Damien Symonds

Excellent. Now go to the Canvas Size dialog, and increase the dimensions to 8 inches by 10 inches. That'll be the most logical print size, won't it?

I belatedly realised that you had the ball coming from the wrong place. He wouldn't tee off between his feet. This is still pretty cheesy, but does some spin blur help?

Excellent. So make a new blank document at those dimensions - 18.9x24.6cm at 300ppi. Then File>Place the PSD of your scan into it. Then resize it so that (as accurately as possible) the edges that you measured (head, leg, ear, ear) touch the sides of the document. Make sure you maintain proportions as you resize, don't let it distort. https://www.damiensymonds.net/2013/02/resizing-photos-in-templates-ps-pse.html Let me know when you've done that.

Well, I found a few, and the ball is just blurry. Which would be realistic, I guess. Can you post the ball file separately, so I can have a play?

Yeah, maybe you're right. I don't know, to be honest.

Oh darn, I'm SO sorry, I didn't even think to check. It's ok, there's an Elements method as well. But for this, I'll also need you to take a horizontal measurement as well. I suggest maybe ear to ear?

Make sure you run CleanMyMac once a month. However, everything there looks good. Have you noticed Bridge doing this funny business with older sets of photos too, or only the one set?

Hi Heather, have you googled "ball flying towards camera" or something like that, to find some inspiration about how it should look?

Ok, that's good news at least. Can you do this for me?

Good, we'll use the PSD of course. So here's what to do: First, select both the layers of the PSD (the two scanned sections) and go to Layer>Smart Object>Convert to Smart Object. This will combine the two layers into one smart layer. Then choose your Crop Tool. Enter the two values you gave me - 24.6cm for the height, and 300 for the resolution. Leave the Width blank: Then draw a tall thin crop marquee, that goes EXACTLY where you took the measurement before - that is, from the top of the top head to the bottom of the bottom leg. Crop it: Then go to Image>Reveal All. The whole of the image will be back again, and now the measurement will be exactly correct. Let me know when you've done that.

Excellent. One more question, do you still have the two scanned parts of the image as two separate layers? Or have you flattened them together? (It doesn't matter either way, I just need to know).

Great. What is your print resolution for your lab? 300ppi?

Told ya Well done. If you want to discuss your Levels work, please post in the class.

Excellent. Next comes the important step of making it exactly the right size. I need you to get a ruler or tape measure, and measure the exact distance here to here (top of top head to bottom of bottom leg):

You must watch this video again. Your culling process is so vital. If you're careless with it, and unworthy photos make it through to your editing process, it's a huge waste of time.

You're doing it perfectly, I promise. You need to be more patient. Keep painting the mask with that 20% brush, and the sprinkles will come.

Jpeg is fine. It doesn't even need to be particularly high quality.

Scan it in two pieces, then? And put them together? It's easy enough to do. If you can get this right, the rest will be SO easy.

Oh heck yes!!!!!!! There's a paper included in the frame? Does it have sample photos printed on it?

First of all, I'd say you'll need to repair the camera-left eye. This will be a whole tricky combination of: Handyman method for the wire mesh pattern on the outside Copying (but not flipping) the pupil and catchlight from the other eye Copying and flipping the lashes (or maybe just cloning) and also the inside area near the nose Cloning the skin under the eye THEN, once that eye is completely repaired, copy and flip the whole thing and try to use it to replace the big glare area on the camera-right side. It's extra tricky because the glasses aren't sitting evenly on his eyes, of course. So there will be plenty of cloning involved too. In short, it's a time-consuming nightmare. After doing the repair on the camera-right side, if you feel it's a bit dodgy (and heck, it probably will be) don't be afraid to lower the opacity of your work to allow some of the original glare to remain. It's natural, after all.

Download the PSD Even with the most careful masking of the Levels layer, there will still be a bit of a line between the grass sections. That's why the clone/heal layer is necessary. Please don't wait any longer for the Channel Mixer class.

Maybe your Levels 2 layer wasn't aggressive enough? After you'd used the white dropper on that layer, did you move your mouse all over the paper to make sure everything was reading 255/255/255?

That's right, yes.

Um ... for people who are reading this, Holly hasn't given you the back story. She would like the blue tarp disguised in the background, and the two tones of grass changed to one tone. This is her SOOR, she hasn't commenced her Levels editing yet.

Hi Lloyd, this raises an important question - how regularly do you restart your computer?