, pay attention to the reviews and go hunting. Take each review site with a grain of salt. Remember, there is always a possibility of them getting money for an endorsement / review. I know, this doesn't answer WHAT monitor to buy and not there are so many choices these days, it's hard to decide on one. If we do, it's replaced within 3 months. Here is one that is decent: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-UltraSharp-U2414H-Screen-Monitor/dp/B00GTV05XG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538708994&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Dell+IPS+2711H Another model that has great reviews: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0199W9UMS/ref=emc_b_5_i In either case, do not use a 15-Pin VGA / D-Sub Cable (Blue Connector) with today's fancy screens. It's much better to use a Digital Connection, DVI, HDMI or DisplayPort instead of the old Analog VGA connector, that dates from 1989.

Same area, just during Sunrise:

One last shot, probably similar to what you are going to photograph. This is the Grand Canyon at Sunset taken with my 24-70 f/2.8:

Another shot taken with my 24-70 and CP, this is a huge crop as I snapped this from a moving Tour Bus. There are heads to the left and right of this photo: Speaking of heads, I need to tweak this photo. I have some cloning to do on the right side. Ooops.