Damien Symonds

No, that's not it. If you're lower than 80 it means your room light is much too dim.

Gosh ... you calibrated to 65, and yet the screen is still brighter than the prints?

Are you still there, Mr Nikon?

I have emailed you.

Ok, so let's ignore the old screen then. Let's just concentrate on the new screen. Can you describe what is the problem, exactly? In what way does the calibrated screen differ from your prints?

Oh gee Cath, Brian warned you about this!

Posting guidelines

So your prints matched your screen with your old setup?

Hi Julius, How are you judging this, exactly? What calibrator did you use for your old screen? Is it an entirely new computer system, or have you only replaced the screen? Even 600:1 is too high in my opinion. 400:1 is better. Basically, the higher the contrast ratio, the further away from print matching you'll be. And I guess it goes without saying that print matching is the goal of calibration. On that subject, which pro lab are your prints from? And how many prints do you have? The purpose of calibration is to make your screen match your prints. It doesn't matter if you don't like the prints, your screen still has to match them. So if the blacks on screen are lighter than the blacks in print, you need to darken the blacks on screen. However, I urge you to take your light into consideration. Have you read this? I'm so sorry, I haven't used CN since version 4.

You'll need to include the flatting in your action, to be safe. Sorry, I can't answer that here. That information is part of the Sharpening Class.

Yep.

Definitely don't do it manually. Put it in Image Processor as usual.

Have you watched the video? If sharpening is required, you'll need to make a simple action to do the sharpening, then include it in Image Processor.

While jobs are live they should always be on your internal (and backed up onto an external). Never edit off an external.

I'm really worried about transfer directly from card to external drive. That seems risky to me.

Don't use the action if you don't need a watermark!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just use Image Processor. And yes, 3600x3600.

Please make sure you transfer them to your internal hard drive, not an external.

It won't open for me either. It's corrupted somehow. Do you still have them on the card? The file is only 14MB. That seems very small for a D700 raw file? What size are the ones that are working?

By the way, make sure you read this if you haven't already, and share it with any Mac users you know.

73 is a bit on the low side, but should be ok. Could you send me one of the raw files? https://spaces.hightail.com/uplink/BellePhotography

https://www.damiensymonds.net/thread1.html

To begin, try this: https://www.damiensymonds.net/2012/09/resetting-tools.html

Has anything changed in your workflow or setup? New card? New Photoshop update? New card reader? Anything you can think of? Does it still recognise the files from your last shoot?

That's something you'll have to decide for yourself. Everyone has their own approach to this.

Yep.