Damien Symonds

It goes without saying that you must never commence any Photoshop work until your raw processing is completely finished.

Oh gosh, this is tricky. May I see a closer crop of it?

Sure, I can do that. May I use your photo?

Look, it probably won't make any difference, but since you're in desperate straits, you'd better try it.

Ok, we could get extremely technical about this, but let's try the easy way first. Add a Channel Mixer adjustment layer, click "Monochrome", and enter 0/+100/0. Then begin carefully masking to every ball. Then, you can roughly draw a marquee selection around a ball, add a Solid Color layer of a colour you desire, and change its blend mode to "Multiply", then Cmd Opt G to clip it to the Channel Mixer layer. If there are any other balls you want of that colour, roughly paint on the mask over those balls too. Then make a new layer for the next colour, and so on.

Wait, what? The Do Not Adjust one should have been the very first one you used, wasn't it?

Great. Have you tried varying this setting with each calibration? http://www.damiensymonds.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/38.-s5p34.gif

Come on Valentina, help me out here What colour would you like the balls to be? May I see it up close?

Yep, jpegs for sure.

When people talk of "magenta vs yellow" it makes me suspect they're myopically looking at skintones only. Can you promise me you're looking at ENTIRE photos when you're telling me that the print is yellow?

No, come on, these are crazy noisy.

Oh boy. This is going to be a challenge. Go ahead and do your raw processing first, then post it again for me.

Which Spyder4 is it?

Either way would be fine.

Oh gee, the whiskers will make it more complicated, but we'll see what we can do. Go ahead and do your raw processing as usual, then post this 100% crop again for me.

What single colour would you like them to be?

And what will the photos be used for, exactly?

Gee, this is a fat lot of BS. They don't need PDF files. Just send jpegs.

No, you've done exactly the right thing. Your edited master files must be in sRGB, as usual. Converting to CMYK is simply part of the output process, just before saving as jpeg.

No, that's all. You just need to ask exactly what CMYK profile to use. It's just photos? Nothing else?

http://www.damiensymonds.net/scanning-guidelines-for-old-photo-restoration.html

How many images did you try? Sometimes these kinds of problems are specific to only one file, and sometimes they're widespread. By the way, you must NEVER use the Eraser tool. Ever.

I think the Handyman Method should do ok.

This is an excellent question. I would assume that they mean you should allow 3mm extra on each side, for a total of 6 extra millimetres. So your entire file would be 303x426mm. This is extremely unlikely, but to be safe, you should make sure that nothing you don't wish to lose is closer than 6mm to the edge. They haven't given you enough information yet. Have you read this? What software are you using to design this file? If Photoshop, please also read this.

Good job!