Damien Symonds

We are of the same mind. I thought I did ok with the lining up, though. Download PSD I made sure my liquifying hardly affected the neckline at all.

Yes, liquify might be tricky. But still, do you mind if I try? We should rule it out definitively before attempting the more complex option. So may I see a crop of the full width of her body?

Are you thinking you'd like to move the dress across, kinda here?

Have you calibrated the new screen yet?

What about it?

Yay, this is great! Use these calibration instructions: http://www.damiensymonds.net/cal_i1DP_pc1.html

No they're DEFINITELY not. Don't lock yourself in to paying monthly forever more.

Yes, that statement would seem to suggest that would be a good idea.

Well, it would be safest not to assume anything. It's possible they are saving as PNG, and if that's the case, then yes, 24-bit is essential. The other option is 8-bit, which will be very poor quality. What software do they have?

Yes, definitely. Yes, perfect. All photos are 24-bit (well, most, anyway). What file format are they saving as?

Yeah, this kind of thing has been discussed occasionally. https://www.facebook.com/groups/195567190503489/permalink/940282226031978/

You know I can't discuss that here. Email me for the link to re-join the Skin Class.

Alas, no, you can't use this one

Bummer. It'll sharpen up passably, so use it if you have to. But yeah, it's not perfect.

No, only the article/video that I already linked.

At what point in the workflow do you mean?

Then you have to live with it, sorry. Just like the rest of us do.

Hi Gera, have you read this? https://www.damiensymonds.net/art_facebook.html Are you uploading to a biz page?

How did you go?

Your screen DOESN'T look funny. If it's similar to your print, it's correct.

Oh. So it's no longer close to your prints?

No, don't compare to other screens. ONLY to prints. A properly calibrated screen will always look different from most screens in the world, because most screens in the world are dreadful.

Calibrating should be done in dim light for best results, but it doesn't have to be pitch black. But of course the editing, and comparison to prints, must be done in good bright light. This is all explained in my calibration instructions, so you've read it all already. Hmmm ... can you explain this a bit further?

I'm really sorry, I know I'm giving you a series of answers you don't want to hear, but this is the honest truth. You need a lab which provides a soft-proofing profile.