Brian

Not sure about scanning your Cloud, it's plausible if a local copy is on your computer somewhere and the folders are synced. There is a program, called Gemini 2 or Gemini II from MacPaw. These are the same people who make "CleanMyMac X." I believe there is a Windows Version. More info: https://macpaw.com/gemini Now about deleting things one by one, you may not get around that entirely, but I'd try Gemini 2 and see if that does something for you.

If you are using the current version of PS CC, then it might be worth upgrading, since Photoshop uses the GPU for a performance boost. Especially for fancy things like Liquidfy and Content Aware, and some of the Lens Correction things, I believe. Now if Photoshop CC is really lagging and it's complaining about the Video Card and/or Video Drivers, it's something to pursue. Now should you? My opinion is mixed. When you upgrade your Video Card, there is a good chance that you will also need to upgrade the power supply. (Especially if you are only around 300 Watts or so for your power supply.) Plus, your Motherboard is kinda dated and your budget of $300 I'm concerned about; I just have a sneaky suspicion you are gonna blow right through that $300. The truth is, things are just more expensive across the board. I believe the NVIDIA 4000 series have finally hit the shelves, so a Card like a NVIDIA GTX 3070 8GB (My absolute favorite card, BTW,) prices should come down in the next few months. If you go the new PC Route, your budget needs to be closer to $3000. Of course, you can find deals now and should be able to get something around $2600 or so, but plan on a $3000 Budget in 2022/2023 for a new computer to be on the safe side. Bottom Line: I'd keep saving at this point.

First, head to the Finder and open it. Then once it's opened, click the Finder Menu and select "Preferences." Once the Preferences is opened, make sure "External Disks" is checked. (Or just set it up the way I have mine.) Click the Red Circle when completed. Now your Macintosh HD, and any External Hard Drive (and DVD, and Memory Card, etc) should appear on the desktop. Now simply plug-in the G-Drive, if it's a Thunderbolt Model, use the Thunderbolt Port on the PC. Likewise, if it's a USB Model, use a USB 3.0 Port. Basically we want to utilize the fastest port available on your computer. Chances are it's a 7200RPM Model, so you will have to plug it in as well. I'd hook the drive up to the computer, plug the power in, then flip the switch. Wait about 10 or so seconds and the drive should appear on the desktop. Select the EHD by left-clicking once, then right-click and select "Get Info." Post a screenshot of the results here in this thread. Or if you don't want to go through that trouble, what I'm really interested in, is the "Format" type of that drive. We want it to say "Mac OS Extended (Journaled)" If yours is setup that way, give the G-Drive a Name, I called mine "G-Drive 12TB," you can name yours to whatever you want, just make things easy and keep the name simple. If it says "Mac OS Extended (Journaled)," you are good-to-go. If ANYTHING else is there, like exFAT...then we need to do stuff. But I'm 99% sure you won't have to do anything.

Yeah, it’s just the specs that I saw. Always research before buying. If you are switching to Mac, Apple makes things very easy to migrate over. It’s just when you want to go back to Windows or use both platforms at the same time is when you run into trouble. Also, on the Mac side, expect to pay around $4300 for a Mac Laptop and $5200 for a Mac Desktop that’s “Good for Photo Editing.” Welcome to 2022 / 2023 pricing. It sucks to be in the market right now.

Here is my Donation Link: https://www.paypal.com/donate/?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=HVQ98TKLAZGVY&source=url

Ok. So are you staying Mac or going to Windows? Yes, the problem with computers today is we are still dealing with a chip shortage. It’s gotten better, but the issue is…if you see something, meets the requirements, no thinking it over-BUY IT! Chances are it will be gone in a few weeks being replaced by something else or nothing at all. Which puts you back to square one. Fun Times. Basically, you can take the above specs that I gave the green light on and find a similar configuration. It doesn’t have to be Dell. i also like the Digital Storm Lynx Line. Here is one for $1699 that is “Good for Photo Editing.” https://www.digitalstorm.com/configurator.asp?id=4387425 pair that with a decent IPS monitor and a current calibration tool, and you have a nice system for way less than $3000.

But the G Drive connects to your new MBP via Thunderbolt with no issues?

I found something interesting!! The Ports on the left of the 2016 MacBooks are different than the ones on the right. It seems that you want the laptop to be plugged in and use the TB Ports on the left with your G-Drive. The article just mentions a 13” MacBook, but I have a sneaky suspicion your Mac Book might fall under similar circumstances, especially if the power output is differs on the right side, 7.5W vs the Left Side, 15W. https://gadgets360.com/laptops/news/apple-says-not-all-thunderbolt-3-ports-on-the-13-inch-macbook-pro-2016-are-equally-fast-1586985 Let’s try hooking the G-Drive up to one of the TB3 Ports on the left side of that laptop and use the TB3 port on the G-Drive.

Ok, the Thunderbolt Ports on the G-Drive, there are two of them. They have a picture of a Lightning Bolt above them and are in the rectangular circle. There is a single USB-C port to the left. (I know…DUH!) This laptop. Is it your 2018 Mac Book or is it something else? What make/model/year? This is the one you have issues with? Or is it working? In reality, we want to use the TB port on the drive, (I use the left TB3 port and will use the Right TB3 Port to hook up to another TB3 drive,) and use a TB3 port on the computer for the fastest transfer speeds.

Take a photo of the back of the G-Drive, the ports on your laptop and post them here. I’m good, but not that good…I need to see.

That G-Drive has its own power. All 7200 RPM Drives need more power. The slower 5400 RPM drives can usually work without AC Adapters. I know people have love-affairs with laptops, but unfortunately, people tend to use them as desktop replacements. Combine that with Manufacturers cutting corners and you may not be able to use a hub, regardless what you buy because your laptop has limits. You’d think otherwise, because that’s logical, but USB-C is still kinda new on the scene (though it’s getting better) and hopefully manufacturers will start beefing up the USB-C ports, because there are variations of it. For example, your laptop might only want one device at a time hooked up to it, since the manufacturer cut corners and it doesn’t have enough power. You as a photographer might want to hook up a card reader and theee external HDs at the same time. There may not be any resources available to drive 4 devices. It should, but like I said, it doesn’t always work. I hate laptops.

Oh! I know what you did! You went from Thunderbolt on the computer to USB C on the drive. Yeah, don’t do that. 😄

To be honest, im surprised there aren’t more available. Plenty of USB 3.0 Powered Hubs, but no USB-C. If the hub is causing issues, don’t use it. (Obviously.) There is a lack of choices on this side of the world, but I found this one: Satechi 4-Port USB-C Hub – Data Transfer Only (No Charging/Video) – Compatible with 2021 MacBook Pro M1 Pro & Max, 2020 MacBook Air/Pro M1, 2021 iPad Pro M1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Satechi-4-Port-USB-C-Hub-Compatible/dp/B09BNXMHSL/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?crid=39GFEKE8AFPIF&keywords=satechi+usb+c+hub&qid=1662918231&sprefix=satechi+%2Caps%2C221&sr=8-18# Now, if you still have issues, I’m going to assume that your USB C port on your computer can’t handle multiple devices or doesn’t have enough power to support them. In which case you are looking at a new computer.

It’s possible. You could have issues with your older MacBook and the Thunderbolt ports. It wouldn’t surprise me. MacBooks…I’m not a fan, but people have this love-affair with them. I’d use the USB 3.0 ports on your older laptop. It will take longer to transfer data, but it should work. If you still have issues, I’m wondering if there is unknown issues with your older computer.

We don't have to do anything. The G-Drive is perfectly setup for use on your Mac. "Format: Mac OS Extended (Journaled)" is what you want. Each EHD, going forward, will be set to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) YOU DO NOT NEED PARAGON TO READ ANY WINDOWS DRIVE. THE MACOS WILL READ A WINDOWS DRIVE WITHOUT ISSUE, IT JUST WILL NOT WRITE TO IT! Paragon is required if you are reading / writing data for use on BOTH a Mac and a Windows Machine. Apple wants you to switch to a Mac from Windows, so they make it REALLY EASY TO. I feel you have done some over-thinking and that is causing issues (your "Paranoia" will be your un-doing. While it's fine to be Paranoid, not having things setup correctly and doing what you have been doing will eventually cause you to lose data!) Before we continue, I want you to do what you did above and let me know what FORMAT is for each of your externals. You don't have to do screen shots, just type the HD Name and what it is. We may have to copy a HD large enough to your new G-Drive 1st, eject it and then hook it up to the Windows Computer. At that point we will nuke the drive. Then start migrating your Windows files to it. After which, THAT drive will be hooked up to the Mac, without Paragon getting in the way. (I swear, that program works well most of the time, but it isn't bullet-proof.) Before we do anything I want to see how each of your drives is setup. If one doesn't read on the Mac, that's fine, move onto the next. Then I want you to create a list of which drives will mount on the Mac and which ones will only work with a Windows Computer. We need to take inventory before we attempt anything. Also, have sticky notes handy and put one on each drive so you can keep them straight. Give the EHD a name, and then write "Mac" "Win" or "Both." Then get back to me. PS: Get rid of Paragon! I want that program gone from your Mac!

I have no idea what you did. What model is this? What Mode are you in? Full Manual? Shutter Priority? I can't duplicate this on my camera. Are you in any Live View Mode?

Try the other drive on the TB3 port for a few days. If it doesn’t crash, contact G-Drive. It should have a year warranty at the very least. Fortunately you can get to the drive via USB to transfer your images to the new drive. Also, you can hook up the drive to the TB3 port again to produce the error message. Then snap a photo with your phone. You want as much evidence as possible and tell them it seems to be an issue with the TB3 port on the drive? It works fine via USB and you other G-Drive works fine on the TB3. Basically you just want them to swap out the drive. Some of them might have a 5 year warranty. Here is info: https://www.westerndigital.com/support/store/warranty-policy/g-technology Sandisk owns Western Digital, and WD owns G-Drive.

If the USB Ports work fine, then it's most likely the Thunderbolt Ports on your Motherboard, which is a replacement Motherboard. Which is expensive.

Yes. Give them a call. Be sure to have a copy of the Sales Receipt/ Proof-of-purchase handy. Do not send them the original. Also, that TB3 drive should have USB 3.0 ports. The problem might be with the Motherboard and the TB3 ports specifically. Try the USB side and see what happens.

The 2020 27” iMacs can be calibrated with the current devices. It’s just that HD, 256GB is meant for “General Computing,” not Photoshop Work. Honestly, at this point in time, I’d be on the hunt for a 27” iMac from 2020. That’s where you should focus your efforts. 2017 Macs, while fine for right now, may not be in a year or two. I’m hoping mine lasts until 2025 before I buy a new one. If I had to purchase a used Mac now, it would be a 2020 27” iMac with a decent video card and 1TB HD. RAM, don’t care because I can upgrade it myself. (Well, if it’s an Intel Mac.) I’d probably upgrade my 2020 27” iMac to 72GB of RAM. I’d add two 32GB Sticks and keep the existing 8GB that comes with the computer.

That’s the tough thing with “What to Buy” articles, things change and availability at a future moment in time. DO NOT BUY A MAC WITH A 256GB HD!!! 1TB or more! Trust me! You buy any Mac for PS Work and I will guarantee that you will be right back in here asking questions (begging for help) because PS is complaining about lack of space for the scratch disk. Keep saving. it sucks to be in the Market now for a new computer. Everything costs more. Homes in my area jumped $200,000 - $300,000 in price. (And I don’t live in a “rich” area.) Windows Computers that are “Good for Photo Editing,” cost $2500 - $3000. Macs are over the $5000 Mark. New Macintosh Computers CAN NOT BE UPGRADED AFTER THE INITIAL PURCHASE. Apple wants you to “Go Big or Go Home.” The CPU, RAM, HD Controller and GPU are all built into one chip! So there is no upgrading after the fact. The days of buying a Mac, then adding RAM in a few years are OVER. They are more like glorified iPads…need more RAM? A bigger HD? Buy a new Computer! Whatever you do, avoid buying a 21.5” Mac, even though it’s tempting. They are a waste of money. I’m currently running on a 27” iMac from 2017. PS is using more resources now, but it still works. I hope to get another 3 years out of mine.

Yes!! Get rid of it!! You might need to use the McAfee Removal Tool. Head to this website for more info: https://www.mcafee.com/support/?articleId=TS101331&page=shell&shell=article-view The Removal Tool is really hidden on purpose. Head to “Method Two” and look for this: See where the “MCPR tool” is above? That’s a link to the software on their website! Like I said, it’s hidden in plain sight. Just download it and run the Tool. It should Nuke McAfee.

It really depends on your budget and what’s your storage needs are. The way I do things I’d I have one main external drive, 12TB and a 4TB drive that is my Time Machine Drive. The TM drive just backs up the internal Mac HD, it never touches the External 12TB. Then once a month I clone the external drive to another 12TB drive and that drive is kept off site. Most of my photos these days are vacation photos, I really don’t shoot Weddings that much these days, so a monthly dump works for me. You might want to do yours weekly or every two weeks. It all depends on your level of Paranoia, umm…I mean Comfort Level. The import thing is to get to a point of having a HD loss is more of an annoyance rather than a major catastrophe. That starts with good file management and a offsite backup. Here is more info of the 3-2-1 Backup Strategy: 3-2-1 Backup Strategy. 3 - Three copies of your important data files. 2 - Two different storage mediums. 1 - One of these mediums are kept at a different location...off-site. Fire, floods, theft, etc. are always a possibility. Live in the Desert and aren’t worried about a flood? A busted water pipe in a ceiling above your computer can cause all sorts of damage by creating a “flood.” I also have a friend who suffered two catastrophic data losses, actually three. One was due to digital rot, the CDs that had ALL of her 1st born photographs just rotted over time. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the disk, but after sitting in a box after 10+ years, the CD couldn’t be read by any DVD drive. The 1st and 0’s that make up data just disappeared over time. The second was a HD failure, where the HD heads came into contact with the spinning aluminum platters that your data resides on. Basically at 5400 RPM, when the heads came into contact, it scored/shredded the platters. There was nothing but a lot of aluminum dust when the Data Recovery company opened the drive to see the extent of damage. No data recovery was possible. It was all gone, permanently. Kid #1 and Kid #2’s photos were lost. Third catastrophic failure, her house was broken into. Her laptop and external HD were stolen. Kid #1, #2 AND #3 photos, from birth to then-present were lost. She is a bit more paranoid now and has backups of backups in multiple locations. Oh, which also leads me to this... “Print what you want to preserve!!” - Missy MWAC. Technology changes. In 74 years, do you think that USB will still be around? Will it even exist or be supported? “Grandpa Joe” who is your young son now, may not have any images available to future generations. Remember MySpace? LOL! FB, IG, Flickr, any Cloud Service is not guaranteed forever. Look at Kodak. 😉 So print your photos every now and then. It’s a different “Medium,” even if they aren’t popular, it’s another form of backup. —————— Now some people may suggest a Gun Safe as a place to store HDs… Keep in mind, Safes usually aren’t fire-proof, just fire-resistant. It’s rated at so many hours at a maximum temperature. So if your fire exceeds that rating, chances are you will have burned documents and gooey lenses / other computer hardware after the fire is put out. So be sure to read the fine-print for your particular safe. Hence, an off-site location for your data. So while a gun safe might be one option in terms of Theft, I wouldn’t discount Fire & Water Damage. YMMV.

I’d have to hear this noise. If it’s normal HD chatter, it’s probably fine. If it’s a Ka-Thump…click-click-click….ka-thump (dramatic pause) ka-thump… Then I’d say you have a bad HD that was damaged in shipping and I wouldn’t trust it. My G-drives are a bit noisy and chatter when they first mount. Remember, these are 7200 RPM Enterprise Grade HDs, they are loud. Maybe take a video with your phone and try to post it here? I’d like to hear these drives.

What do you have hooked up to your Mac? Any HDs? External Displays? Stuff like that. The CATRR error is a critical error on the Intel Based Motherboards. The cause could be the motherboard itself, or something as simple as a Video Adapter that goes to a external display. Other times it’s a faulty EHD or bad RAM. Hell( the power supply could be dying on you. So what I would do next is unhook any external devices and see what happens. I will warn you, no diagnostic software seems to detect this problem. So the Genius Bar won’t help and they will blame it on the Motherboard or any 3rd party RAM. So you are going to have to play detective; this problem is just a Pain in the Ass to deal with.