Damien Symonds

Oh gosh yes. Have you read this information about obtaining and changing colours of gradients?

Did you "cheat" and copy the exact gradient I used?

Right, that's exactly what I thought. You have to replace your background every single time. There is no other way.

Can you link me to images that other people have produced, using a cyclorama wall? Yours seriously just looks like a box.

What's a cyc?

How did you go with yours? What did you think of mine? @tracyandrade, this one is relevant to you.

It's going to be very tricky, though.

Yeah, I was afraid of that In that case, go with the "haircut" one that you did. In actual fact, the hair looks fine. What DOESN'T look fine is all the wisps left on the jacket, if you know what I mean. You'll need to clone out a lot of those, so it looks realistically like the hair is flowing neatly down her head and onto her body.

It doesn't matter. The purpose of monitor calibration is for your screen to match ALL prints - not just good ones. In fact, it could be argued that it's even more important for your screen to match your bad prints, so you can SEE if your edits are bad before you print them. Does that make sense? Don't over-think this, my friend. Just calibrate and compare.

Have you tried this?

It's not ideal, but yes, it's something you could experiment with.

Well, to be honest, it sounds like you HAVE found out that it is wide gamut. If the calibration is better, that sounds good enough to me. And that's good news - it's nice to have a W-G monitor. Just be aware of the browsing and other issues that I discussed here.

Usually it has no choices there if you are running the software without having the Munki plugged in to the USB port.

Oh gee, turn the pressure nonsense off. If you insist on having it turned on, you'll need to go to the Brush panel (accessed via the Window menu) and play with the spacing, the smoothing, and (I think) the shape dynamics. But seriously, turn it off.

The noise layer is clipped to the gradient layer. Therefore, it is automatically applied to the parts you change.

Some other recent examples here, here and here.

Linda?

How did you ever go with this?

How's the calibration now?

The only way to do this properly is to replace the background altogether. https://www.damiensymonds.net/preventing-banding-in-backdrops/

Download: PSD 1 PSD 2 PSD 3

Ok, so it'll be the eyedropper method as described in this article: https://www.damiensymonds.net/levels-eyedropper

Has this been printed yet? How did it turn out?

Well, I have to think about the method I suggest to you, you see? What works for this photo might not work for another photo. So, could you show me one or two other close-ups of the problem as well?