Damien Symonds

No, that's exactly right. That's how Image Processor works. It always saves copies. This is functionality that I find REALLY useful when saving output jpegs (as you know from this video). But I agree it's a bit clumsy if saving initially-edited PSDs. You want to know the absolute easiest way? Just hit Ctrl Alt W (or go to File>Close All). This will immediately bring up a message that says "File has not been saved, do you want to save it now?" Make sure you check the "Apply to all" box before hitting "Yes", and then it will go through and quickly save them.

No, these are very good questions. If you have 12 light fittings in your room, the bulbs must already be VERY weak, yes? Have you taken out one of the bulbs to see what strength it is?

Great.

3.4 Dmax is nowhere near the awesome 4.0 of the newer models, but the V600 would do a good job in most circumstances, that's for sure. Just make sure you've satisfied yourself that it will run on your version of Windows.

https://www.damiensymonds.net/2012/01/light-around-your-computer.html

What did you decide to do with this one in the end?

@Patricia?

It's not easy, I know. How did you go?

Hi Miriam, This is an excellent device. A must-have for every photographer. Yes, that's right. That's one of the functions a calibrator provides. This is likely to be a different issue. I need you to go to this link for me, and follow it all the way to its conclusion.

Hi Perli, 59cd/m2 sure is low. Are you sure the light in your room is bright enough?

Well, they literally don't represent the channel clipping. Don't worry about it for now. Get stuck into the Raw Class, where you'll see how they're supposed to work.

Did you fix your abominable brickwork? Because you canNOT let that fly.

Hi Jenny, any upgrade from the ol' S3E will make you happy Basically, it comes down to what I said in this article - how closely (or not) does your screen match your prints in its uncalibrated state?

I guess I should have asked, first, to see a screenshot of your layers panel. If the above doesn't seem to work for you, post the screenshot for me.

These layers will go under your pixel layers, immediately above the Background layer. First, a Channel Mixer layer, with "Monochrome" checked, at 0, 0, +100, 0. This will make the whole carpet and bricks and dress grey. You can include bricks and dress in your selection. Then, clip a Levels layer to the Channel Mixer layer: R 0, 1.00, 255 and 185, 230 G 0, 1.00, 255 and 55/245

May I see the original photos for context?

You're welcome. PLEASE try Bridge for 30 days.

Somewhere like this: C:\Windows\System32\spool\drivers\color

https://www.damiensymonds.net/examining-the-complexities-of-an-acr-workflow.html

Bridge has all the same batching power, trust me. It rocks. Maybe, but maybe not. https://www.damiensymonds.net/art_tscs2.html

This is what happens when you complicate your workflow with stupid Lightroom. PLEASE give me 30 days to change your life: https://www.damiensymonds.net/bridge-30-day-challenge

Yes, see? It's ProPhoto RGB. Open it in Photoshop and you'll see.

Ok, that's good news! Can you post a couple of the photos here? One that printed well, and one that didn't?

Hi Elizabeth, ROES isn't colour-managed, so some difference will always be evident. However, if it's more difference than you're used to, that's certainly worth investigating. First things first, can you do this for me? https://www.damiensymonds.net/art_tscs000.html