Damien Symonds

Download the PSD Even with the most careful masking of the Levels layer, there will still be a bit of a line between the grass sections. That's why the clone/heal layer is necessary. Please don't wait any longer for the Channel Mixer class.

Maybe your Levels 2 layer wasn't aggressive enough? After you'd used the white dropper on that layer, did you move your mouse all over the paper to make sure everything was reading 255/255/255?

That's right, yes.

Um ... for people who are reading this, Holly hasn't given you the back story. She would like the blue tarp disguised in the background, and the two tones of grass changed to one tone. This is her SOOR, she hasn't commenced her Levels editing yet.

Hi Lloyd, this raises an important question - how regularly do you restart your computer?

Do they have to be separate photos? Will it be possible to print one big photo with the photos positioned correctly, and just put it in there?

When you open them in ACR, are they also rotated?

How did it go?

And if Emma had been scanning these pictures herself, I would have given her the same advice.

Then no. Scan them in sRGB as usual, and make sure there is no clipping at either end when scanning.

https://ask.damiensymonds.net/topic/6534-skin-class-details/

Please don't wait too long to take the channel mixer class. You'll love it. It's great for all sorts of things. https://www.facebook.com/groups/195567190503489/permalink/1564192333640961/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/195567190503489/permalink/1534913789902149/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/195567190503489/permalink/1525505314176330/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/195567190503489/permalink/1501977239862471/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/195567190503489/permalink/1451481291578733/

A Channel Mixer layer: Red 0, +117, 0, +5 Green 0, +100, 0, 0 Blue 0, +102, 0, +3 Then mask onto the shirt.

Sorry, no, I didn't mean the print file. I meant may I have the 100% crop from your PSD master file - the one you've edited, but not resized or sharpened for print.

Hi Michelle, I see no reason to work on the unedited photo. We should be able to just add the moire fix over the top of your editing, which should make things easier for you So may I see the 100% crop from your edited master file? Also, may I see the full photo for context?

Hi Sherri, it's really important to only judge softness/sharpness at 100% view. Zoom in to 100% in whichever programs you're viewing in, and you'll see they're the same.

Is he scanning them himself, or getting them scanned?

Hell, you weren't opening files in ACR to cull them, were you?????????????

Looks great. Can you post this in Levels briefly? There's something I want to ask you.

I trust this is sufficient? First, add a Dodge & Burn layer. Don't do anything with it yet. Above that, add a Channel Mixer layer: Red +100, 0, 0, 0 Green +75, 0, 0, +8 Blue +65, 0, 0, +6 Mask it carefully to the sclera. It'll take care of most of the red, but will leave some slight dark rings. So to deal with those, use the D&B layer. Work with a 5% brush. I hope you'll take the Channel Mixer class before too long. It's so handy for so many purposes.

I tried typing it out, but it was too complicated. So I made a video for you: https://youtu.be/cLfLJXeg1Ss

Glad you like it. It takes a while to explain, and unfortunately I have to go out now for a bit, but I'll post as soon as I get back.

If you are desperate, and you do decide to use it, make sure you don't print it very big, and when you do, crop it as little as possible.

Only keep it if you're absolutely desperate. It sure isn't very good.

Yep. I don't think so, but there are two ways I'd check. First, I'd look at each channel. Second, I'd add a Levels layer and slowly drag the white slider in aggressively. Between those two methods, you should be able to spot any hard edges. Well, I guess try Content Aware Fill first. If that fails, then it's just careful cloning, sorry.