Brian

It's a Gateway. That's why you were having issues. They were known to sell defective product right out of the box. That's why they aren't around anymore. The $1099 laptop...I swear, what is it about laptops? Anyway, touch screens are a bitch to calibrate. Sorry. I'd pass on this one. Do you want a Windows laptop? If so, create a thread in the Windows forum.

Thom Hogan is the person I look towards when I have questions. Here is his review on the Sony A7 Mark III. Give it a read.

Back-Button Focus is not the end-all-and-be-all that it's made to be. It's a technique, just like everything else. What burns people the most these days is the higher the MP you go on the camera, the faster the shutter speed you must use. Plus, Image Stabilization / Vibration Reduction in lenses helps greatly these days, especially with high MP cameras. So it's just not the camera body and focus modes, quality lenses make all the difference as well. The other thing with Sony, and Nikon camera bodies is to make sure you are using the latest firmware. Often, especially in the Mirrorless world, firmware upgrades really make a difference. In fact, the latest round of Firmware Updates for the Nikon Z6 and Z7 really improved focusing to where it's really usable and has give a Sony a run for its money. OK, speaking of Sony. The Sony A7 Mark III is a decent camera. It's at the bottom end of the full frame line-up that we get from Sony. It's well regarded from what I can tell, (I'm a Nikon DSLR Shooter) and the Measurebators on the internet seem to be having a love-affair with Sony. The issue I have with Sony, is what lenses are you going to be looking at to pair it up with? Because quality lenses, are not cheap. If it were up to me, I'd look at either getting a 24-70 f/2.8 lens or a 24-105 f/4 lens. There is a sale currently running due to the holidays, so it's worth saving a few dollars. Here is a decent Sony Kit, for about $4000 at B&H. For a comparison, I recently held a Nikon Z6 camera with a Nikon 24-120mm f/4 lens attached, with F-Mount adapter. I was able to hand-held at 1/15th of a second, and get a tack-sharp photo, zoomed out to 200mm. Needless to say, I was really impressed. So much that when Nikon comes out with a professional-grade Mirrorless body, I will be in line to get one. The nice part with the Nikon Z system is that with the F-Mount Adapter, you have a broad range of lens choices to utilize. So between the two, sure you can stay with Sony, but both Nikon and Canon have a clear lens and lens mount strategy going forward. Between Canon and Nikon Mirrorless, I'd pick Nikon at this point. As far as the Sony a55 series. if all you have is a 18-55mm kit lens to go with it, that's really a consumer-grade entry-level kit. So I'm not surprised you aren't getting good results. That said, knowing what Shutter Speed, ISO, Aperture to use plus the correct focusing system are the real ingredients to getting good photographs. I have really expensive / pro-grade gear, with all the fancy lenses. I have spent A LOT of money in the past 12 or so years on this sh*t, and guess what? I still take awful photographs from time-to-time. I still blow it.....just with a fancy camera & lens. So while gear does play a role, ESPECIALLY WITH QUALITY PRO-GRADE LENSES, technique and you as the photographer are a bigger role. Whatever path you choose, should be a big improvement. There is a huge difference between the consumer-grade stuff and high-end/pro stuff. Right now if you are able, visit a camera store that has both the Nikon and Sony Camera bodies on display. Play with them. Fiddle with them. Go through the menus, see which one is easier to use. You might be surprised that Sony may not be in your future, but another brand. Remember, not only are you buying into a Brand, but a LENS SYSTEM. What lenses do you see purchasing in the next few years?

I know. I’m no fun.

RAM is mandatory. It’s soldered to the main board. You can’t upgrade after the fact. Video Card, you could live with the 4GB version, but I’d still start with the $2799 MBP. If you want performance with a new MBP, you are spending $3700. Since you are happy with your current MBP, get the screen replaced. I’m not going to give you the answer you want to hear...and that’s you spending $2300. From my POV, that’s wasting $2300 and I’m a firm believer in “Buy it Right-Buy it Once” mentality. I’d fix your MBP and be done with it. Upgrade in a few years.

It sounds like you are deleting thumbnails/previews and not the actual file. I’ve got nothing. Adobe is going to have to get involved again. Hopefully you will get someone better.

I’m just to write an article about these two new 16” MBP laptops. Yes, there is a performance difference from your current laptop, and between the two, the 2.3GHz ($2799) model is the better deal. Not only do you get double the HD capacity, you get a better video card as well. The important thing is to upgrade the RAM to 32GB in either model. I would also upgrade the Video Card to the 8GB Version. MBP laptops are sealed units and upgrading after the fact is damn near impossible. Unfortunately, Apple’s price on RAM is insanely expensive. The configuration that I’m recommending, with AppleCare should bring the cost to $3700 or so; I realize is an expensive pill to swallow. Apple wants you to “Go Big or Go Home” more than ever. if you do decide to go with the lower model, I’d still get 32GB RAM which adds $400 to the cost. Bottom line: The true upgrade you are looking for will cost you almost $4000. The repair will be $1000. Time is money, and if you are using this laptop to make money for a living, then this might be one of those costs of doing business and is a tax write off if you are on the books. If this is just for personal use a $1000 repair bill is better before the holidays. Basically, how much do you want to spend? $1000 or $3700 because $2300 isn’t going to make you THAT impressed. My configuration:

I love it when Adobe has no idea on how to fix their software. On the bright side, they didn't break anything. OK, let's try a few things. One, I want to see if you can download and run the OLDER version of Bridge, 20.0.7. Head to the Adobe App Manager, click on the Gear Icon at the top right. Click on the Apps section in the left column, and then look towards the right. Make sure Auto-Update is Turned Off. Then scroll towards the bottom and under the Settings Section, Turn On Show Older Apps and click Done. I'm not seeing Bridge 20.0.7 in my list on my iMac, so I'm thinking Adobe hasn't really updated it that much. You might want to try un-installing and re-installing Bridge next. The other thing I can think of, is head to your Mac OS Settings, which is the Gear Icon on the DockBar. Choose Security & Privacy, it looks like a little house in the top section. Click the little Padlock in the lower left section and type in the Administrator Password, (probably your password.) Then select the Accessibility Section. Click the little PLUS to add a program: Then under the Applications Folder, select the Adobe Bridge 2020 folder, then the Adobe Bridge App/Program in the Right Column & Click Open: If done correctly, Bridge should appear in the list: The last step is to click the Padlock to "Lock" your Mac and then click the Red Circle. I would reboot at this point, just to be on the safe side and try deleting files again in Bridge. Keep me posted.

This seems to be a known issue and you will need to reset Bridge’s Preferences to fix it. https://community.adobe.com/t5/photoshop/can-t-delete-files-in-bridge-2018/td-p/9705058

List hasn’t been published yet. It’s still in my head. Actually, truth be told...I do not recommend laptops for photo-editing. I just got tired of arguing since everyone seems hell-bent on buying a laptop for portability and convenience. From my point of view, if you are serious about photo-editing, a Calibrated Desktop screen is a must. Even if you have to hook it up to a laptop. In fact a member was kind enough to report that this laptop is only 72% color gamut, in which I need to confirm.

240GB Main Drives...they are just too small by my standards. Most of "My Hard Drive is Full!" or "Why is PS complaining about the Scratch Disk?" stem from full hard drives, especially ones that are 250GB or less. Manufactures put them in computers for one reason: they are cheap. It keeps their COGS low and you can claim that Windows 10 boots in about 15 seconds. Too bad you need to be super ANAL on what gets installed on that drive. You can't just go next-next-next...OK...next-next...Finish blindly on a small main HD. Forget photo sessions or data, that drive is meant for the OS and a program or two at best. The slightly more expensive model is well worth the month. Double the main HD capacity and a better video card for not that much more. You can always add a third hard drive yourself, for not a lot of money, down the road.

Between the two, I like the one that has a 512GB SSD Drive in it and the upgraded video card. I'd buy this one: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpowerpc-gaming-desktop-intel-core-i7-9700k-32gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-rtx-2070-super-2tb-hard-drive-512gb-ssd-white/6360116.p?skuId=6360116

Can you link to this laptop? I'd like to add it to the list.

Ok, fantasic!! Another laptop that has a IPS based screen. That makes two. What I would do is: Keep the Processor at the default - i7 9750H. There is only a marginal boost in performance with the other one, and chances are Photoshop won't take advantage of it. If you were looking to play video games or even edit video, the upgraded CPU might be worth it, but in reality, it's not a $155 worth of a performance increase. Definitely upgrade the video card to at least the T2000. If you want to go higher, that's fine too, but I'd rather have you get more RAM. Speaking of which... As far as RAM, there seems to be four slots on the motherboard. Each slot can take up to a 32GB Stick of RAM. If you want to go all the way up to 128GB, that's four 32GB sticks. The screen shot above, you have chosen a single 16GB Stick of RAM. If you were to upgrade, all you would do is add more RAM in the remaining three slots. Personally, I'd upgrade the RAM to the single 32GB option for a $150 more. 16GB is the MINIMUM that I recommend for Windows 10 Computers these days. If you have a camera that has 24MP or more, you definitely want 32GB. With my iMac, I'm at 64GB due to me having a Nikon D850.

Laptops amongst this class should last 3-5 years. That’s when a Lithium-Ion battery usually needs replacing.

Hmm. I was going on the Dell Suggested Up-Sell items. Remember how I said Sealed units are all the rage? Guess what, Dell XPS Laptops don’t have swappable / user replaceable batteries. It’s just the sign of the times. Laptops lasting 8-10 years are a thing of the past. The manufacturers want you back in the market, sooner than later.

Trying to find an extra / spare OEM battery 3 years from now will be impossible. I've gone through this multiple times with my customers. Hell, even after 6 months trying to find an extra OEM battery will be near-impossible. It is totally worth the upgrade. Like I said, even if you just put the battery away for a few years and use it when the initial one wears out, will be well worth the cost. In fact, the pain of buying an extra will be rewarded when all you have to do is pop the spare one in, around 3 years. It will be like having a new laptop all over again.

Partly is the planned obsolescence with the laptop, the other is you’d be surprised on how batteries aren’t removable anymore. Sealed units are all the rage, but I think this model you can buy a battery and replace it. Speaking of batteries, it’s not a bad idea to get a Dell OEM battery, the sooner the better. I’ve never had a after-market battery work in a laptop at all my years doing this. Even if you don’t use it right away.

OMG! Thud! (Brian gets up off the floor...) I just took a look at that laptop’s specs. THANK YOU! That is the first laptop I’ve seen in MONTHS that ticks all of my “boxes.” BUY IT!!! This is one of those times that the “pain of purchase” will be non-existent a few years from now. Don’t cheap out. The other thing is Windows Laptops are taking a cue from Apple and are becoming more "sealed units" these days, so upgrading after the fact is usually difficult. Without seeing this particular laptop in my hands, I can't make a true assessment, just a generalization. Having 32GB RAM, a 1TB m.2 SSD HD, dedicated Video RAM and a IPS screen means you won't have to touch this laptop upgrade-wise, if at all, over the course of its life. I am about to link to this laptop to answer the "What laptop should I buy for Photo-Editing" FAQ. I want you to buy it before it goes out of stock, since I consider you having "Dibs." I will stay quite until tomorrow, Sunday Nov. 24th. You have no idea on how excited I am about this configuration. Non-Glossy IPS screens in laptops are extremely RARE these days.

Remember, laptops you get 4 or so years out of. Even the insanely Apple MacBook Pros. If you spend a “little extra,” you do usually get what you pay for. A $500 laptop lasts about 12-18 months. $700-$1000, About two years. $1000-$1500, About three or so years. Maybe even more. Anything above $1500 is 3-5 years as well, you just either have more performance or gadgets on those models. Personally, I feel the $1000-$1500 range (non-black Friday prices) is the sweet spot. They do NOT make laptops like they used to 10 years ago. It’s cheap plastic, eco-friendly (non-lead solder, which is good for the environment, bad for electronics) and come out with new models every 4-6 weeks. That’s why it’s so hard for me to recommend ___________ when it comes to a laptop. When I do, a month goes by and it’s no longer available. Laptops, like Smartphones are designed to fail and be replaced often. Desktop computers still have the best chances of lasting long-term. When I recommend something, I have at least a 5-7 year timeframe in mind, leaning towards the 7 year mark. Iif you are going to use this laptop for photo editing, the #1 thing you need to pay attention to is what type of display panel is being used. If it’s a low-quality display, that doesn’t render colors & contrast consistently (and correctly) across the screen, I don’t care how fancy the CPU is, how much RAM is in it or how big the HD is...it’s the wrong laptop for you to purchase. Period. CS6 doesn’t require much and any laptop from $500 on up will be able to run it fine. It’s the display you need to be chasing...you want a IPS-based display and NOT a TN (Twisted Neumatic). IPS Display panels are tough to find. Even more-so today.

Keep an eye out next week! Dell is going to have lots of Black Friday Deals on the XPS Line. I’ve seen several advertisements over the last few days.

Yep. It’s just sucks that a new 70-200 lens costs as much as it does. At least you tried.

Since this is the older AF-S 80-200 f/2.8D, I wouldn't bother repairing it. It's too old to perform well on today's modern cameras. On a D700, it might be "OK." It will probably run you around $500 or so to get it fixed and you can buy a used one in great shape for $849. I still wouldn't put any money towards it. Save that money and get a new 70-200E lens. Yes, it's very expensive, but worth it. Always remember, Photography has NEVER been a cheap hobby. Sure the digital revolution helped A LOT and flooded the market with consumer-grade products, but the real glass and high-end bodies...they have always remained expensive.

Oh to answer your question, the current versions of Photoshop CC, are now taking advantage of the i7's architecture that makes it so fast. This wasn't always the case. In fact, for versions like Adobe Photoshop CS6, would only have about a 5%-7% performance boost with a i7 over an i5 CPU. People used to waste so much money and have a beefy system, that was great for video games, but Photoshop didn't see any real performance gains. Now things have changed and it's better to get a i7 now over a i5, though both should work fine. That said, if your camera has 24MP or more, it's way better to get a faster CPU chip as those Raw files can get quite large.

Yep. It is.