Damien Symonds

Remind me what the problem is?

Just by eye I think.

Are you STILL having problems, @Michelle Pena?

Maybe $25 each? Thereabouts.

Yes, but it would be hideously expensive. Are they all as bad as this?

Don't worry, once you join the Raw Class and learn how to edit, you'll love it.

Have you explored these?

Unfortunately it's white glare, so that rules out any cleverness using Channel Mixer or Levels or anything else. So it's going to have to be hard cloning work. You'll begin by repairing the camera-right eye, because it's the least damaged. Most of it will be cloning, but you'll also copy and flip the little bit of clear tear duct area from the other eye. Take your time with this, it's difficult work. Then, when that eye is completely repaired, you can copy (but not flip) it across to the camera-left side to repair the damage there.

I said you shouldn't have to go lower than that, but it seems likely that your room light is bad, so you'd better go lower.

Well, calibrate with lower brightness, I guess.

Always sRGB. https://www.damiensymonds.net/2014/06/the-wide-gamut-myth.html 8-bit is fine in almost all cases. There are really only two exceptions: Photos with very smooth areas (eg seamless backdrops or broad blue cloudless skies) that present a banding risk in 8-bit; Photos that need more than the usual amount of Photoshop editing (eg severely hazy backlit photos).

Here's my alternate method: Download PSD

Google and YouTube will find you lots of tutorials, and there are lots of free actions for it too.

If it doesn't work, maybe something like this?

Have you tried frequency separation yet? It might be good for this.

I wouldn't have thought so ... but maybe you do.

No, they literally do mean RGB. https://www.damiensymonds.net/2010/11/colour-modes-vs-colour-spaces.html Stick to sRGB.

@Karlie Kingi is your calibration ok now?

It's dark, but all the detail is visible, just. If you can see visible detail on your screen, but not your print, then it's a printing problem.

I don't know anything about Nations, but I do know you must never use Bay. https://www.facebook.com/groups/askdamien/posts/4143619009031601/

New lab time.

Right, but it's enough to check, isn't it?

No, not browse in Bridge. Just open.

But if you're actually IN Photoshop 2021, and open a raw file from there?

What about if you go to Bridge and go to Preferences, and look at the File Type Associations section? Can you force it to use the older PS?