Damien Symonds

Until you have those puppies in your hand, this is all pie-in-the-sky.

John! Get the damn prints.

@Maria2218?

Right

Well, that's a test of the calibration itself, not of your computer's profile handling.

The little app should show the correct profile highlighted for the screen that it's on. So if you have its window on the laptop screen, it should have the laptop's profile highlighted. Then when you move it to the desktop screen (and drop it there) it should switch to highlighting the desktop's profile. Does it do that?

I just sent you an email.

Yes, masking of course

Hi Catherine, sorry to hear about your woes. Brian is much wiser than me at this stuff, but until he arrives, I'll throw in my two cents. I think you should do what the geek squad did - plug your computer into another screen. Any screen will do - do you have a television that would work, perhaps?

You can, don't worry. You just have to use the little "DisplayProfile" app that I explained in this article. (You don't even need the whole "TOGGLE.icc" business, just the app.)

Yes, I fear so. What about flipping the rest of the photo? The other dogs don't have as many distinguishing marks.

Add a Channel Mixer layer, and use these values: Red 0, +97, 0, 0 Green 0, +100, 0, 0, Blue 0, +125, 0, 0

Yeah, no, that only works occasionally. This one is too severe. Give me a few minutes ...

With a very large brush.

Native is the starting point, that's all. If it proves not to be a sufficient match for your prints (as long as you're comparing in good light) then you will explore other options. This is all explained very clearly in my instructions. Native is ideal if possible, because it means the least screwing around with the LUTs. The further we have to move from native, the greater the risk of banding.

Just mask 'em like I did. Did you take a look at my mask?

Adequately for your present needs, yes.

Then let's cross our fingers for a DVI miracle.

Screen still colder than the prints?

Right.

Inconsistent, but not wildly bad either way. Looking at these images, there's nothing to suggest your monitor is badly calibrated.

No no no no no!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They must be one and the same.

The Smart Object was necessary - vital, in fact - in order to be able to apply the blur as a smart filter. Smart filters can be re-adjusted later.

They're five separate lines, on five separate layers, which I then merged into the Smart Object you see in the PSD. You should have sung out before now!!!! I wanted to share the PSD to make it faster for you, not to bog you down for hours.

Come on, ya tightass This conversation is completely pointless without prints. You just need a handful of 5x7s. It's no great expense. Hurry up and get 'em done.