Brian

Oh, an i7 would work "fine" for Photoshop in 2022. But I build my computers with a 7-8 year time-frame in mind. An i9 will get you to 7-8 years, a i7...probably 4-5 at most. So plan on buying a new Mac in about 4-5 years or so, for when Photoshop CC 2027 is released. Remember, each and every update to PS, Adobe makes it more bloated and incompatible. LOL!!

The problem with the 24" iMac, is that it's a M1 Mac. Which means, NO UPGRADING AFTER THE FACT. Everything is built into ONE Chip. RAM, CPU, HD, Video Processor, basically the whole computer is built into one chip. So you need to spend Apple's over-priced upgrades at the time of purchase. PLUS!! the current 24" M1 Screens don't play well with today's current calibration devices. So forget calibrating those 24" iMacs. So no...I really don't recommend a 21.5" iMac or even a 24" Model. Out of the two, yes the 24" is "better," but I think we need to wait another few years before I start telling people to go out and buy a M1 Mac. Of course, it's your money / wallet and I can totally see where a 24" Model would be way more affordable. I can say this, you are an early-adopter and that comes with all of the benefits and drawbacks with being one. So expect problems. Expect weird shit to happen. Expect to ask "Why is this computer doing this?" You will have to just suck-it-up and deal with it until a patch is released for whatever you might experience. Some folks rave about their M1 Macs and tell me that I'm completely wrong. That's fine.

First things first... I want to check that you are NOT using the Time Machine Drive to store other files. Correct? The ONLY files on the Time Machine Drive should be Time Machine Backups. Sometimes Time Machine drives just get full and you need to start deleting things. Or you can purchase and use a program that I highly recommend, CleanMyMac X from Macpaw.com. Right now it seems to be on sale for a 1 year subscription. In addition to the benefits of keeping your Mac tidy, they also have a Time Machine Trimming Feature: Basically, you can kill the Time Machine Backups that are really-really old, or if you want format the Time Machine Drive and start over. It all depends on your comfort level. Second, the other EHD... I would just hookup the G-Drive and just use it as an external. That's what I do. I have a 4TB dedicated Time Machine Drive, and a 12TB External Drive that is hooked up via the Thunderbolt 3 port. The TM drive is just a USB 3.0 G-Drive. I really don't need "Speed" for a TM drive since it basically only does one thing, and it does it by itself. The trick is setting up your Mac to make accessing the Externals MUCH easier. I want you to take a look at this article that I wrote, specifically read "Part 2." That will give you instructions on how to get your Mac HDs, Camera Cards, DVDs, etc. to appear on your Mac Desktop. Then it's just a matter of treating the EHD just like your internal hard drive. Third, if you are looking to clone your Hard Drive, I'd recommend purchasing a program called SuperDuper! That program has been around since the 1990's and is one of those "Classic" Programs that still holds up after all these years. It will automatically clone your HD, or even a specific folder if you want, at a certain time. The only thing is, your partition on BOTH drives needs to be Mac Formatted, no stupid exFAT partitions, SuperDuper! won't see the drives. I'd recommend making sure that all your drives are Mac OS Extended (Journaled) before going forward. What happens if they are exFAT Partitioned? You need to get another HD, delete any existing partitions (unless they are already Mac OS Extended (Journaled,) create the correct partition type, format it then manually copy all of your files from the one drive to the blank one. Once you are 100% sure that everything is copied over, you then NUKE the old HD, re-partition it to Mac OS Extended Journaled, Format it...THEN copy everything back. I would not recommend using any software that promises to "Convert" a Partition Type. It's too risky an frankly you are just wasting your money. Edit: How do you find out how your HDs are partitioned? Simply use the Disk Utility App under the "Utilities" Folder which is in the Applications Folder. Here is mine: Underneath G-Drive 12TB (select the drive first) it will tell you the Partition Type:

Not in my groups. They can create threads and only myself or one of the Admins can comment. The only exception is "The Land of Misfit Toys" in where I'm wanting input from others. I keep things locked down as to cut the chiming-in. My time is limited with my day-job and I do not want to waste time arguing with people that need to STFU or give the wrong info trying to "Help." So the three main groups it's just me and the OP in the threads, I will never go back to the days of FB Ask Brian.

I personally don't like laptops, especially for photo-editing, but people are addicted/refuse to give them up and I got tired of arguing. There are several pinned articles in both the Windows and Mac Forums. If you want something that is going to last 5+ years, expect to pay more than you are thinking. It's 2022!!! $4+ for a Gallon of Gas and there is still a chip-shortage. To top things off, you really need to read the fine-print on what you are buying. Yesterday's $500 Computers are today's $1500 models. Manufacturers have cut corners and cheaped out on offerings, so they can keep prices "low" and not be the Bad Guys. So you really-really-really need to look at the technical specifications. If you are going to stay Mac, Apple is and has always been a "Go Big or Go Home" company. You will get penalized for choosing a cheaper model in terms of upgrades. Apple likes charging more for the same damn thing if you went with a lower priced Mac than if you just picked the more expensive option to begin with!!! Usually it's around $100 or so, give or take. For example, say you picked a $1999 27" iMac and upgraded the HD. That upgrade option will be $100 more than if you picked the more expensive $2399 model and chose the same exact HD Upgrade, which would be a $100 less with the more expensive model. Sneaky, eh? So in the long run, when it comes to Apple, you really aren't saving THAT MUCH by going with the cheaper option; it's almost always better to go with the most expensive option and fiddle with things. In the end, it only costs you about $100 or so more. And when you are talking $3000-$4000 for a computer, $100-ish is minuscule.

Damien, did you mess with something on the back-end? How was Alan able to post in this thread?

You need to stop with the VPNs. At least for now. Unless you need one for work? Also, you need to be careful as some computers may already have a VPN installed that is part of a Security Suite Package. Are you in a Concrete Building? Are you getting packet loss even if you hook up via a hard-wire Ethernet connection? If so, you might have wiring issues from your house to the "Pole" or wherever your house is connected to the outside world. Told you that HP was my least favorite! But do you listen to me? LOL!! Pththththpppphhh!!!!

THIS IS VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY BAD!!!!!! Once you get above 95% full on your main HD, you are at risk of Data Corruption, meaning I'm surprised it's booting at all. 8 years is a good run for any computer. The 16GB of RAM is the bare-minimum in 2022 and I'd recommend that you go higher if you can. Honestly? It's time for a new one, and I just don't say that willingly. Sure, I'm very good at spending other people's money, but it really sucks to be in the market for a new computer right now. I can recommend purchasing CleanMyMac X from Macpaw.com to help with getting some storage space, but you really need to move lots of files to another drive. I want that 16.9GB closer to 300GB free. Seriously. I'm not kidding. Any "Maintenance" that we do is just a Band-Aid. Start saving, you need a new computer. Edit: Crap. It's a Mac Laptop. There really isn't much to upgrade after the fact when it comes to a Mac Laptop. Especially when things are soldered to the motherboard. It's still time for a new computer. No, I don't recommend Mac Laptops. Unless you want to spend around $4200, which is just nuts.

I like MSI’s stuff, followed by the Asus ROG model for $2799. At the bottom of my list is HP. If I had to make a choice, with a gun-to-my-head, it would be the Asus ROG for $2799 with RAM upgraded to at least 32GB. Honestly, see if they can keep the existing RAM and add more, bump it to 48GB if possible.

It is just the worst time to be in the market for a new computer!! You really need a 1TB drive, and you are stuck with only one store with limited options. Unless it has a 1TB drive, don’t brother linking, it’s a waste of time. Each of the computers that you are linking to are “fine,” it’s just the blasted 512GB HD. You can always replace/upgrade it at a later date. But if you are stuck with Harvey Norman, you are kinda stuck with what they are offering. Why is 512GB such a big deal? It’s because your HD just isn’t for storage, but for areas on the HD treated as RAM. The two primary ones that most photographers deal with are the Photoshop Scratch Disk and the Windows Pagefile.sys, aka, the Windows Swap File. These two areas are treated as RAM to supplement the lack of resources from you computer. Each browser tab you have open, each program, every image, every background process, every hardware driver, all of it… takes a little slice of resources. So in reality, you won’t have 32GB to play with, that’s why it’s so important to upgrade to 32GB in 2022 and honestly? 64GB isn’t bad to have either. Especially if you have a high MP camera body. (36MP or more.) So back to the HD. 1TB just gives you a little more “breathing room” than a 512GB model. You don’t have to think as much. Why are the manufacturers only putting in these small drives? Because they are cheap and we have shortages due to COVID that still haven’t gone away. Just like here in the States we “almost” get a Gallon of Ice Cream or that box of whatever has two less packets of ________. This is a way to keep prices down and give the manufacturers the ability to keep their “Bragging Rights” of 15 Second or less boot times that you get with the Flash Media Based HDs. Make sense? At the end of the day it boils down to this: i7 or i9 CPU A video card that has a dedicated GPU and dedicated Video Memory. I like 8GB of Video RAM. PS usually plays well with NVIDIA Cards. I like the NVIDIA GTX3070, but a 3060 should also work nicely 1TB Main Drive 32GB RAM So whatever computer you end up getting, as long as it has those Four Main Items, you should be fine. Remember, everything is cheap shit made in China, all of it. The parts / computers might be assembled somewhere else, but the individual components that make up the parts are almost always made in China. Bottom Line: Try to get the “Best Bang for your Buck.” You can deal with a 512GB HD or purchase a larger one and see if a local repair shop will clone the drive for you and install it. It sounds like Harvey Norman doesn’t offer this sort of thing or wants to deal with it. Yes, we can move the Windows Swap File and PS Scratch Disk to the 2nd HD, but again this is a temporary fix and you will need to be Hyper-Anal on what is installed on the C Drive.

Why are you using VPNs? I know security blah-blah-blah. Or you desperately want to watch TV Shows that are only available in a different country?

Mac Laptops are a complete waste of money...and this is coming from someone who is typing this sentence on a fancy 27" iMac Computer. Apple is and has always been a "Go Big or Go Home" company. You are spending a lot more money going with a Mac Laptop. Combine that with the fact that they are switching all of their computers to the M1 architecture, Adobe has not worked out all the bugs yet. I wouldn't recommend getting a M1 Mac...soon to be a M2 Mac in the next few months for at least a few years. Even if you spend lots of money on a fancy MacBook Pro, you are only getting 4-5 years out of the damn thing and I really don't like "leasing" my computer for $1000+ per year, well that what it works out to be. The only think about that MSI model is the 512GB HD. It doesn't sound bad, but you don't have 512GB to play with, probably around 300 or so, after the Bloatware and Windows OS is installed. Then you need to be hyper-anal on what gets put on that HD. Basically, it's only one or two programs. You won't be able to go "Next-Next-Next...OK...Next...Finish" without thinking. Every program, every file, every little thing...you will need to check on if it's being sent to the C Drive or the D Drive. Everything defaults to the C Drive and before you know it, you are running out of room and then you will be posting in here wondering why your brand-new computer is running "Soooo Sloooow...." Save yourself the grief. 512GB is great for a couple of programs and general computing. As soon as you throw Photoshop into the mix, your needs change and you are no longer a "General Computer" user.

Oh, if you get Windows 10 Pro, there is a way to keep it from upgrading to Windows 11. Unfortunately, most store-bought computers come with Windows Home Edition. You can always upgrade it to "Pro," and most people don't "need" Pro's features, but basically all of the stuff under the hood is turned on with the Pro version and this allows you to help fix things in the future.

Can you also hook up via a hard-wired Ethernet cable instead of stupid Wi-Fi. I hate Wi-Fi. So much that I ran Cat 6 Cable in my house. It's too bad my wife won't let me cut holes in walls to get it to the 2nd floor. LOL!!

Ooh...this is a tough one. MSI makes great stuff, and I'm leaning towards that brand, but the 1TB for the main drive in the HP is better. Spec-wise, the HP looks better on paper. But I like MSI's stuff. Basically, the only thing that concerns me is that small-ish 512GB HD. You can't go wrong either way. But 32GB RAM and getting a 1TB Main HD would be the best. Maybe you can upgrade the MSI? See how much it will cost you extra.

You are an "Early Adopter" and with the M1 line, comes with brand-new architecture that Adobe needs to figure out. Unfortunately, you are just going to have to deal with the M1 issues until Adobe works out the bugs over the next few years. Make sure you are on the latest and greatest version of Photoshop CC 2022, which means Version 23.2.1 as I type this. Otherwise, you might have to contact Adobe on this one, I've got nothing. This is why I keep telling people "No" when they ask about buying a M1 Mac or not. Adobe will always find a way to make their sh*t more bloated and incompatible with every Mac Update, and a M1 is a BIG UPDATE. I have a feeling it will take a few years to get things straightened out.

Yep. That's the problem with having two or more drives, you can't just click "next-next-next..." LOL!! You need to by hyper anal on ever setting, every screen choice, etc. because everything defaults to the C Drive. At least you have a starting point. Once we get your photos moved over, let me know how much space is free. Sometimes "Temp" files can suck up hard drive space.

That’s because they don’t have them as an option. You are going to have to look somewhere else other than Costco. A manufacturer will brag, well… at least point out the amount of video memory and graphics processor type. The one you linked to mentioned “Intel,” but did not list separate video memory. You have to remember, we are still dealing with COVID and short supplies on things. Not just laptops and such, but the individual components that make up the larger things. Take a look at this laptop: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1639833-REG Look at the highlights: See the NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050 Ti? That’s the dedicated video GPU type. Granted, I’m not liking the 512GB HD, but at least this gives you something to go on. In reality, you are looking at a gaming laptop.

That 220GB out of 930 concerns me. I’d try moving some files over to your D Drive. Let’s get that number closer to 500-600GB free.

Nope. DSLRs are on their way out. Mirrorless is all the rage.

Shutter count is a shutter count. Dead Pixels are just that, Dead Pixels. Yes, they can grow. Don’t bother fixing a 10 year old camera. But that’s your choice. Either send it to Canon or ditch it.

That laptop almost checks all of the boxes. The part that concerns me is the video card itself. It’s great that it is a IPS display, but the other part is the video card needs to have its own dedicated processor called a GPU and have its own dedicated video memory. Somewhere around 8GB. This laptop lists neither and I feel that it’s using a chunk of the RAM in addition to the CPU in order to work. Today’s modern photoshop relies on a dedicated GPU and dedicated Video Memory as a performance boost. I’d say keep shopping. Sorry.

Yep, looks like a dead pixel. You will need to send it to Canon for repair. Often they will just remap the bad pixel to one that is close by, otherwise you are replacing the sensor. Or buying a newer camera. Cost? I’d say a few hundred for shipping & labor. Honestly? You might be better served by getting a used 5DM3 body that’s in good shape. 10 years or so is a very good run technology-wise. If I was in your shoes, I’d be looking at a 5D Mark IV. Or jump to Mirrorless, but that’s going to be really expensive. Why so much to jump to Mirrorless? Because I don’t care how the manufacturers spin things or what a YouTube personality says, to get the most out of your Mirrorless Body, you need the Mirrorless Lenses to go with it. I don’t care that “there is an adapter.” Yep. There is. But you will end up buying a new set of lenses in the long run. Used 5DM3 or 5DM4 in good shape is what you should be after.

The biggest culprit that causes Windows to slow down is usually due to a lack of HD Space, followed by a slew of Windows Updates waiting in the queue to be installed, followed by a lack of RAM. I’m going to need the particulars of your computer as there just isn’t a single answer to “Why is my computer running so slow?” It could be 20+ different things that I can think of off the top-of-my-head.

I’m also moving this thread to the Windows Hardware Group.