Damien Symonds

https://www.damiensymonds.net/art_tscs000.html Yes of course. But not with any particular precision.

Ok, good. I URGE you not to try to change its colour. Just add a smooth layer of the colour that's already there, to save yourself the hassle of tedious masking. By the way, are you aware your photos are Adobe RGB? This is VERY bad.

Oh, I'm so relieved!

Ok, good! *crosses fingers*

I just dug out my Spyder X Elite and ran a calibration on one of my Dell screens. It definitely stopped to let me adjust the colours.

Sorry for all the "duh" questions, but did you definitely check all three boxes on this screen?

It seems unlikely ...

What is it that you don't like about the background? Is it the wrinkles?

Darn And you definitely turned on "Show RGB sliders" in preferences?

Darn, how weird! Ok, when you go through it again, can you show me a screenshot of your settings at this step?

You did forget? Or you did choose it? Anyway, yes, press "Next".

I've got a feeling that maybe you didn't choose "Expert Console" on this page? https://ask.damiensymonds.net/topic/32039-xelite-12/

Ok ... but does the page I linked answer your question, when you expand the "detailed instructions" section?

Thanks. Is this the page of instructions you're up to?

Hi @Marliese, thanks for posting. Could you take a photo of the menu on your screen, so I can see what options it gives you?

@SharonMHall PLEASE come back to the Raw Class! Your membership time is quickly running out.

No. If you want weaker colour, change the COLOUR. Opacity is important for gradients, but NOT for gradient maps.

I ... don't understand what you don't understand. The two little squares on top have to be solid black all the time. They are the opacity of the colours. The two (or more) little squares underneath are the actual colours that we see. They are in the same position as the histogram - shadows at the left end, highlights at the right end.

Because white is your foreground colour, of course.

Yeah, lots of people ask about this. Ultimately you'll have to decide for yourself how you approach it - the whole speed vs cost thing. I urge you to take the Bridge Class. It's SO important for this.

https://www.damiensymonds.net/exposure-triangle-hoax/

Oh, good. How far through are you?

Anyway, we're getting off track. I'm glad you've ordered WHCC prints. Once they arrive, you can calibrate your monitor again to ensure a perfect match. Then PLEASE dive into your Raw Class!

It does monitors as well.

This is the one that I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TCITRS/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=httpwwwdamien-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B007TCITRS&linkId=93d3a5a4945931a04bd18ff6ec7c8876 There are newer versions now, but it still does the job.