Damien Symonds

Glowy, of course. You know what glowy means from the skin class.

Oh! But these aren't hot areas, are they? I mean, they're just a bit more discoloured than the surrounding areas.

Thanks for reposting. Sorry about my delayed reply. Do you see how, as well as the colour striping of the moire, the shirt also has some thin stripes of detail, only in some places, of the shirt texture? I know that's real and everything, but I'm afraid we need to get rid of it as well, because it's likely to cause you problems later, when printing. The re-processing of the raw file reduced the problem somewhat, but it didn't remove it entirely as I'd hoped. So we'll have to do this in a two-step process. First you'll duplicate the Background layer, and run Filter>Noise>Despeckle. This should get rid of that thin stripy detail (and will also make lots of other detail in the photo blurry, but don't worry about that for now). Above that, add this Channel Mixer layer: R 0, +100, 0, -10 G 0, +100, 0, 0 B 0, +100, 0, +19 Then clip that CM layer to the Despeckled layer beneath it. Then add a black mask to the Despeckled layer. Then carefully paint onto the shirt (don't include the buttons!). The end result should be a smooth blue shirt, no texture or moire.

You're a premium member, remember? You post in the Premium area.

Oh, this one is nasty. Can we discuss this in the Raw Class briefly?

I don't know where you got the -50 saturation thing from, sorry.

Oh, no, lots can. Curves and Brightness/Contrast can do it with their actual functions, or simply by leaving their functions untouched and changing their blend mode. And lots of others can do it with the blend mode. Exposure, Vibrance, Color Balance, Channel Mixer, Selective Color. The ones that can't are ones that automatically apply some change to the photo's appearance. Photo Filter and Black And White. Gradient Map can also do it, but it's a bit different.

Ok, so your screen is cooler than your prints. Follow the troubleshooting part of my calibration instructions with that in mind.

Ignore this. If you mention it again, I'm walking away from this thread. IT IS IRRELEVANT. This certainly does sound strange, but we'll come back to it later, once we've fixed the colour. Green is the exact opposite colour of pink. So if pictures are missing green, it means they're pink. So on that basis, it sounds like Photoshop matches your prints exactly. But clearly this isn't the case, so please explain this colour difference again.

Terrific. So, complete this sentence for me: "My screen is __________ (warmer/cooler) than my prints".

Yes, of course. That's what it's all about.

No, you did it wrong. Read my numbers again. The swirls WILL disappear.

Channel Mixer layer: R 0, +82, 0, 0 G 0, +100, 0, 0 B 0, +100, 0, +9 Today is the last day of the January Special, so I urge you to jump on board the Channel Mixer Class.

The first step is always to look at the problem. May I do so?

Since this colouring is not at all bad, I would just use a version of the Handyman method. Download PSD

Let me answer this one first. Windows Photo Viewer isn't colour-managed, so it will never be correct. Photoshop is the only one which is correct. Which calibrator did you buy? The X-Rite i1Display Pro that you were looking into?

Go to the View menu and choose "As Thumbnails". I think yours might have changed to "As Details". This is really bad. You're lucky that your computer even starts up, to be honest. You have to try to clear some space.

Are you editing this photo for somebody else?

@Sue Morris?

Did you try it?

How did you go?

Hi Haylee, may I see how it looked before adding the sky?

Yes, of course PS. But you're doing the right thing here. Do your raw processing first, then press "Open" to take the photo into Photoshop, and then start the editing.

How did you go, @Kendra? Did you move Bridge's cache to a different drive?

Oh, I hate it! Well done