Damien Symonds

Channel Mixer: R +103, 0, 0, 0 G +83, 0, 0, -5 B +72, 0, 0, -6

STOP USING STUPID FUCKING LIGHTROOM.

Because your files have turned into ProPhoto RGB somehow.

For this one, this Channel Mixer layer: R +100, 0, 0, 0 G +85, 0, 0, -5 B +80, 0, 0, -6

For this one, this Channel Mixer layer: Red +50, +50, 0, +10 Green +50, +50, 0, -7 Red +50, +50, 0, -9 Then clone out the white dots.

If that bothers you, you'll need to do the whole handyman method: https://www.damiensymonds.net/2015/04/the-handyman-method.html

Some of these are very mild. So let's see if we can get away with the easiest method of all. That is, add a Solid Color layer of good skin colour, and set its blend mode to "Color". Then invert the mask to hide it, then use a 10% white brush to paint it over the blue areas.

Yeah, you have to get that 8.92GB up to at least 58.92, I reckon.

Of course! How far through are you so far? Don't take too long. We need to get you into the Raw Class.

This page will guide you: https://www.damiensymonds.net/art_tscs2.html

When you say "photos done prior" .... how much editing had you done on them? Only raw work, or also some Photoshop work?

Perfect ❤️ Word of warning - that setting can change again without a word of warning, at any time. So every time you open a raw file, always remember to glance down there to check that it's still on sRGB.

To be thorough, could you do this for us? https://www.damiensymonds.net/thread1.html

Right. That seems to make sense.

Well, yes and no. It's certainly true that way too many people dive straight for these multiple-shot kind of solutions (including HDR) when plain old-fashioned good clean editing will do the job. However, even raw data isn't infallible. It gives you a big tonal range, but it can have blowouts.

Great. Now see at the bottom? Where it says Adobe RGB? That's where you need to click to change it to sRGB.

Sorry, I meant actually open it. Double-click it, so it opens in Camera Raw. That's the screenshot I need to see.

YES! That. No windows and a white light is perfect.

I hope you understand the seriousness of this issue? If your nighttime editing light is so vastly different from your daytime editing light, it's a damn serious problem. Are you sure you can't change the bulb in the ceiling light?

Talk to me more about this. What about if you open the blinds during the day, and view your prints in daylight?

Sorry, these photos you're posting for me are of no help at all. Are you saying that your room light is too yellow?

No, Lightroom would have been ok too. I just needed to make sure that you weren't viewing in a non-colour-managed program like Windows Viewer or something like that. Great. Then that is the one you edit on. Use the other one for emails and web browsing and such. This is very normal. It's almost completely impossible to make multiple screens match each other exactly, even if they're exactly the same make and model and age. So talk to me more about the smaller screen. Is it a good match, or is it still too bright?

Hang on, what program are you viewing the images in?

No, that's super! So, you've calibrated both of them? Do you get a better print match on one than the other?

Do you have both of these monitors?