Brian

Yeah, I never use the remove the "Large Files" option. It's nice to know that they are there, but just for cases like this...it's tough to get files back on a Mac. Even when you use recovery software, it will find everything that's deleted, and usually put it back as a .TIFF file or something similar, not a .nef. Though you can get lucky. It's too bad that the Mac OS doesn't have a "Undo" feature, like here is the last 10 files that you deleted. Since the Mac OS is based upon Unix, it's tough to recover lost files. Basically, you need photo recovery software. Wondershare Photo Recovery Software looks interesting and it's free to try.

Yes. It's fine.

That's a really good question. Short Answer: No. Long Answer: Adobe has dropped update support for CS6. They no longer update ACR for CS6, so I find it highly unlikely that they will update the CS6 product suite for the new OS. Plus, Apple is going away from the HFS+ file system to the Apple File System (APFS) sometime in 2017. By default, that new file system is case-sensitive, and Adobe's products won't work on a case-sensitive file system. Fun, eh? The best chance for any Adobe products working with Mac OS Sierra is to use the Creative Cloud Suite. (E.g. Photoshop CC, Illustrator CC, etc.) That will be what Adobe upgrades to work on future Operating Systems, not something like CS5 or CS6. So for those peeps that want to refuse to give into the leased software model, your days are numbered.

I like the Dell XPS models. The Inspirons are more of the consumer-grade line. They are "Okay," but aren't the fastest and don't have the best components under the hood. You'll get 3-4 years out of one. As far as not Dell, take a look at the technical specs and also take a look at various threads in this forum. I've repeated myself many times on what to look for.

The 2415 is the current Dell Monitor that seems to replace the 2412m that I usually recommend. I know they have a 27" model, but I would need a link to see WHAT 27" you are talking about. Dell has so many models, and if you aren't careful, you could buy the wrong thing.

Lots of great info at SansMirror.com

Seven Reasons Why Thom is still a DSLR User

Thom Hogan has a lot of great articles and thoughts in regards to Mirrorless bodies. Especially in the AF Dept. if your subject is static or moving in a predictable way, usually you can nail focus once you figured out your camera. I will post a few links to his website.

On the D40? Nothing you can do except manual focus or get a bigger body that has the "Fine Tune AF" feature. You'll need a D90/Dxxxx class for that (Like a D7000 or the new D500.) The AF Fine Tune is on the camera body, not the lens.

What files were they?

I also let CMM3 just do the default system stuff, NEVER for everything else because I learned the hard way that file recovery is damn near impossible on a Mac. At least without special software installed prior to you deleting files.

What files did you remove? Where were they located originally? Main drive or EHD? Do you have a Time Machine drive because recovering files off a Mac is tough and you need recovery software to do it.

I like this one: http://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/business-solutions/hp-zbook-studio-g3-mobile-workstation-(energy-star)-t6e16ut-aba

The biggest reason that I recommend the Asus laptops are these two things: Display. The screen is IPS-based. This is important for editing photos as IPS screens colors are even and consistent from edge to edge. The cheaper laptops usually have TN screens, which is great for everything...except editing photos. The laptop has a dedicated video card with its own video memory. It's not using the CPU or RAM of the laptop. Adobe's products utilize the Graphics Processor and Video Memory to help improve performance. So believe it or not, this part of what makes up a laptop is just as important as how fast the CPU chip is. Now, I want to make something absolutely clear: I DO NOT EVER-EVER-EVER RECOMMEND LAPTOPS FOR PHOTO EDITING. PERIOD. I just got tired of arguing. I've also come from a different POV, as I've seen my share of dead HP laptops. In reality, they do not make things like they used to. Laptops today only get about 3 or so years of use, before they become "Too Slow" or just stop working altogether. Laptop batteries are another thing. I have never experienced a 3rd party laptop battery working well...ever. So if you do buy a new laptop, budget for a 2nd OEM (Name-Brand) HP battery. They aren't cheap, usually around $150-$200 or so. As for the link, they seem fine. Just make sure IPS is mentioned in the technical specs. For example: See how it says 15.6" UHD IPS UWVA display? It also mentions a NVIDIA graphics card wtih 4GB dedicated video memory. 1-2GB is fine for the majority, so don't sweat it if a laptop that you are interested in only has 1GB of video memory. If it's dedicated, fantastic...that is the important part. As for the other specs, here are some guidelines: i5 or i7 CPU. There is only a 5%-10% performance increase with a Intel i7 vs an Intel i5 when it comes to Photoshop. If a program isn't coded to take advantage of the features of the Intel i7 that makes it so fast, those things get ignored. Main Hard Drive Capacity. I don't care how fast a SSD drive is and all the super-stupid buzzwords the sales literature states. If it's only a 256GB model, it's not going to do you a damn bit of good if it's full. You want at least 500GB, preferably 1TB. Yes, even if there is a second hard drive in the laptop. People are creatures of habit. You have to make a mental note to not do a "Next-Next-Next-OK-OK-Finish" when it comes to software installations. Or storage of your files. When the main drive is small, like 256GB...you are going to need to be ANAL on what gets installed on it. Otherwise you are just going to come in here asking questions on why Photoshop is complaining about the scratch drive and why is your new laptop so slow and locking up and blah-blah-blah. LOL! Save yourself the stress. Operating System & RAM: Windows 7 Professional 64-bit or Windows 10 64-bit. You DO NOT GET WINDOWS 7 HOME EDITION. The RAM caps out at 16GB. That being said, if the laptop only goes up to 16GB, this becomes a non-issue. In reality, a laptop that comes standard with 16GB of RAM is preferred these days, with the ability to upgrade to at least 32GB. As camera sensors get more Mega-Pixels, RAW file-sizes are going to increase. Today's entry level cameras start at 24MP and it's only going to get worse. Screen: IPS based. It should be mentioned in the tech specs. If not, I would assume that it's not a IPS based screen. Dedicated Video RAM. 2GB or 4GB is fine for the majority. Especially if you are just editing photos.

Just think, manufactures have been known to charge $30-$50 extra to do what you just did!

Yes. This is normal. Especially if you have a new iMac with a 5K Retina Screen. You will notice more flaws in your photos, and start to see more of the quirks and shortcomings with your lenses. Isn't technology fun?

Told you it was easy.

Hmm...something could have updated without you knowing. Microsoft is forcing auto-updates now more than ever. Laptops are also a pain in the arse when it comes to monitor profiles. Even though the Spyder is working, it is quite possible that the software has a glitch. It could also be the NVIDIA drivers. What I would do is un-install the Spyder4 Elite Software. Reboot. Then download the new Sypder4 Elite Version 4.5.8 software. It seems they came out with an update and your version is outdated.

You are done!!

Stock $1799 iMac, which should be perfectly acceptable for the majority, unless you have a Nikon D800/800E, Nikon D810 or one of those Canon 50MP cameras. Then you really need the "SuperFast Edition" that I posted above.

If I had money to blow and wanted a "SuperFast Edition" iMac, I'd customize the $2299 model with the following upgrades: Cost: $2999 - Not including AppleCare & Shipping/Tax Then I would purchase the 16GB RAM kit from Crucial to max out the RAM to 32GB.

Whatever you do, SKIP THE 21.5" iMac line. They are a waste of money and can't be upgraded easily after the fact. By the time you purchase a $1499 21.5" iMac and upgrade it to 16GB, you are $100 less than a stock $1799 iMac. As far as the 27" iMac, believe it or not, the stock $1799 version should meet most people's needs. If you want something better, you should look at the $2299 model. Like I said, "Go Big or Go Home." After purchasing the iMac, I'd head to Crucial.com, run their scanning tool and upgrade the RAM to 24GB (Purchase a 16GB kit.) Whatever you do, try not to purchase Apple's RAM. It is extremely over-priced for what it is.

Have you upgraded to Windows 10 lately? Has anything changed on the laptop? Driver updates that you are aware of?

Apple really wants you to "Go Big or Go Home." What is your budget and what are you planning on doing with the Mac? Editing Photos? Video?

There seems to be an existing LaCie setup partition that's getting in the way. I'd click Erase at the top and see if you can delete it.