Brian

Yeah, I'm in the same boat. I think I'm going to end up building my next computer. If you go the Intel route, get a Intel Core i7-7700 @ 3.6GHz CPU. If you do end up getting a AMD-based Computer, make sure it has a AMD Ryzen 7 2700X @ 3.7GHz CPU chip in it. Those two chips are each others equivalents. At this point, deciding on what chip you will purchase will determine what motherboard you will use. I like Asus Motherboards. Gigabyte Motherboards aren't bad either. I've used both. After choosing the Motherboard, you then can buy the RAM that is meant for it, which is the next step: 16GB RAM at a Minimum. 32GB Preferred. Then we pick the HD: 1TB Main HD for the OS and Programs and then a second larger hard drive, like 4TB for your data. Some folks will buy a SSD drive like this one. Others will opt for a drive like this WD PCIe m.2 Drive, or this Samsung NVMe SSD Drive. I highly recommend a Western Digital Caviar Black 7200RPM drive if you go the traditional route for your main boot drive. Power Supply, 750 Watts these days is good. If you get a video card that requires a lot of "Umph," maybe a 850 Watt P/S would be better. Oh, there is the cooling system you will need to consider, along with the computer case. Video Card: Here is Adobe's List of tested cards. I'd get at least a 4GB Card and one that was made around 2015 or newer.

If you want the best color, contrast and sharpness, today's fancy screens require a digital connection. So just having a VGA Port just doesn't cut it. You have no idea on what you are missing out on. So I would budget for a new display if you don't have any other ports than a 15-pin VGA connection. The VGA port has been around since 1989. Manufacturers don't have to pay royalties on that technology anymore, which makes their COGS lower and results in more profit. VGA is fine for general computing and web browsing. For editing photos, notsomuch. In fact, VGA was only meant to go up to a 20" CRT (Tube) Display. Not a Flatscreen. Once you see the difference, you won't ever go back. As for the PC you linked to, even though it's a "Gaming" computer, that AMD CPU chip is really under-powered. I'd skip that one. Though the rest of the specs seem to be fine. The company is saving money and offering a $999 computer by skipping out on a decent CPU. They hope that you won't notice since it's marketed as a "Gaming" computer. Always look at the specs.

There has been a shortage of RAM, it always happens at this time of year. The materials that make the memory sticks become a little more scarce. Then they restock. What RAM did it link you to? Do you have the part number? Sometimes you can find it on Amazon, B&H, etc. In fact, I bought my Crucial RAM for my new iMac from B&H. It was $20 cheaper than Crucial had on their website. LOL!

Apple RAM is insanely overpriced. I’ve used Crucial RAM in my computers since the 1990’s.

Head to Crucial.com. Run their scanning tool, it will take you to a page with your options. You are looking for a 16GB Kit (two 8GB sticks). That should take you from 8GB to 24GB without removing existing RAM. Which iMac size do you have? It sounds like the 27” model. If it is, it’s pretty straightforward to upgrade your RAM.

For example, I just changed the position of the lever by pulling it out and moving it to the left:

Since you already have a Manfrotto System, the Manfrotto 496RC2 Ball Head will work for your setup. As I type this, it's $72.41. Here is my Platypod Max with this particular Ball Head mounted: As you can see, the locking lever is pretty close to the Platypod. This lever is a "Ratcheting" type. Which means you tug it out slightly and then reposition the lever so you can move it to tighten things down.

Yeah, it's interesting to use. I personally purchased the larger Platypod Max, which is the $99 model. Were you thinking about that model or the smaller Ultra Platypod? Your choice between the two models will determine your tripod head options and budget will come into play as well. So before I start rambling, you have a D810, fantastic. Will the Battery Grip be mounted? What lenses would be mounted when using the Platypod? What are you photographing? Extended time-lapse or just simple shots while roaming around? How much were you looking to spend on both the Ballhead and Platypod? Oh, one more question. Do you have a tripod now? Any current quick release plates or a QR System? (Arca, Manfrotto, etc.)

I’m very good at spending other people’s money.

What?! B&H sends to Oz. Unless Epson says no. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/find/HelpCenter/International.jsp

Sweet! What did they do? I've never come across this question before and would like to learn.

If cost is an issue, I'd just spend the extra $10 and get a Epson Perfection V600. It looks like it's on sale for $189.99. The V550 is actually $10 more at B&H. Go figure.

If you pass your camera onto someone, I would highly recommend them starting with a Canon Flash. Even if you have to rent one for a few days. Again, since your camera will only fire the flash, and there is no AUTO-ANYTHING. This person will need to shoot in manual mode for the best results and use manual flash. Since this is a gig, and you have an assistant that might not be proficient in this area, I'd rent a flash. It's $43 for seven days, plus any other fees like shipping and insurance.

So you download the images how? With a software program or the standard copy/paste?

In my personal experience, laptops only last about 4 years or so, well for the more expensive ones. Laptops that are less than $500 seem to last 18-24 months. Of course there are exceptions and I’m basing this on my own personal experience. So I agree with your husband, I wouldn’t fix your Macbook. Apple’s prices on laptops is ludicrous. Though I wouldn’t buy a $500 laptop either. I like the Asus Republic of Gamers Line, as they tend to have IPS-Based screens, which is better for photos. I’d plan on a budget of $1000-$1500. As far as copying stuff to a Windows Computer, Apple makes that difficult. By default you can copy Windows files to your Mac easily, it’s just going from your Mac to Windows that is somewhat difficult. Generally people will recommend using exFAT for a Partiton Type and that works for the most part, but I like leaving that to the more advanced computer type people. It’s not 100% bullet-proof. FAT32 also works will going between Windows and Mac, but I wouldn’t push it above 32GB. So good ‘ol Sneakernet with a 32GB Thumbdrive. Which leaves software to do the conversion and honestly, I’d use a cloud service to go between the two worlds, for example, Dropbox, Google Drive, etc. Here is a pretty good web page to read: https://www.google.com/amp/s/mashtips.com/transfer-files-between-pc-and-mac/amp/

Yeah, you can use it in full manual mode. Your Canon body will just active the flash, similar to a simple trigger. No TTL. No Auto Mode what-so-ever and it won’t break anything. You will have to keep the subject distance in mind (inverse Square Law) and know that your aperture controls flash power setting and shutter speed controls your ambient light. You will probably be at 1/200th or slower to match your camera’s sync speed. Shooting without TTL isn’t too bad especially once you find your happy place and know where to stand. I’d practice a bit and fiddle with things before shooting any gigs. Good Luck!!

Alright, I've re-read your question. I take my previous comment back. Windows Photo Viewer is the default viewing program. Are you wanting to see the images in the pictures folder? How are you downloading your images to you computer? With a card reader or your camera attached to your computer?

No, I've just done normal prints in the past. I actually will try the fine-art stuff next. Thanks!

That's not a bad build at all. I'd say go for it. The only thing that's missing is hard drives. Unless you have one laying around somewhere. Since budget is an issue, I highly recommend a WD Black 7200RPM drive if you need one. You can always upgrade to a SSD at a later time when money allows.

CPQ is decent. I like them. The thing to know is to not push your colors. You don’t need to go nuclear as there colors are bright. Yes, Mac screens are really bright. It’s not unheard of being one or two ticks from the left to get a realistic physical print brightness.

Yeah, I know of a fix. It’s a registry hack to get the photo viewer back in the list. I will answer this later when I get home.

Fantastic!!

“Meh.” I haven’t heard of too many horror stories but PS CC needs to be granted access in the security settings. It’s a bug. I haven’t upgraded and the latest version High Sierra is quite stable.

Don’t mess with the built in Mac Monitor / Calibration Controls. They are worthless. Have you considered using a different printing company? I stopped using WHCC years ago. I currently use CPQ and I have a Mac.

So what was your final build and final cost? What components did you end up getting? I'm curious.