Damien Symonds

I am completely flabbergasted that you're even considering this. Blurred vignetting is every bit as bad as selective coloring. No self-respecting photographer should be considering it. The notion that an award-winning baby photographer would even use this method once is astonishing. The notion that you would be considering using it so much that you need an action for it is sickening.

If you made it, or it was a legitimately free one, then yes. If a paid one, no.

Sorry, I've never found a way. You would have to make it as two separate actions ... eg F3 duplicates the layer then chooses the Marquee Tool for you. Then you do your selection. Then you hit F4 to run the second action to do the feathering and blurring.

Yeah, I reckon 100W, in that 4000-5000 range.

Again, this statement points to the bigger problem. You definitely need a brighter room for your editing. So maybe you need to see if there are 100W bulbs available for your fittings?

Hang on, you should turn them off for calibrating. Then turn them back on for print comparison, and your usual editing work. Is that what you meant?

Yes, I think it's important to know what they are, so you don't make the mistake of just getting the same again, you know?

Yes, that was going to be my next suggestion. Could you post a couple of your photos here in the thread?

No, that's exactly right. That's how Image Processor works. It always saves copies. This is functionality that I find REALLY useful when saving output jpegs (as you know from this video). But I agree it's a bit clumsy if saving initially-edited PSDs. You want to know the absolute easiest way? Just hit Ctrl Alt W (or go to File>Close All). This will immediately bring up a message that says "File has not been saved, do you want to save it now?" Make sure you check the "Apply to all" box before hitting "Yes", and then it will go through and quickly save them.

No, these are very good questions. If you have 12 light fittings in your room, the bulbs must already be VERY weak, yes? Have you taken out one of the bulbs to see what strength it is?

Great.

3.4 Dmax is nowhere near the awesome 4.0 of the newer models, but the V600 would do a good job in most circumstances, that's for sure. Just make sure you've satisfied yourself that it will run on your version of Windows.

https://www.damiensymonds.net/2012/01/light-around-your-computer.html

What did you decide to do with this one in the end?

@Patricia?

It's not easy, I know. How did you go?

Hi Miriam, This is an excellent device. A must-have for every photographer. Yes, that's right. That's one of the functions a calibrator provides. This is likely to be a different issue. I need you to go to this link for me, and follow it all the way to its conclusion.

Hi Perli, 59cd/m2 sure is low. Are you sure the light in your room is bright enough?

Well, they literally don't represent the channel clipping. Don't worry about it for now. Get stuck into the Raw Class, where you'll see how they're supposed to work.

Did you fix your abominable brickwork? Because you canNOT let that fly.

Hi Jenny, any upgrade from the ol' S3E will make you happy Basically, it comes down to what I said in this article - how closely (or not) does your screen match your prints in its uncalibrated state?

I guess I should have asked, first, to see a screenshot of your layers panel. If the above doesn't seem to work for you, post the screenshot for me.

These layers will go under your pixel layers, immediately above the Background layer. First, a Channel Mixer layer, with "Monochrome" checked, at 0, 0, +100, 0. This will make the whole carpet and bricks and dress grey. You can include bricks and dress in your selection. Then, clip a Levels layer to the Channel Mixer layer: R 0, 1.00, 255 and 185, 230 G 0, 1.00, 255 and 55/245

May I see the original photos for context?