Damien Symonds

I can't stress this enough. You must have a completely edited master file in RGB.

If you had, you'd know that these things never look crisp up close. It's perfectly normal. I'm just trying to put your mind at ease about the quality aspects of this. And instead, I need to make you appropriately nervous about the issues that really matter. https://www.damiensymonds.net/2011/05/please-be-wary-of-cmyk.html No no! Not at all! You're doing perfectly.

I need to see the RGB master version, not the CMYK version.

Neither of us have time to debate this, nor to change what you've done. You've already stitched, so let's persist with it.

Have you seen one? For real, I mean?

These specs stink of BS. This job of yours will be printed at about 50ppi, so for them to say they need 150ppi is complete nonsense. Plus there's no information about the CMYK profile you need to use. Have you worked with these people before? Do you have any proof that they're actually competent? And they're sticking to this rubbish about "50% at 200ppi"?

Have you talked to a FabriArt representative about this job?

By the way, @Jamie Brown, NEVER do edits in CMYK. CMYK is an output space only, you must do all your editing in RGB exactly as normal. In fact, make your entire editing process completely normal. Don't crop, don't resize. Just do everything the same as you usually do, as if it was any other photo.

I need to know more about these specs. Did they send you a PDF of information? Or an email?

Let's assume nothing of the sort. Let's get one thing clear right away - the camera you have captures easily enough pixels for this job. Absolutely no multiple-image-stitching required. Of course, you might have another reason to shoot and stitch, if your lens can't allow you to capture a wide enough scene in one frame. That's cool. But megapixels are NOT a reason to stitch.

What did you ever decide to do with this, @Shannikk?

Hey @Shannikk, have you read the Bridge Class yet? Have you been putting it into practice?

Wonderful. Next is the Raw Class, and then Levels after that.

You just gave the answer. So all detail can be seen, and therefore manipulated in Photoshop.

It's very difficult, but you will learn it as you go along. How far through the Layers & Masks Class are you?

Ok, so you mean as if the photo wasn't taken under multi-coloured stage lighting. In that case, the answer to your question is "yes". But I'm not sure why you'd want to?

Done.

Can you elaborate on what you mean by "crisp"?

In the bonus module, yes.

Of course, that's what you'll have to do. It's quite a lot of space top and bottom, isn't it?

Well, if that's the case, the next step is to crop it to the 11:15 shape. (You won't like it!) Then resize it to the standard width of your camera as you have calculated from the bonus module of the class. Then yes, sharpen it per the bonus module. But make sure you follow the sharpening steps in the main part of the class.

Looks perfect! If it's been a while, for heaven's sake make sure you re-read the part of the Sharpening Class about sharpening collages, before outputting this.

Sure! There's no precise science to this. We just need to make it somewhat "normal size" so we can check its quality. Once you've done that, can you take a few 100% crops from various parts of it to show me?

Just with the Image Size dialog. Make sure the "Resample Image" box is checked.

Thanks. Since you've made everything with vectors and smart objects, you can easily resize. Maybe make it 4000px wide, and check that it looks ok?