Damien Symonds

https://www.damiensymonds.net/thread1.html

Light at the bottom will look weird. The light part of the gradient should follow the natural flow of the light in the photo. How does this look? (I haven't done the bottom part yet, but it's easy of course):

Yes, I'd say it would be the safest idea.

No, there should be no need to redo prints.

Just check as is for now.

Can you make a new blank document, and show me how you'd like the blue to look?

https://www.facebook.com/groups/195567190503489/permalink/969328583127342/ With the HSL tab, I assume.

Right. So ... how close are they?

Only a tiny minority of very vivid colours. 99% of the colours in 99% of your photos should print exactly as they look on your screen, no lab profile required. This is SO important.

It might matter, yes. Again, it comes back to this - you'll need to calibrate both, and see which one is better. That's the one you'll edit on.

It's VERY important to understand that the screens are very unlikely to match each other exactly. After calibrating both, you'll check them and see which one matches your pro lab prints most accurately. That's the one you'll use for editing on - the other one will be for panels, email, etc. It's also critical to remember that the screens have to be set to "Extend", never "Duplicate". I'm sure you already know this, but I wouldn't be doing my job properly if I failed to mention it.

Great! Then yes. It is very simple - it calibrates whatever screen you have the software window open on. So calibrate one screen, then drag the window to the other screen, and calibrate it. Calibration instructions here: https://www.damiensymonds.net/calibration.html

Yep. Sharpening next. Well no, Skin next. Then Sharpening.

Attached to the same computer, do you mean? Or attached to different computers? Which calibrator do you have, and what screens are they?

No, those two things you can do in raw. https://www.damiensymonds.net/2012/03/jpegs-in-acr-elements.html

I'm not Brian, but I'm pretty sure his answer will be yes.

No no no no no. Definitely not. The printer's profile doesn't come into this.

Well, how's your print comparison? Ultimately that's what matters.

Oh darn, this is really annoying, isn't it? You'll probably have to do this, I'm afraid: https://www.damiensymonds.net/2013/10/how-to-properly-re-install-spyder.html

Please try for me anyway. It would be nice to know.

Oh crap. In the middle of the day, with the lights turned off and the window open, how is your print comparison?

Great. So flatten your layers, then choose your Crop Tool, and choose the "W x H x Resolution" setting in the Options Bar. Enter "960px" (make sure you include the "px" or it will default to inches or something) in the Width field if it's a landscape photo, or the Height field if it's a portrait photo. Leave the other two fields blank. For example, this is my crop tool ready to crop a portrait (tall) photo: Then crop.

Bridge is free. Download it immediately.

There are three standard Facebook sizes. One is 720, as you mentioned, but it's very small and is rarely used these days. The next is 960. It's also smallish, but good and fast to load. The third is 2048. This will be sure to fill everyone's screen. But of course is the slowest to upload, and load for view. Still, it's the most common one that people use nowadays, I think. Which do you reckon you'll choose?

Yeah, that one will work! Now go ahead and edit your photo fully and properly. Pay close attention to the white balance during your raw processing, and once you get to the Photoshop stage of your editing, you'll need to completely remove that unfortunate red cast that's coming from lower camera left.