Brian

Yep! If you don't want to use Dropbox and have an existing HD acting as a NAS (Network Attached Storage) and is formatted to FAT32, go that route. Just be sure to NOT go larger than a 32GB Partition. Once you go above 32GB with FAT32 on a HD, things get kinda weird and unpredictable. So says Microsoft. Oh, if you do want to use this method, I'd partition and format the FAT32 HD on a Windows computer. Even though a Mac can do it, I personally still want to setup that partition with a Windows computer. It doesn't have to be a fancy computer either. A Windows XP computer should be able to do it fine. Heck a Windows 98SE with a USB 2.0 port should be able to do it. I just don't format Windows drives on my Mac.

Post Script: For those wondering, My answer is simply, "...because I'm catering to the majority." Most folks who come into Ask Brian aren't really that technical; they come in, want stuff answered and then want to go do other things, like take Damien's updated classes. Which is fine. ExFAT can be unpredictable, so says Microsoft and they are the one's who invented it. When it comes to my answers, I am VERY CONSERVATIVE. So I'm not about to tell Jane Doe from Cutesy Name Photography to use ExFAT, only to have it blow up in her face two weeks from now, nuking all of her sessions and two weddings that need edited. I do not want to be responsible / liable if something goes horribly wrong. That's why I don't recommend using programs that act as translators to go back and forth between Windows and a Mac, nor will I ever recommend ExFAT for your "Average" person. If you know about ExFAT and know what do to if something goes wrong, go ahead and use that method. I'm still of the opinion that one should pick a format and stick with it. No going back and forth. It's either Windows -OR- Mac. You buy a Mac to run a Mac. If you want a Windows computer, then don't buy a Mac. Translator Programs (for lack of a better term) are programs who act in between the NTFS Filesystem and Journaled HFS+ Filesystem. For the most part, they seem to work fine, but are not bullet-proof. If anything happens to that software, and glitches or bugs/crashes during a data transfer, your files could be destroyed. I would hate for someone to be dumping images from something like a Wedding using one of those type of programs. You might be fine for years, and then all of a sudden, "Poof..." the images are gone. Then come the panicked posts begging for help. It's happened before in Ask Brian 1.0 (Facebook.) Extreme Data Recovery is not cheap. Like $1500+ not cheap. As far as what program to use if someone needs to go back-and-forth. I'd say a cloud program like Dropbox, or something similar. Something that you can copy to and then download. If something goes wrong, re-upload a copy of the original file from the source computer and try it again. Yes, I know it's long. It's boring to wait. I'd rather be bored sitting at home, than freaking out in a courtroom because I got sued.

We are almost done. Two more steps. First, click Apply at the bottom. A Warning Box will appear asking if you really-really want to do this, click Partition. Wait a few minutes while the HD Partition and formats / mounts. When it completes, you should see it appear in the Finder like the internal HD or on the desktop if you have that feature turned on. A message may appear asking if you want to use the HD for Time Machine. Chances are the answer to this question will be a "No." The reason is, that you want 1.5 x's the size of the data that you are backing up. So if you have 500GB of stuff on the HD, you are looking for a Time Machine HD to be 1.5TB - 2.0TB large. Of course, this isn't a hard and fast rule, I only have a 1TB EHD acting as my TM drive, but I have less than 400GB being taken up my by software and files. So I can get away with a 1TB drive. For most folks, who have a "average" filled HD, I'd recommend using a 2TB EHD for Time Machine.

Now this is a another important step. Before you click Apply at the bottom, head to the lower portion of the partition column and select the OPTIONS button. Select GUID Partition Table. It should be the 1st one in the list and then click OK at the bottom.

From there, select the Partition Tab on the Right From there click the right down arrow next to "Current Layout" Select 1 Partition From there, we want to head towards the right column and give the HD a Name. Call it "WD 500GB" or whatever. It is Extremely Important to select Mac OS Extended (Journaled) for the format. You do not want Case Sensitive or any other formats. (More on this later.) As for the size, just leave it at the default.

OK, Now for the steps: Head to your Applications folder then look for the Utilities Folder. In the Utilities Folder, you should see Disk Utility. Click on it. Now, your screen might look a little different since I'm on Mavericks, but you should be able to figure this out. What you want to do is select the FIRST LINE for the HD listing.

Re-partitioning and reformatting a HD is pretty easy. There is just a few steps. First, you'll need to close out any Parallels software. If you want to get rid of Parallels, do that first and reboot. Keep in mind, when we do this ALL OF YOUR EXISTING DATA WILL BE ERASED FROM THE HD!!! So make sure you are 110% confident that there is absolutely nothing on that EHD that you won't miss, or is backed up somewhere else.

Haven't forgotten about you, just have been away from the computer. I will get to this question tonight.

Buy it!

Those specs are fine, but make sure that model can be upgraded to 32GB!! There are a few iMac models, both 21.5" AND 27" that are locked in at 8GB of RAM. This means no extra memory slots and RAM soldered to the motherboard. People think they are getting a good deal, because they cost A LOT less but in reality, they are getting suckered. When it comes to today's Apple line-up, it's a "Go-Big-Or-Go-Home" proposition. That said, since 1984...the Apple Macintosh Line-Up has ALWAYS been expensive!

Do you know how to repartition and format the HD for use with the Mac? I can help if needed.

I'd save up for the A$2799 27" iMac. (US $1799 iMac). Whatever you do, SKIP the 21.5" iMacs. Waste of money.

Yeah, you would save a bunch. The problem is, converting and copying things over from a Mac to a Windows box could be a real pain. Specs are similar. Check out the threads in the Windows section on what to look for.

As for the Video RAM, it's 2GB. Hardware Manufacturers like to say that 2000GB is 2GB, Microsoft says that 2048GB is 2GB.

If you have a Best Buy Credit Card and want to do 12 Months Same as Cash, here is the laptop (or one similar) at Best Buy: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/asus-rog-15-6-laptop-intel-core-i7-16gb-memory-1tb-hard-drive-metallic/4637109.p?id=1219785906403&skuId=4637109

I'd SKIP this one. For the love that is Good and Green, DO NOT BUY A TOUCHSCREEN LAPTOP!!! They are a real BITCH to calibrate. I would avoid one at all costs. Buy this one: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1183450-REG/asus_gl552vw_dh71_i7_6700hq_16gb_1tb_windows_10_64_960m_15_6.html

Australia prices SUCK. My condolences. Here is the iMac specs that you should be looking for: Basically, you are looking for last year's A$2799.00 model.

Hey Dave, check out the "Refurbished Mac Store." I believe this is the Australia store. I'm thinking this is where you are looking. Have faith, Apple will get stuff in stock from time-to-time. But what you see listed is what they have. So if you do find a good deal, and have the funds, BUY IT!! Because they are 1st come 1st serve and that iMac could sell out from underneath you. http://www.apple.com/au/shop/browse/home/specialdeals/mac

Damn. That's a sweet deal. I'd click buy.

By default, a Mac will READ a Windows Drive, but NOT WRITE TO IT. So either you'll need to NUKE that EHD (clear off EVERYTHING) and format it for use with the Mac, or purchase a fresh external HD and format it for use with the Mac. There are programs out there that will allow you to go back and forth, but I personally don't trust them. From my POV and the way I personally do things, I pick a format (Mac OR Windows) and stick with it. Let me know what you want to do. Nuke that drive and set it up for a Mac, or if you want recommendations for an External HD, in which case I will need some sort of budget to go by.

To install the Crucial Scanner, head to your system preferences and look for Security & Privacy. Look for a padlock towards the bottom of the window. Click it and it will ask for your admin password (the one you log on with if you are the only user.) Set the security setting to "Anywhere." Close out the Window and reboot. Then try running the Crucial Scanner. 24GB is fine. There is a difference between 8GB and 24GB. That said, RAM is cheap now, so if you want to buy two 16GB kits and Max it out to 32GB, go for it. But if money is tight, go with 24GB. Now I'm sure you are thinking, "Is there a major difference between 24GB and 32GB?" My answer, "Meh." There is a minor difference, but it's not as earth-shattering as going from 8GB to 24GB.

There is a reason that it's $600 less. It's not upgradable. AT ALL!! Apple is trying to sell to the masses. To get the "better" Macs, you need to "Go Big or Go Home." While it's fine to purchase last year's model, you are looking for the $1799 27" iMac from last year. NOT the El Cheapo one.

Wait!!! DO NOT BUY THAT IMAC!!! That's the LOW END CRAPPY 27"!!!!

For a MBP built for photo editing, you start at the $2500 model and tweak things. Honestly, it's silly to spend $3600 on a MBP, because that's the price-point you are looking at with a MBP.

See comment below.