Damien Symonds

Now I'm confused. Are you, or are you not, getting reprints?

Hang on, aren't you getting reprints?

You don't set up Photoshop to be less saturated. We have to get it representing the prints exactly, so that you don't EDIT them too saturated.

Oh gosh! Yeah, if they've been inadvertently "colour corrected" that renders them useless for calibration checking.

Never mess with that window. Up the top where it says "Custom", change it back to "North America General Purpose 2". Then press OK to close that window, and never open it again. This is very bad advice, but sadly, lots of labs give it. It's easier for them to do it, than to actually educate their clients about colour management.

No, I mean, is 6500 what you chose when calibrating? No. https://www.damiensymonds.net/2014/07/proof-setup-working-cmyk-not-really.html

That's at 6500K?

No more prints. Just concentrate on matching the prints you have.

Well, this is all the control you have: https://www.damiensymonds.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/14.-s5p08.gif

Which Spyder is it?

Great! Now you have the prints, you can calibrate again to match them.

Sorry, I didn't mean to suggest there would be anything wrong with your screen. It's a great screen, it'll serve you well for many years to come. Both are great. See which you can find at the best price.

This is the Photoshop solution, of course, but you should be able to adapt it to a raw preset fairly easily if desired. Download PSD

I'd hoped for a bit more masked off the subjects, particularly their skin, to be honest.

Oh gee, it's LED. I was afraid of that. X-Rite discontinued the manufacture of the i1Display2 a few years ago, because it doesn't work well with LED screens

The minilab prints are fine. Preferable, even. Avoid gloss paper, go for lustre. How new/old is your monitor?

Do you like it?

Good. Now add this Levels layer: Red 85/1.50/255 Green 0/0.45/255 and 30/255 Blue 0/0.55/255 Then with a 10% brush, mask gently off the subjects to your taste.

Very very carefully.

A lot more than that. To match the links you provided, I mean.

Is this anywhere close?

Before attempting any colour work, it goes without saying that you need to do the blur. https://www.damiensymonds.net/2010/06/blurring-background-false-dof.html

Yay! PLEASE don't wait any longer to step up to the Raw and Levels Classes. They'll rock your world.

If it's only Bridge, maybe the solution is to turn on the thing about "monitor size previews" in Bridge's preferences.

So with that knowledge, I need you to examine the problem a bit further. In what program/s did the files look blurry to you? Only Bridge?