Damien Symonds

Still CS6?

Now let's deal with this nonsense. Show me the evidence.

Remind me your situation? What was your old operating system, and what is your new one?

The camera colour space only applies if you shoot jpeg. I trust your standards haven't slipped so far that you're shooting jpeg?

You've nobody to blame but yourself. You could have had a new PC with just as much power, and a better screen, for far less money.

Yeah, back when the Spyder4 was current. I fear you need a new calibrator, sorry. However, have you tried the options under "Part 9 - Troubleshooting" about 2/3rds down this page? It's for the Spyder 5, not the 4, but is fairly relevant.

How old was your last iMac?

Never make a copy. Always choose "Make this a proof".

How did you go, @Cathy Stark?

Can you at least check your calibration?

What type of files are they? That you're attempting to save together as a PDF?

You know I can't talk about raw processing here. Go back to your class notes.

No, it's definitely NOT ok.

Ok, your file has no layers, so you DEFINITELY didn't need to save it as a tiff file. PLUS it is 16-bit, which is entirely unnecessary, and it's made the file twice as big as it needs to be.

Jpeg. I don't think the site accepts PSD, and anyway, you'd never post anything other than jpeg on a website.

Oh, yeah, I'm all for practice! Let's do this! I'm keen. So, go ahead and do your raw processing on whichever photo you'd like to use, then post it for me and we'll play with the background.

Oh, you've raised a few more good topics here. Yes, TIFF files sure can be big, but it's very possible that yours were bigger than they needed to be. Do you happen to still have one of those TIFF files, easily accessible? If so, could you send it to me? I'd be interested to take a look. Well, there's a good argument for NOT keeping tiff files for archiving. Once you've finished the job, and are about to put it onto an external (or cloud, or whatever), it's quite logical to convert the tiffs to jpegs for that purpose. I talk about this in some detail in the Bridge Class. Tiff files, or PSD files, are so important while a job is live. But if space is an issue, you certainly can consider converting to jpeg for archiving. Having said that, thankfully disk space is becoming much cheaper with each passing year, so it's not as big a deal as it used to be.

Just to check, you've read this? https://www.damiensymonds.net/2015/07/blue-or-green-screen-for-background.html

https://www.damiensymonds.net/art_tscs2.html

The other thread you linked was very specific, because that poster actually needed the subjects extracted. But that's very rare. Most people only need to change the background colour, or swap another background in. So, tell me about your circumstances. What's your end goal with these photos?

@FlawlessFacesAndPhotos?

This is relevant too: https://www.damiensymonds.net/2015/07/blue-or-green-screen-for-background.html

It looks fantastic, well done.

So, if you're going to be doing this a lot, you need to make sure you get the background as bright as possible in camera. It doesn't have to be pure white, but the closer the better.

Actually, I think it looks ok: Download the PSD It uses this method: https://www.damiensymonds.net/sky-replacement-method.html Notes: You'll see I added an extra white "Solid Color" layer, because while the Levels layer does a good job at the tree line, it left some darker areas of sky at the top Notice that I blurred the sky. This is SO important. One of the most common novice mistakes is putting an in-focus sky behind an out-of-focus horizon. Also notice that I lowered the opacity of the sky layer. It looked too implausible if left darker.