Damien Symonds

https://www.damiensymonds.net/2012/10/using-photoshops-gradient-layer.html

Did you have a chance to read it, @paul hendrick? It doesn't take very long.

Hi @paul hendrick, thanks for posting. Before we get to the nuts and bolts of your question, can you have a quick read-through of this micro-class to see if we're on a similar wavelength about InDesign workflow?

Well, matching the edges is done by lowering the opacity of the layer. The same way you'd do it for a head swap.

Ok, cool. Well, as you can probably tell, I just used the cuff from the other photo, and swapped it in.

So I'm thinking it'll have to look like this?

Don't worry, you'll learn that soon. Keep the raw class posts coming, please.

No, just post them here as usual.

The second one, though, has a complete smooth curve of the suit cuff to work with (whereas in the first one it's partially obscured by the shirt). We might be able to work with that. Can you do the raw processing then post those two snippets again?

Oh gosh, this is unfortunate, isn't it? May I see the whole photo, or at least more of the guy, for context?

Download my PSD

I'd assumed you'd go for something more like this ... ... but as you can see, the possibilities are almost literally infinite.

Ah, this is pretty standard Gradient Map stuff. https://www.damiensymonds.net/2011/02/powerful-gradient-map-techniques.html

You'll learn about that in the Channel Mixer Class, but that's a little way down the road.

No problem. PLEASE give me a month to change your life: https://www.damiensymonds.net/bridge-30-day-challenge

It's impossible, sorry. Everyone's phones and computers are different. All you can do is work safely in sRGB and trust to the naiveté of the public.

Oh yeah, sorry, I should have warned you about that. Unfortunately, it's very common that the screens won't look exactly the same, even though you calibrated them with the same calibrator. Which screen is a better match for your prints? Were you following my calibration directions here?

Yep, that looks right.

How did you go, @cathm?

Are you there, @Melissalile?

How did the calibration go, @eleanor15?

It's two layers: First, the Channel Mixer layer, with the "Monochrome" checkbox checked, and these values: 0, 0, +100, 0. Then add the Levels layer and clip it to the Channel Mixer layer, and enter these values: Red channel 0/1.20/213 and 53/255 Green channel 0/1.07/238 and 13/255 Blue channel 16/0.97/238 and 0/255 At this stage the whole photo will be kinda tan-coloured. Return to the Channel Mixer layer and invert the mask to black to hide it all. Then mask it on to the cover. You'll need to be very careful not to let the colour spill onto the legs. But you can let the colour spill onto the rug a little bit, since it's about the same colour.

Oh yeah!!! That's very flattering, well done.

It's so interesting that you happened to post this question today. I've just been testing two new screens, trying them out as replacements for the usual screen that I have attached to my laptop. Each time I've attached a new screen I've calibrated it. And each time I've re-attached a previously-attached screen, my computer automatically remembers that screen and applies its correct calibration profile. It's wonderful!

No, I promise, you don't need to do anything special at all. Just open the calibration software and immediately drag its window to the screen you wish to calibrate. It will know how to do the rest. Having said that, I strongly recommend installing the little program I explain in this article. It's a very good way to ensure that the correct profile is applied to each screen.