Damien Symonds

What about just cooling the water a bit?

Hi Erica, did you shoot it in raw?

If you need a setup that allows you to change to a large number of different colours, we'd do it differently. The Channel Mixer layer would simply have the "Monochrome" box checked, and +100, 0, 0, 0 as the values. Then you'd add a Solid Color layer on "Multiply" blend mode. That's the layer whose colour you could change to anything you want. Start with blue, and fiddle with it later. The trouble with this method is that the masking needs to be much more precise. The mask can still go into the hair a little bit, but nowhere near as easily.

https://www.damiensymonds.net/channel-mixer-class

There's no "cast" as such, in this photo. It's just strange light, is all. Can you post a link to a photo showing me how you wish the colour looked? Make sure it's a photo with correct white balance, if you can ascertain it.

Once you've done one of those things, we can talk about the neutral tones you like.

@kellyjonesphoto?

@Glynda horsfall, where are you?

Whoa. No no no no no. NEVER crop during editing, for ANY reason. https://www.damiensymonds.net/2010/01/straightening-horizons.html

Well, the absolutely most important step is to NOT have any patches of light in the background. So if you don't have any suitable photos without light in the background, you'll need to carefully edit the background in this photo.

No, a screenshot isn't fair play. Please read the posting guidelines in the "How to achieve" forum.

Absolutely.

Make sure you copy my numbers EXACTLY. If you get even one of them in the wrong position, the colour result will be vastly different.

As I'm sure you know, I'm a big fan of photo filters to fix casts. Have you read this article? The best answer I can give is "Show me". The more you post, the more I can help you identify and fix the casts, and the better you'll get at identifying and fixing them yourself.

It's very simple. Just this Channel Mixer layer: Red +100, 0, 0, +10 Green +93, 0, 0, 0 Blue 0, +100, 0, 0 Then mask it on to the background. You'll be SO pleased to see that you don't need any precision at all around her hair - just let your mask blend gently into the edge of her hair. The same with her shirt. The only place you'll need precision masking is around her face. Make sure you zoom in, and use the Shift key. Once you've done it very accurately around the edge, switch to a 10% opacity brush, at a bigger size, and gently mask onto her skin a bit, to remove the pink cast that's on the side of her face.

How about this?

I have to go out to do grocery shopping now. I'll check in when I get back.

If that's not the right shade of yellow, let me know how it should look.

How would this be?

No, that shit is NEVER the best method. Give me a few minutes ...

What? NO!!!!!!! You don't need new prints. The prints you already have are fine.

How's the print match now?

I'm aware of the change of interface (no, you don't have to do anything different) but not of the new values. Can you enlighten me?

At what point in the process is that popup appearing?

Ok, you didn't mention HDR in your original post, but it doesn't change anything. Please PLEASE don't wait too long to learn to do this properly. Ok, so this is where the BS is most evident. You've probably spotted it yourself. Jpeg files are 8-bit. And once data is 8-bit, it can never be genuine 16-bit again. So for your software (PTGUI) to tell you that it has magically turned your 8-bit jpegs into a 16-bit tiff is nonsense, of course. The Tiff part is a good idea, but the 16-bit part is just big-noting itself. Is the tiff file layered?