Damien Symonds

Generally this means your tool isn't on "Normal" mode in the Options Bar.

No, that's complete bollocks. You can very much ignore that advice. Basically, don't sharpen at all in raw. If you do add some sharpening, make sure it's such a small amount that it doesn't risk adding back the noise you just removed. Sharpening only happens during output - for print or web, at the very end of the workflow.

I really think it helps. Good stuff.

No, no different settings at all. In fact, I'd even strongly recommend taking in your pro lab prints, for verification.

Thanks. And tell me about this blue-to-white gradient you're envisioning. Where would the blue and white be?

No, because sharpening can only happen after flattening.

Then I really will need to see the whole photo, not cropped. Background replacement would have to be done before hair trimming, I think.

You can do it in LR if you like, but only if you're happy to settle for mediocre quality. If you want genuine quality for your prints or web files, the sharpening step must be done in Photoshop.

Download the PSD file The top layer is a dodge and burn layer, of course.

Yeah, tough one. This is the best I can manage: I cloned out the lines at the top of the inside of each frame, and liquified down the upper eyelid of her right (our left) eye. I can show you the PSD if you like it.

Are you happy with the background? You don't wish to change it?

Right. So, do you have another screen you can plug into it? I assure you there is no banding in these photos you're posting. This is a screen problem.

Then, when you're ready to output for print or web, re-open the file from LR to PS, and flatten and crop/resize and sharpen appropriately, then save as a jpeg.

Well yes, that's what the update is for. I don't know, sorry

No, it doesn't work like that. Firstly, yes you can calibrate his work PC with your Spyder, as long as the Datacolor rules allow you to do so. And yes, of course anyone who is working in graphic design should be calibrated. And yes, calibration will ensure that his website stuff will be correct. But calibration alone won't guarantee his magazines print correctly. For that, he needs to ensure that he is working carefully with the correct CMYK profiles. There is some partially relevant reading here and here. But to give more specific advice, I'll need to hear more about his CMYK workflow.

THIS is the disastrous part! Flattening the layers. You MUST NOT DO THAT.

Yes, the blend mode is the key. Multiply worked because the sidewalk was very light in colour. If it had been darker, another blend mode might have worked better, or none at all. That's why I linked this article in the instructions.

I'll need to see the whole photo, because I need to see more of the background. Paint out her face if you wish.

That might be the case, yes.

I'd need to see one or two of your photos in the Raw Class.

Alas, I don't have any "tricks" for you. Just very painstaking cloning.

Perfect. http://www.damiensymonds.net/2011/11/strategies-for-managing-out-of-gamut.html

Well, it's not the laptop, exactly. A laptop is fine if it has a good screen, and you're careful about where you use it. Well, there are pros and cons both ways. Desktops are more powerful, but of course not portable, if you really need to go somewhere. I'm going to move this thread into Ask Brian, and he'll have more thoughts for you about the laptop-or-desktop decision.

I see from your sidebar that you have a laptop. Are you editing on the laptop screen, or on another screen plugged into it?

That sure is weird. When I was testing, the first time I did it, I had what you have - it kept stopping there. But after I re-recorded the step, it was fine for me.