Damien Symonds

No, those two things you can do in raw. https://www.damiensymonds.net/2012/03/jpegs-in-acr-elements.html

I'm not Brian, but I'm pretty sure his answer will be yes.

No no no no no. Definitely not. The printer's profile doesn't come into this.

Well, how's your print comparison? Ultimately that's what matters.

Oh darn, this is really annoying, isn't it? You'll probably have to do this, I'm afraid: https://www.damiensymonds.net/2013/10/how-to-properly-re-install-spyder.html

Please try for me anyway. It would be nice to know.

Oh crap. In the middle of the day, with the lights turned off and the window open, how is your print comparison?

Great. So flatten your layers, then choose your Crop Tool, and choose the "W x H x Resolution" setting in the Options Bar. Enter "960px" (make sure you include the "px" or it will default to inches or something) in the Width field if it's a landscape photo, or the Height field if it's a portrait photo. Leave the other two fields blank. For example, this is my crop tool ready to crop a portrait (tall) photo: Then crop.

Bridge is free. Download it immediately.

There are three standard Facebook sizes. One is 720, as you mentioned, but it's very small and is rarely used these days. The next is 960. It's also smallish, but good and fast to load. The third is 2048. This will be sure to fill everyone's screen. But of course is the slowest to upload, and load for view. Still, it's the most common one that people use nowadays, I think. Which do you reckon you'll choose?

Yeah, that one will work! Now go ahead and edit your photo fully and properly. Pay close attention to the white balance during your raw processing, and once you get to the Photoshop stage of your editing, you'll need to completely remove that unfortunate red cast that's coming from lower camera left.

https://www.facebook.com/damien.photoshop/posts/1611507792230949

Is this a profile pic? Is that why you want to make it 720x720?

If it suits you to rename, rename the raw files before you export anything.

Huh? Why would your jpeg files have different filenames from their raw files? Your workflow is a mess. PLEASE switch to Bridge.

This is very unwise. Saving PSD files before you even know if you'll edit them is just chewing up your hard drive space for no purpose. I urge you to stop this practice. Just export the web-resolution jpegs to show the client, then go back and make PSDs only of the ones they choose. That's correct, 8-bit is enough in almost all cases. The only photos which need 16-bit are ones that you know you'll be doing quite aggressive tonal edits to in Photoshop (for example very hazy backlit photos). Actually, as strange as it seems, the resolution is completely irrelevant. You can choose 300, or 72, or 24, or 11, or 5, it honestly doesn't matter a damn.

Oh, right, I understand.

That would be useful, thanks. No options of other rooms to use instead?

Why? I don't know, sorry. I've never observed a difference, and I've used Liquify a bit in both programs.

No, you'll need to find a blonde example. The hair colour is SO important.

That's a lovely pair of photos, but definitely not a match for yours. You'll need to find example photos with dark backgrounds like yours; or find a photo of your own with lighter tones. Also think about the lighting. Your photo is much more shadowy (on her face etc) than the linked ones.

To a specific photo, thanks.

Gosh, I don't know. How big is your room?

May I have a link?

Yes, you're right on both counts - they are sRGB (which is great) and they are quite dark. So yes, this is exactly what you need to do: Until your calibrator arrives (have you ordered it yet?) you MUST darken your screen's brightness setting until the images in Photoshop match the darkness of the prints in your hand.