Damien Symonds

Go to Image>Image Size. When that window opens, make sure the "Resample image" box is checked, as well as the "Constrain Proportions" one. Then at the top of the window change the width to 2000 pixels (the height will change by itself). Then press OK. That's all there is to it.

Hi Kathy, for a low res proof you'll just flatten the layers, then shrink the image size, then save it as a jpeg.

A couple of weeks is enough, if you apply yourself intensely.

While we're waiting for Brian, I know he made some recommendations in this thread: https://ask.damiensymonds.net/topic/23973-best-recovery-software-2019/

Please @Tarria?

Great. I've emailed you.

I can't remember why I didn't, sorry.

Sorry, yes, that's right.

https://ask.damiensymonds.net/topic/31126-i1dp-mac-19/

Ok, great! Then follow the advanced troubleshooting part of my instructions to nudge slightly towards green.

But you're not observing pinkness anywhere else? In greys, for example? Or blues that are a tiny bit on the purple side?

Can you explain what you mean by "rosy"? Do you mean pinkness?

Ok!

That might mean that your lamp light is too warm, though.

Did you see this thread? That's the kind of photo where soft-proofing is important.

It's very common, yes. It would be significantly concerning if you saw a big chance. Out of the photos you've tried it on, do any of them have very vivid colours? Bright pink clothing or anything like that?

I've sent you an email.

See if you can get your lab's soft-proofing profile.

I'm not for a moment suggesting it's not edited. I'm just saying, you couldn't edit any old photo to look like this - it has to have the right lighting.

It's got to be the lighting, hasn't it? Looking at her eyes, would you say a large light above the photographer, and a reflector below?

Great. Ok, talk to me about that. is it all colours, or only some?

I reckon you'd just replace the whole background with a single colour, wouldn't you?

So generally for shadowing I add a Hue/Saturation layer and move the Lightness slider to about -60. Then invert the mask. Then paint on gently to add the shadow where needed.

It absolutely doesn't matter. They can be good, or crappy. Heck, they don't even need to be from your pro camera. They could be from your phone if you wanted! All that matters is that they're printed at a pro lab.

Right. But you'll also need to trace some vein detail too.