Damien Symonds

I have no idea, sorry. But I'm so excited for you. I'm so excited to see your photos with better focus. Your magnificent photography has been let down for the longest time by poor performance at high ISO.

In the bottom left corner there's a "Shortcuts" dropdown menu. That will be the way.

I'm SO sorry ... I know the answer to that on a PC, but I'm not sure about Mac.

I assure you, a home printer has no such cleverness. It prints a rough approximation of the file you send it, within its limitations.

Wonderful news!

You do need to calibrate again now that you've changed the brightness, yes.

Hi @Miksang Images, I have instructions for the SpyderX Elite. You'll find them here: https://www.damiensymonds.net/calibration.html

Sorry, I wasn't clear. I was more interested in this section. I don't see how you correlate that to a home printer.

Great. Then yes, follow "Part 9: Troubleshooting" which is about 3/4 of the way down this page: https://www.damiensymonds.net/cal_S5P_mac.html (It's the Spyder5 instructions, but the troubleshooting approach should be roughly the same).

So if you compared prints to screen in indirect sunlight, the comparison would be exactly the same?

That doesn't actually answer my question. Is your light good? Not too warm?

Are you SURE the light around your computer is ok? What you're describing is often the fault of light, not the screen or calibration.

Can you elaborate on this strange statement?

Which means they told you the wrong profile to use, as we suspected; and aren't willing to admit it. You're fortunate to be rid of that company. Glad you found a good one.

No. If anything, the opposite will be true. When soft-proofing for press printing it's most common to have to dull some very vivid colours of the RGB file to fit into the CMKY gamut. (In fact, this is true for RGB printing as well - did you see this thread?) No, definitely not. (As long as the soft-proofing and related adjustments are done properly, of course.) The balance will be fine. It's just that some colours might be a little duller by necessity. Yes, it wouldn't be too much trouble at all to put this simple extra step into your workflow, if you felt it was necessary. But heck, I wouldn't bother. For the small percentage of photos that would be affected, it's not worth it. Alas, yes. Again, though, it's only for a small percentage of images (ones with very vivid colours, eg flowers.) Not exactly. You would only have one file - the PSD file - with a specific Hue/Saturation layer for each print shop, which you applied in accordance with that shop's soft-proofing profile. Then for each print job you'd turn on the necessary layer, and turn the others off. (In case I haven't already mentioned this, the photos you put in the InDesign document are always PSD files. Never jpegs.) I agree. It would be wise to do a bit of testing to make sure you had a good system in place, but yes, it sure would save a lot of work. Is this something you're going to be dealing with a lot? Printing the same images at various print places?

I've got nothing, sorry

Sorry Falon, Brian is on a holiday at the moment (and he told me his holiday destination was likely to be in the path of Hurricane Sally) so he's not visiting the forum as often as usual.

Oh, that's a relief.

I look forward to hearing!

While it's true that there are a lot of dark photos in the book (mostly the old ones) the two that you posted above aren't dark at all. I see absolutely no reason why they would have printed dark. There can only be two reasons, I figure. Either (a) it was just a bad print job, or (b) they shouldn't be using FOGRA39.

Holy mackerel. I don't know what reviews you found about the i1Display Pro, but they're all nonsense. It's an excellent device, the only one I ever use.

Bridge and Photoshop. All anyone needs.

Yes, that will do for now. But I promise, once you take the 30 day challenge, you'll never use stupid Lightroom again. You won't even need all 30 days.

Yes. Insofar as a shitty touch screen can ever show good colour, a calibrator will help you get there.

Yes, it MUST be sRGB.