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Damien Symonds

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Everything posted by Damien Symonds

  1. How did you go? Can you send it to me again once you've fixed it?
  2. No. The text has C, M and Y in it. It's gotta be ONLY K.
  3. Great! So, make sure you have the PSD safely saved. Then follow these last steps: Select each text layer in turn, and go to Layer>Type>Convert to shape. This will do exactly as it says - convert from editable text to plain vector shape layers. This is to abide by their instructions to make sure all text is outlined. Turn off any guide layers or other guff that came with the template. Save as a PDF file. Close it. Send me the PDF file so I can check it for you.
  4. Yes, if your screen still matches previous prints, it's all on them.
  5. I can't tell from here. You'll need to open the photo into Photoshop, and check with a Levels layer.
  6. Yep, this looks all as it should. Ie completely fucked up. https://www.damiensymonds.net/bridge-30-day-challenge
  7. No, just with soft-proofing on and off for now.
  8. Ok, could you show us two screenshots (off and on)?
  9. Have you left enough space to hand-write the date on the "expires" line?
  10. This method involves liquifying the lids up and down respectively to meet each other. First, duplicate the Background layer: Then go into Liquify and push the bottom lid up about halfway. Of course this will push the top lid etc up as well, but that doesn't matter. Make sure you use a fairly big liquify brush - at least as big as the whole eyeball: Once you press OK to return to Photoshop, add a mask to the layer and carefully mask it to just the lower lid and the eye bag area below it: Then return to the Background layer and duplicate it again, and drag it to the top: Liquify again, and push the top lid down a bit. Yes, it will move the whole eye as well, but that doesn't matter. Remember, use a fairly big brush: Return to the layer, and mask it: End result: That process was quite quick to describe, and in fact it was fairly quick for me to do, since I've had a bit of experience at it. But allow enough time, and be prepared to have your patience tested. You might need to start over a few times, until you get the liquifying just right.
  11. The leading (line spacing) is still too small, I think.
  12. Show me how you go. Once the text is nice, we'll talk about the final step towards that PDF.
  13. I think, with a bit of Liquify to tuck it in, followed by some D&B, it could be reduced to an acceptable degree. It would probably be necessary to slightly blur away the veil detail, though, because it would be stretched outta shape during the liquifying. And yes, I laughed at your joke
  14. Yes, it's quite safe to play with opacity. Gosh no, don't use multiple layers, that will drive you nuts! Just make better use of Leading. This setting: And the paragraph spacing:
  15. Oh yep, ok. Just make sure it's a plain white gradient, NO blend modes. Yes, the black text will look less than black on your screen. Don't worry about it, it's just that it's hard to represent ink colours on a screen. However, if you wanted to add 10% cyan to the black text, that wouldn't do any harm. Now, may I suggest looking closely at the text itself. The punctuation is clumsy, and the spacing isn't very nice in my opinion.
  16. Just see the pinned "Posting Guidelines" post in the class posting area.
  17. "GIFT VOUCHER" is quite a bit darker now - is that ok? You had it very grey in your first design.
  18. Ha ha! Yes, you're not the first person who has said that. One does become rather uppity about photos, doesn't one?
  19. ... but its opacity is lowered, yes? You need to create a replacement layer, at 100% opacity, to match it. And it must be made up ONLY of cyan and black, if at all possible. Maybe, if necessary, a tiny bit of magenta OR yellow, but NOT both. Text must be 100% black only. This is madness. The same as point one, you need to replace this with plain text at 100% opacity (none of this colour overlay nonsense) made up of ONLY black (presumably about 50%). No cyan, magenta or yellow.
  20. Fantastic! Then most of the battle is already won. Ok, so I need some more info: What colour is the light blue "Color Fill 2" layer? I mean, what are its C M Y and K values? Likewise, what colour is the black text? What are its C M Y and K values? And what colour is the grey text at the bottom?
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