Damien Symonds

I'll need the 100% crop.

I don't understand the question. I just told you, it needs no clipping at the shadow end of the histogram.

Interesting. Ok, thanks.

Right at the very end, at the same time as sharpening (after flattening).

Are the other tools (eg the clone tool) doing the same thing? Or is it only the brush tool? Also, is it the same if you paint on a layer, rather than a mask?

Hmmm ... 2700 is a very big brush, of course. If you take it down in size, is it still the same? Has this additional problem cleared itself up since the restart?

What about before that? How long had it been? Got a screenshot for me?

Can you do this for me? http://www.damiensymonds.net/thread1.html

I've read that 400 is considered a good contrast ratio - roughly 0.25 black to 100 white. However, I've never thoroughly explored this myself. And you need to own a REALLY expensive screen (such as an Eizo) to be able to properly control black luminance. With your screen? Forget it.

That's ok, I don't need to see the cursor in the screenshot. I want to see everything else - the image, the layers, the toolbar, etc.

http://www.damiensymonds.net/2011/01/cursor-preferences.html

I'm so sorry, I have no idea what you mean by a hide/reveal brush. Maybe a screenshot would help me understand? Is it doing this on every photo you try, or only one?

You still have CS5 installed? And it still prints fine?

Generally, this has something to do with "Let Photoshop manage colors" vs "Let printer manage colors" in the print dialog. Which is yours set to; and do you know if it's the same as you had it in CS5?

This is not my area of expertise by any means, but I do know that icc profiles for printing are meant to fine-tune the results. They're not meant to fix "terrible". If your colours are terrible, there's something else at play. In what way are they terrible, exactly?

No, there must be some mistake. You're not following my instructions. My instructions don't talk about black luminance. Anyway, it's irrelevant. You're demanding precision that your screen just isn't capable of. Just live with the best possible result for now, and put "new screen" at the very top of your next purchase list.

Gee, it might be tricky. First, can you see if you can process the raw file with NO clipping at the shadow end of the histogram? Presently the blue channel is badly clipped in the flowers.

That's not ideal, but it will sharpen passably.

Yes, your prints are ALWAYS right. Yellow light isn't so much a direct risk to your editing, although that risk certainly exists to a degree. The problem is that if you troubleshoot your monitor calibration (warmer) to try to match your lighting, it will make you edit too cold without realising it.

Well, it seems to indicate that your indoor lighting is too yellow, yes? http://www.damiensymonds.net/2012/01/light-around-your-computer.html

Yep, that's fine.

A jpeg at 5MB should be fine - what are its pixel dimensions?

No problem, it's an easy fix. Just sample an area of good colour of the suit (the colour you think it's meant to be) then add a Solid Color adjustment layer of that colour. Set the layer's blend mode to "Color". Then mask it on to the suit. Afterwards, you can of course double-click the layer to tweak the colour a bit, to your satisfaction.

It might be chromatic aberration, rather than moire, I reckon. Have you tried the CA correction in the Lens Correction tab in ACR?

Your lab. Bloody Millers always print warm. But before we explore calibration options, can you promise me your room light isn't the problem? Your bulbs aren't too yellow?