Of course not. If you crop to specific dimensions, that trumps everything. Nothing else is required.
Image size or Fit image are only needed if you haven't cropped at all, or if you've cropped without imposing any dimensions.
Of course you must not do that. The whole point of image processor is to do the saving for you.
No no no. Do you think your lab will change the way they print just because one of their thousands of customers suddenly calibrated? Of course not. Prints are prints. You don't need to get new ones afterwards.
The purpose of calibration is to make your screen match the prints you already have. Not just the good ones either. ALL your prints.
Hooray!
But NOOOOOOOOO!
You can't calibrate unless you have prints with you! You can't wait until after calibration to get prints.
Do you have any prints?
Hi Kim, when I'm looking at the Flash data in exif in Bridge, some say "Did not fire", while others say "Did not fire, compulsory mode".
This seems to be across various cameras.
What does "compulsory mode" mean in terms of flash?
I think it's a DISGUSTING waste of money.
But its specs are good, so if you want it, yes, it should calibrate fine.
Make sure you turn off the stupid light sensor.
Add a Channel Mixer adjustment layer, and go to the Blue Output Channel.
Change its values from 0, 0, +100, 0 to 0, +107, 0, 0. (Make sure you get those numbers in exactly the right order).
Then mask to the bottom area of the photo.
No no no. Never simulate paper colour. That's only for people who aren't calibrated correctly.
Your settings are fine. If you are toggling Ctrl Y and seeing nothing change, it simply means your photo doesn't have any endangered (vivid) colours.
So would you like to make your photo exactly the same colour as the one you linked to?
Or are you just asking how to stop it being cool at the top and yellow/greenish at the bottom?